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#41
well I'm selling off my 5 string bass, bass amp, all my old fx units and pedals, my old amp, my electro-acoustic, my classical, pretty much everything except my cables and my two Ibbys (RG320 and AF75) to buy a new setup and contribute to the build
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#43
I am waiting for... clamps. Wood arrived last week though.





Also done some concept sketches of what will hopefully be my "signature" headstock, i.e. the one I will put on all my builds, I'll post that when I've got it digitised.
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#44
Oh, also decided against converting the strat although I am gonna keep it for when I want to try scalloping, instead buying some affinity tele bits and gonna make up a pickguard to replace the control panel so I can do some serious wiring on it and upgrade other bits and pieces. Already ordered the DiMarzios for it and designed the wiring diagram and when this build is finished ill make a tele body and neck and do a transplant of the good stuff into the new guitar.
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#46
a) I don't have the bits to make your work around
b) I'm not ordering clamps, I'm borrowing them off an old band mate who is a chippy
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#49
Just ordered the neck, from Hong Kong via eBay, it's cheap but has a vine inlay running all up the neck is the right radius and scale and my wife likes it which I guess with the most important thing. It also comes full paddle with scarf joint angle which is bonus

Pics when it arrives
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#52
cheers... my new router is on order so I should actually get into the workshop soon to actually get some work done
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#53
Finally getting some stuff done on this! Got myself some hardware in, will be picking up some MDF for a routing template early in the week. Heading out to the workshop this afternoon to plane up the pieces and glue the body together. And hopefully I'll get the headstock cut and shaped. I'll get a pic of the neck for you in just a sec too.

Here's the body and hardware so far:


And here's the pre-bought neck:
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#55
I get all my supplies from there and all my pickups

Although for the moment this one will be using the older pups out my les paul to cut costs a bit so I can build her an amp too.
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#57
Neck is nice and pretty good for Chinese >.<

Seems I'm not going out to the workshop today. Buffy box set trumps 40min walk across town
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#59
Well, since my last post the hardwood killed my baby DIY use power planer (grrr) which meant I dropped £200 on a new one, proper industrial trade use one though so should last me forever. Also started joining the body pieces and got some free plywood so I've made up the template. Pics tomorrow as I'm trying to keep things hidden from my wife and she's currently around my workshop.
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#60
hey, turns out that despite my supplier running my ash through the thicknesser to the "same thickness" as the mahogany it really isn't so it stands slightly pround on the back face

my question is what's the best way to level it out? I was thinking hand plane and finish off with an orbital sander, welcome any other suggestions though :p
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#61
Picture progress! Smoothed and levelled the body out, really getting the hang of my smoothing plane despite the fact it's a cheap chinese POS, the mahogany experienced a little tearout from the plane but not going to worry about it as large amounts of it is getting cut off or bevelled so going to worry about smooth post shaping.



here's the template, got some sketching done on it just to give me some basic idea of what I'm doing



Decided I'm gonna be brave and attempt an angled neck pocket by making the template on a long piece of mdf and propping the end up the correct amount, although it may prove no more difficult than recessing the TOM
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#63
I'll use trigonometry but yeh :p
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#64
Got the body rough cut today, got the template fitted at got set up to start routing



Then.... Much cursing



The router sat on one of the clamps slightly, took a chunk out my template too! It happened in just about the only place I could get over it, the bevel will cover the big chunk and the jack plate is going on the rest but still pretty pissed off.

Half the issue is that I can't really see what I'm doing so going to get some 1/2" ply and build a router table into my bench before I do any more work on it
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#65
oh noes!
Call me Chris
Quote by jimihendrix6699
had a blast until the person in front of me whipped out his dick and started pissing all over the floor..

Ducks and guitars or fish and guitars. I lead a simple existence
#66
I'll get over it, any more progress going to be delayed for at least a week
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#67
Ahh...the joys of routing. Out of curiosity, which direction were you feeding the router. I found out (rather too late) that it can make a massive difference to the quality of cut. And then I found stuff like this - http://www.dekalbsaw.com/bitkickback.html - so now I have a small brain seizure every time I start cutting, trying to work out which way I'm supposed to be going.
#68
The correct way :p I'm an apprentice joiner, I have been taught how to rout, just ****ed it up

But the correct way pulls the end grain away from the remaining wood, so it's splitting further up than the template edge and giving me tear out which means I need to do it with the bit the other way up ideally, hence the router table
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#69
From what I've seen, I honestly didn't think for a minute that you wouldn't be. Doing it the right way, that is.

Thinking laterally, and being the impatient type, you could flip the body over and get the same effect as using a table. Not sure what you'd do about following the template though. But then the same goes for using a table.

I think I'll stop trying to be helpful now. >_<
#71
Would need another bit, one that would do the full body depth at once, my bottom bearing bits are all 3/4" or 1" cutting length.
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#72
The biggest problem there is the depth of cut, once you cut it out, you should really be sanding it close to the line first, I try to have about only a few mm left before I rout. Never take off more than half the bit thickness in a single pass either
________________________________________

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#73
I was trying not to, but was hard to see using the router upright, the cutter in using is actually a chunky 19mm diameter so really not much chance of taking off more than half the width. I'm confident I'll have more joy in a router table situation, also got some 12,7x50mm bottom bearing flush cutter bits on order.

And I'm getting to that research for you in just a bit blue :p
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#74
Quote by GABarrie
Would need another bit, one that would do the full body depth at once, my bottom bearing bits are all 3/4" or 1" cutting length.

How come you need to do the whole depth at once?
#75
Because the uncut bit gets in the way if I'm cutting from that side?
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#76
Quote by GABarrie
Because the uncut bit gets in the way if I'm cutting from that side?

Aahh
#77
But like I said got some hits on order, they're cheap silverline ones but I got two so should get me through this project, then I might invest in a nice 3 flute spiral template bit... If I can find £120
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#78
well.... I've been severly remiss with pictures here so I thought I'd provide some updates, mostly ready now, finish has changed from trans purple to natural and the top bevel has been replaced with a roundover like the back (both my wife's request).

Here's the body and neck as they are with most of the holes filled.


And all the neccessary hardware to test alignment.


All ready to put strings on.


Alignment at roughly the 5th fret.


And alignment at the neck pickup.


The alignment is pretty good for my first try and a freehand neck pocket template. And as my wife isn't likely to be doing anything beyond about the 7th fret (basic chords) for quite some time I am happy with it.

Got some drilling to do for the controls, and to rout the recess for the cavity cover which I will then need to cut to shape. But then I'm ready for finishing so will need to get some truoil in.
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#80
I needed to knock the ferrules in with something and didn't want to damage my fret hammer :P

I've actually filled the gaps at the bottom of the neck pocket now too, look closely you'll see where the router knocked out the divide between the neck pocket and the pickup rout which in those picks is filled with strip wood, the gaps have since been filled in with superglue and sawdust
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