#1
Ok so I am building a cabinet and to go with either a vox ac4tvh or a epi valve junior head. The cabinet will be 15 tall, 17 wide and 13 deep. I plan on using this for clean sounds and for british overdrive. I use an SG and was planning on using a open back design on the cabinet with an eminence redcoat governor speaker. Any advice on building this, I am very good at woodworking but want to know if the speaker will work with the amp seeing as it is rated at 75watt RMS for an overdrive and if this will set up for the sound i am lokoing for. Also this must have a good amount of bass to the sound but not just droning but i want it to have high Db lows. Also where to get the pieces to make speaker cable to 1/4inch female plug
#2
I hope you get some help with this...I was trying to get some help, too (I'm trying to build a 2x10), but people act like they don't want to lend advice for that kind of thing. Maybe I just caught UGers on a bad day? I don't know.
#3
If you are building an open back cab the dimensions aren't as critical but you will limit the bass which will roll off from quite a high frequency. To get the bass you need to stop the air from the back of the speaker reaching the front which means a sealed cab. If you like the sound of an open cab that's fine, what you are hearing isn't technically deep bass but high bass/lower mids but it's still the sound you like.
#4
Quote by Sid&Nancy
I hope you get some help with this...I was trying to get some help, too (I'm trying to build a 2x10), but people act like they don't want to lend advice for that kind of thing. Maybe I just caught UGers on a bad day? I don't know.

Hmm... Does this seem familiar?

When you call people, "...really ****ing stupid" don't expect to get any help.

cmc5890, listen to Phil Starr. He is the god of speakers, serious.
I prefer open back to closed. Closed back has too much punchy bass to it in my opinion, I prefer a nice smooth bass sound and leave the deep bass sounds to the bassist.
The Female 1/4" jack can be found at any electronics store as well as the wire. You could probably even find the wire at an automobile parts store. It's not really worth having such a small order shipped in.
..I was watching my death.
#5
Thank you Phil and Tim. So do you all think it is ok to use the 75 watt speaker for a 5 watt amp? Also I want to get a bass that is high but smooth so I feel an open back would work better. As i said before any type of woodwork is no problem to me. Last thing, I have a banana plug to 1/4 male input cable would that work if i were to cut the banana clips off and just use the wire from them straight into plugging into the amp head? eg.
speaker----cable connected to speaker----->amp head insted of
speaker----cable---female 1/4----->amp head.
#6
The 75 watt speaker should do perfectly fine. You could probably put a 15 watt speaker in and it'd work.
The cable you described will work, although I reccomend using a 1/4" Female jack and a 1/4" speaker cable. The strain on the cable will most likely cause the solder joints to break making a nice tube amp have no load.
Instead of buying speaker cable, you could convert the banana plugs to a 1/4". I don't think banana plugs use solder in them, unless the ones I worked on were solderless.
You wouldn't have to cut the banana connector off, just unscrew the casing and it should be easy from there. You just need an allen key, unless your particular banana plugs use a screwdriver.
..I was watching my death.
#7
So I should just use speaker wire and wire that to a 1/4 female? And what is the best way to connect the wire to the 1/4 female and speaker, I can solder but not well is there a different way that works?
#8
Quote by timbit2006
Hmm... Does this seem familiar?

When you call people, "...really ****ing stupid" don't expect to get any help.

Maybe if you had read the rest of the thread, then you would understand why I said that. I was asking questions and a few people were posting things that had absolutely NOTHING to so with the thread at all.
#9
Ok comment war is totally not going to happen on a thread send pm's to solve this it will make you look like an ass if you continue here.
#10
I'm afraid you have to solder the cable. You really don't want a valve amp running open circuit if your cable accidentally disconnects. I've written a little about this on one of my guides http://www.ultimate-guitar.com/columns/gear_maintenance/a_guide_to_fixing_intermittent_faults.html but there are better guides on the internet and probably on UG. Take your time, practice on some old bits of wire and you'll be fine. If not get a mate or a repair shop to do it for you, it shouldn't be too dear.
#11
I would recommend making an open back cab and using a proper speaker wire. I;m not sure how the cable you are looking at is constructed, but the wrong wire can overheat and fail. In a pinch, regular electrical cord works perfectly. Cut the plug ends off and solder on your jacks.

As far as cabs, I recently did some experiments with cab builds using break away floors so I could try a couple "chamber sizes", and eventually converted both my home built cabs to open back. I found open back to be much better at low volumes. Closed back was boomy at low volume.

Even at high volumes (when the bass will tighten up), closed back requires some calculations to get a proper dimemsions for a particular speaker. I can tell you for sure adding a couple of inches depth had dramatic effect. Unless you dislike the sound of combos, you'll be fine with an open back cab.

That's my experience, anyway. I've got manufactured 4x12, 2x12, 1x15 w^ horns, plus a few I built, and this is my opinion.
#12
Quote by timbit2006
Hmm... Does this seem familiar?

When you call people, "...really ****ing stupid" don't expect to get any help.

cmc5890, listen to Phil Starr. He is the god of speakers, serious.
I prefer open back to closed. Closed back has too much punchy bass to it in my opinion, I prefer a nice smooth bass sound and leave the deep bass sounds to the bassist.
The Female 1/4" jack can be found at any electronics store as well as the wire. You could probably even find the wire at an automobile parts store. It's not really worth having such a small order shipped in.


I was just about to say the same to him!
07 Gibson Les Paul LE
06 Fender Mex Strat - SDJb Jr, duckbucker, lil 59
Floor
Cry Baby 95Q-> Digitech Whammy -> DD3 -> MXR Micro Amp-> TU 2
Loop
Holy Grail ->Boss Rc20 Loop Station
Amp
Laney GH50 with Zilla Fatboy 2x12 (celestion g12-65)
#13
Quote by cmc5890
Ok comment war is totally not going to happen on a thread send pm's to solve this it will make you look like an ass if you continue here.


Point taken, sorry

Good luck with the build
07 Gibson Les Paul LE
06 Fender Mex Strat - SDJb Jr, duckbucker, lil 59
Floor
Cry Baby 95Q-> Digitech Whammy -> DD3 -> MXR Micro Amp-> TU 2
Loop
Holy Grail ->Boss Rc20 Loop Station
Amp
Laney GH50 with Zilla Fatboy 2x12 (celestion g12-65)
#14
Ok building is going fantastic and am now at the stage of buidling my baffle and was wondering what thickness it should be my cab is 1'' pine with quarter-round at the front to make it look nice. The cab is sanded and ready to stain and I just need to make the baffle board. I can use 1'' ply, 1'' softwood or maybe 3/4'' ply. that is about all I've got right now. This should be done on friday ro saturday and I will upload pictures of it when I'm done.
#15
Personally I'd go with the 3/4" plywood. The baffle isn't supporting any considerable amount of weight, just a speaker. It's too small to break anyways.
The 1" plywood will work. It really just comes down to weight in the end.

Are you recessing the speaker into the baffle?
Or is it a flat-mount speaker?

Also when making the baffle and grille cloth, keep in mind that some speaker surrounds extrude further than the speaker frame. You definately don't want anything touching the front of your speaker.
..I was watching my death.
#16
The speaker will be mounted right to the back of the baffle but weight will not be an issue as this will be mostly at home might move just to take to my uncles studio but that's about it for moving it.
#17
will 18 gauge speaker wire work for wiring the speaker to the input jack?
#18
18 Gauge speaker cable will work. Regular electric cable will work as well, providing it isn't too thin. Speaker cable is almost the same as electric cable albeit a few differences such as aesthetics, insulation and durability.
..I was watching my death.
#20
Hopefully you haven't completed the baffle yet. I would go with 1" ply. Use voidless Baltic Birch to prevent any resonances from the voids.

As for the comments regarding open/sealed, I can assure you that the only real difference is the finished size. When going with sealed, you are constrained by the characteristics of the speakers themselves and the desired bass rolloff frequency. With open back, you may get a slightly different bass response, but your cabinet can be any size you want. You can carefully EQ after and get an almost identical sound. My home-made open back 2x12 is loaded with Eminence Private Jacks, and the bass response could in no way be characterized as loose, unfocused, or weak.
Various Strats
PRS SC245 (2007)
Fessenden SD-10 pedal steel
Koch Studiotone XL
Mesa Boogie Express 5:25+
1958 National lap steel
Eastman El Rey 1
#21
will be starting the baffle tomorrow but might use the ply and that ply does have one finished side to it as well. but i found a quite large hardwood 1'' board that i could use no clue what it is made of though....