#1
Finally decided to upgrade from my current acoustic guitar which is a Yamaha FG700S. Been playin for 5 years and want something that sounds much better and is for a more advanced player. I play a lot of pop music (John Mayer, Jason Mraz) , but I also like to finger pick and hybrid pick. I do not know much at all about acoustic guitars, so what would you guys recommend that is around $500?
#2
i just picked up a recording king acoustic, i am extremely happy. they are made in china, but seem to be great product for the price, you just have to find a shop that carries them.
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#4
Used taylor 110ce. Or if only new guitars, tankamine.
Last edited by gregs1020 at Jun 14, 2011,
#6
Fender has some nice acoustics.
Guitars: Fender FSR Standard Strat, Squire Affinity Strat, Epiphone Nighthawk
Amps: Vox AC15C1, Roland Cube 15x, Peavey KB-1
Pedals: Digitech RP355, HD500, Joyo AC-Tone, EHX Soul Food
Last edited by kutless999 at Jun 15, 2011,
#7
Quote by ninthfret
thanks guys. any other suggestions?

yes, play the dean and fenders side by side with the taylor and tankamine.
#8
I was just looking at those taylor 110s and was wondering which was better, and does the 110ce unplugged not sound as good as the 110?
#9
they're very similar. it just depends on if you'd use the electronics or not really.

if you wouldn't use the electronics or cutaway, a 110 is a very nice sounding guitar. if you can score a used DN3 (taylor), that's a nice dreadnaut as well.
#10
the 110 with out the cutaway doesn't come with electronics?
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#12
Epiphone Masterbilt AJ-500M or DR-500M are all-solid wood and sound amazing for their super low prices!
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#13
Quote by 1500 meanstreak
Epiphone Masterbilt AJ-500M or DR-500M are all-solid wood and sound amazing for their super low prices!



yes I agree the masterbilt series is amazing. dont forget the EF500 series.
#14
I'd get something used that has solid wood back and sides and sounds good. For $500 it shouldn't be too tough but you will have to shop around a bit. No point getting a laminated instrument that won't last forever if you can get a solid wood instrument that can last forever.

Just be sure to check the frets and see that they are not too warn, look for cracks, and listen for buzzing when you play.
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#15
an all solid blueridge or recording king, or maybe a masterbilt. at $500 or less, that means no cutaway or electronics unless you want to go with laminate back and sides.
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#16
Quote by CorduroyEW
I'd get something used that has solid wood back and sides and sounds good. For $500 it shouldn't be too tough but you will have to shop around a bit. No point getting a laminated instrument that won't last forever if you can get a solid wood instrument that can last forever.

Just be sure to check the frets and see that they are not too warn, look for cracks, and listen for buzzing when you play.


the kind of wood that is used does not affect the durability of the guitar. I have a fender acoustic guitar from around 76 I believe. it is all laminated and it is in better condition than some of the guitars I have seen other people use, regardless whether it is solid or not.
#17
Quote by fifer
the kind of wood that is used does not affect the durability of the guitar. I have a fender acoustic guitar from around 76 I believe. it is all laminated and it is in better condition than some of the guitars I have seen other people use, regardless whether it is solid or not.

I believe he was referring to the fact that the OP may be satisfied for longer with an all-solid guitar as opposed to a partially or fully laminate guitar. He wasn't referring to the durability at all. It's pretty common sense that a guitar composed partly or completely of laminate will last much longer (physically) than an all-solid guitar.
Acoustics:
1994 Seagull SM6
2007 Takamine G5013SVFT

Electrics:
2008 Epiphone Les Paul Standard Plain Top (Cherryburst)
1964 Gibson Melody Maker D (DC)

Amps:
Traynor YGL-1

Pedals
MXR Distortion III (C4 Modded)
#19
Glue joints eventually fail. When a joint fail it usually mean steaming the suspect joint to completely disconnect whatever was glued on and then cleaning the joint and regluing. If, for example, you have to reset a neck then that means you have to steam it off. If you steam off the neck of a laminate body guitar then you run a very high risk of steaming the laminated layers apart.

Laminated guitars are actually more rugged than solid guitars because the laminates don't split. Laminated guitars are also more likely to be unfixable if something does go wrong.

Thats what I meant.
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