#1
Just got a squier deluxe strat with twin pivot floating trem... well i've heard bad things bout it, tuning problems etc...


Right, i tuned by ear most times, cos the vox mini3 tuning lights don't work for me, and i busted high E string. The ball end side broke and the bridge was lifted up from the bottom. As i wasn't able to assemble it, i took it to a guitar store n the tech told me that happens alot with these kind of bridges blah blah blah, ppl cannot manage to mount it cos u need to balance them one by one like a steelyard balance, n the strings must be doin a force of 36 kg in both bridge n neck, long story..
Costed me 50 euros, cos it takes a while for mountin it n he adjusted n set up the guitar for me, thats what he said.. today high e string broke again thankfully from the neck and the bridge didn't move. Anyways, the tech didn't place the bridge correctly and i can't insert the whammy bar. He also told me that squier just assembles the guitar in their asian factory n for example the bridge saddles come sticked to the body when they should be like lifted.


Meh it feels weak, i'm afraid of tuning it or playin hard for not breaking it, with all the money i've spent in repairs i could've got a higher end squier or an ibanez.
Shall i purchase another bridge plate n gear, like those branded wilkinson or am i goin to get used to this delicate system..

Greetings
Last edited by KBJAG at Jun 25, 2011,
#2
Greetings

wow...that was a lot....maybe try separating your issues with paragraphs or 1) 2) 3)

Squiers are decent guitars. Yes, most of them are not 'set up' from the factory. My fear is that your guitar was not set up properly and you have a 'tech' that does not know how to set up a guitar.

Stretch your strings before tuning up all the way.
lubricate the nut with graphite.
make sure the saddles are bur free
strat trems are supposed to float (most of them)
get a real tuner
make a clip
repeat
enjoy
#3
Quote by 311ZOSOVHJH
Greetings

wow...that was a lot....maybe try separating your issues with paragraphs or 1) 2) 3)

Squiers are decent guitars. Yes, most of them are not 'set up' from the factory. My fear is that your guitar was not set up properly and you have a 'tech' that does not know how to set up a guitar.

Stretch your strings before tuning up all the way.
lubricate the nut with graphite.
make sure the saddles are bur free
strat trems are supposed to float (most of them)
get a real tuner
make a clip
repeat
enjoy


I phoned the guy n he told me that he can fix the whammy bar hole issue anytime i want. Well i hope this time is free, when he told me "50 euros cos assemblin n adjustment", it was like FACEPLANT. Was gonna tell him wat was he on about, the guitar still buzzes a bit and he argued that if i take it to a luthier it'll cost 3 times more, luthiers steal even more.. I'm considering playin for a while with missing high E just for givin my pocket a rest.

How long does a string normally last (specially the thin ones) and whats the goal of lubricatin the nut with graphite?

Thanks
#4
I'm not sure what your problem is with the bridge lifting. But the bridge floats when the tension of the springs are correctly adjusted. When the guitar is tuned correctly the strings exert a specific tension. You adjust the springs on the back in the cavity (behind a cover) to get the bridge to float at the correct angle.

When you string up the instrument you do not need to worry about the position of the bridge. As you bring all the strings up to tension the bridge will lift and float at the same angle. Any difference will be related to the difference in string type or size. If the bridge doesn't float at the correct angle due to a string change then tweak the springs in the back.

The nut is lubricated so that the strings slide over it without sticking when tuning or using the tremolo. Strings normally last long enough to start sounding dead. If they break you're a maniac bender with strong fingers, you have a spot on the saddle damaging the string, or you've got crappy strings. BTW, I buy the cheap $2 packs from Musicians Friend and they hardly ever break.

If the string break right where it rides on the saddle then you've got a spot on the saddle damaging the string.
Last edited by fly135 at Jun 25, 2011,
#5
Quote by fly135
I'm no sure what you problem is with the bridge lifting. But the bridge floats when the tension of the springs are correctly adjusted. When the guitar is tuned correctly the strings exert a specific tension. You adjust the springs on the back in the cavity (behind a cover) to get the bridge to float at the correct angle.

When you string up the instrument you do not need to worry about the position of the bridge. As you bring all the strings up to tension the bridge will lift and float at the same angle. Any difference will be related to the difference in string type or size. If the bridge doesn't float at the correct angle due to a string change then tweak the springs in the back.

The nut is lubricated so that the strings slide over it without sticking when tuning or using the tremolo.


The bridge is not lifted anymore, it came with 2 springs, but the guy put a 3rd one. The bridge is not perfectly placed so i can't insert the whammy bar. The main problem is that it feels weak, high E keeps breaking and the guitar loses tune after like 20 mins of playing..

I'm rly afraid of messing around as the "adjustment" or setup made by the tech, now inexistent, costed 50 euros
Last edited by KBJAG at Jun 25, 2011,
#6
Don't be afraid. The trem is very simple and hardly needs a pro to set it up. I don't really understand what you are saying about not being able to insert the bar. Can you post a picture? If the string keeps breaking at the bridge and the guitar is new I would take it back to where you purchased it and have them fix the bad saddle.

Another thing you should consider is if you are tuning the high e an octave too high. This would cause it to break and cause the bridge to pull up. Post pics of your problem.
#7
Squier saddles are extremely poor, so my first action would be to replace the saddles. That'll solve most of your string breaking and tuning stability issues. You can get the Steel saddles or you can get Graphtech saddles like I have, but you have to make sure they are "import Strat" spaced saddles.

Also, how high is the base of the trem plate sitting from the base of the body? When fully floating, a Strat trem should be less than 3-4 mm off the body, with a 2 point style, it's a little bit higher cause they aren't designed to ever sit flush against the body, but you shouldn't have very much travel pulling up on the arm, just very little, the majority of your travel should be forward, or pushing down.
#8
Quote by fly135
Don't be afraid. The trem is very simple and hardly needs a pro to set it up. I don't really understand what you are saying about not being able to insert the bar. Can you post a picture? If the string keeps breaking at the bridge and the guitar is new I would take it back to where you purchased it and have them fix the bad saddle.

Another thing you should consider is if you are tuning the high e an octave too high. This would cause it to break and cause the bridge to pull up. Post pics of your problem.


A little part of the bridge plate is slightly covering the hole of the bar n i cannot screw it in. And take it where i purchased it is not an option as i purchased it thru internet n the site is in France...

About the high E, i busted it twice by following my vox mini3 tuner instructions, which are dead wrong. 1st time it broke from the ball end and bridge lifted up from the bottom, now it broke from the neck n evrything is ok.

In reply to ethan n fly135, i'll post some pics of the bridge n saddles asap, c7 camera suxs n my digi one is out of battery.

Thanks
Last edited by KBJAG at Jun 25, 2011,