#1
Hey guys!

I've recently purchased a Jackson RR3 and since then I haven't even managed to

tune it!!!!

I already know how to tune it!

they told me to:

1. loosen the nut lockers!

2.tune the guitar with tuners!

3. tighten the nut lockers!

4. then the tuning changes a little bit

5. final tuning should be done with fine tuners!!!

But I've done this and I get no result!

when I tune 6th and 5th to the correct pitch I go to 4th and 3rd and I tune them

but when I check back the 6th and 5th I see that they're out of tune again!!!!!!!!!!!

and I've realized that my floydrose has come up a lot! what's the reason for this?

how can I put it back into the right angle????

thanks guys!
Last edited by LORDLUCIFER at Jun 27, 2011,
#2
Yeah, Floyd's are a lot more involved than that. There are countless videos on youtube that are extremely helpful. Basically, you have to match the tension on the springs in the back to the tension your strings put on the bridge.

EDIT:

Here, this should help.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=s_qLi_cWQLc
Kodiak bears make awesome bandmates.

Quote by wolvenrick
no seriously 7x NGD is epicness i declare you the winner of all NGD's on UG never have i seen this xD
Last edited by kaosxrocker at Jun 27, 2011,
#3
Geez... Learn some more first. You have to adjust the springs in the back as well to compensate for the rising bridge. It's physics: the strings and springs have their own tension, and if those are the same/in the right ratio, your bridge will sit normally and your strings will be good. If you tune it, the tension for those strings goes, for instance, up. To compensate for this, and to try to keep the bridge right, your other strings will go down in pitch.

When you tune back and forth to highten up the note of ALL the strings, the strings will have more tension compared to the springs, so your bridge will rise. If you then tighten the springs, they will have more tension, and the bridge will go down. However, in the same process, you will also change the tension, and thus note, of the strings. Which makes you have to adjust the springs again ---EDIT: you will have to adjust the strings first of course, they've detuned, and your bridge is in the right angle for that moment). Getting it right can be a pain in the ass, but once you know how it works, it's not as hard anymore. Just try what I just said.
Gear:
Schecter Damien Elite FR CRED
Ibanez RG7321FM w/ DiMarzio Bridge pickup
Roland CUBE 40XL
Digitech RP355

Quote by zgr0826
Banned because Raep = Me Gusta




ಠ_ಠ
Last edited by boeman1995 at Jun 27, 2011,
#4
Quote by boeman1995
Geez... Learn some more first. You have to adjust the springs in the back as well to compensate for the rising bridge. It's physics: the strings and springs have their own tension, and if those are the same/in the right ratio, your bridge will sit normally and your strings will be good. If you tune it, the tension for those strings goes, for instance, up. To compensate for this, and to try to keep the bridge right, your other strings will go down in pitch.

When you tune back and forth to highten up the note of ALL the strings, the strings will have more tension compared to the springs, so your bridge will rise. If you then tighten the springs, they will have more tension, and the bridge will go down. However, in the same process, you will also change the tension, and thus note, of the strings. Which makes you have to adjust the springs again ---EDIT: you will have to adjust the strings first of course, they've detuned, and your bridge is in the right angle for that moment). Getting it right can be a pain in the ass, but once you know how it works, it's not as hard anymore. Just try what I just said.


Many many thanks mate. .. but I'm way dummier that you may think!

could you make it as a step-by-step process?

Correct me if I'm wrong!

so now that my guitar is not in tune and my bridge has raised!

I should:

1.Adjust the springs to cause the bridge go down

2.start tuning with machine heads

3.start fine tuning

????



Yeah, Floyd's are a lot more involved than that. There are countless videos on youtube that are extremely helpful. Basically, you have to match the tension on the springs in the back to the tension your strings put on the bridge.

EDIT:

Here, this should help.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=s_qLi_cWQLc


thanks in advance.

I've watched this video and some others and they were of great help!

but they confused me at some parts!

some said that the whammy bar shouldn't be removed and some removed it!!

who is right?
#5
Quote by LORDLUCIFER
Many many thanks mate. .. but I'm way dummier that you may think!

could you make it as a step-by-step process?

Correct me if I'm wrong!

so now that my guitar is not in tune and my bridge has raised!

I should:

1.Adjust the springs to cause the bridge go down

2.start tuning with machine heads

3.start fine tuning

????



Okay. You've gotten the bridge down or up, according to what it should be doing, and you've tuned the strings to their right tuning (All of them is best sou you know how much the bridge is still off, don't have to tune them all exactly right tho).

Scratch 3, don't need that yet.

3.2: Look how much the bridge has moved, and move the springs a bit accordingly. Do NOT put the bridge at the right angle again! That's useless because your strings will be off again, and when tuning, the bridge will only change again, which is not what you want. Take it slowly. Move the springs a bit, see how it affects tuning, and then retune. Repeat the process of tuning and spring adjustment until A) the bridge if flush against the body (parallel to) and B) all the strings are tuned pretty much correctly. Then you tighten the lockin nuts, and start finetuning until they're all right.


Hope that helps
Gear:
Schecter Damien Elite FR CRED
Ibanez RG7321FM w/ DiMarzio Bridge pickup
Roland CUBE 40XL
Digitech RP355

Quote by zgr0826
Banned because Raep = Me Gusta




ಠ_ಠ
Last edited by boeman1995 at Jun 27, 2011,
#7
Quote by LORDLUCIFER

some said that the whammy bar shouldn't be removed and some removed it!!

who is right?


It really doesn't matter. I've tuned it both ways with equal accuracy. It's just a preference thing.
Kodiak bears make awesome bandmates.

Quote by wolvenrick
no seriously 7x NGD is epicness i declare you the winner of all NGD's on UG never have i seen this xD
#8
Quote by boeman1995
Okay. You've gotten the bridge down or up, according to what it should be doing, and you've tuned the strings to their right tuning (All of them is best sou you know how much the bridge is still off, don't have to tune them all exactly right tho).

Scratch 3, don't need that yet.

3.2: Look how much the bridge has moved, and move the springs a bit accordingly. Do NOT put the bridge at the right angle again! That's useless because your strings will be off again, and when tuning, the bridge will only change again, which is not what you want. Take it slowly. Move the springs a bit, see how it affects tuning, and then retune. Repeat the process of tuning and spring adjustment until A) the bridge if flush against the body (parallel to) and B) all the strings are tuned pretty much correctly. Then you tighten the lockin nuts, and start finetuning until they're all right.


Hope that helps



Thanks in advance dude.
I followed your instruction and now my axe is in perfect tuning!

but the floydrose:





and my springs can't be tighter than this

#9
What string gauge is on, and what tuning are you in? It might be trying to tune too high with thin strings, so your bridge pulls up like that with high tunings. Either get a new spring in, or get thinner strings (last option ONLY if you have thick strings).

Also, you're not a lot better off like that with the bridge because it will still play shitty and it's not good for your bridge either, and it will go outof tune more easily.
Gear:
Schecter Damien Elite FR CRED
Ibanez RG7321FM w/ DiMarzio Bridge pickup
Roland CUBE 40XL
Digitech RP355

Quote by zgr0826
Banned because Raep = Me Gusta




ಠ_ಠ
#10
I'm sure the springs can be tightened.

It's a battle between string tension and spring tension. Right now, the string tension is too high.
Tighten the springs to counter it.
Woffelz

Twitter
Youtube
Tumblr

Ibanez RG2550Z/SRX430
Alesis Core 1
BIAS FX


I'm a student. I've got no time or space for an amp!
#11
Quote by Woffelz
I'm sure the springs can be tightened.

It's a battle between string tension and spring tension. Right now, the string tension is too high.
Tighten the springs to counter it.

The problem is he already tightened them to the max, they can't go a lot further, at least not that it is of any use...
Gear:
Schecter Damien Elite FR CRED
Ibanez RG7321FM w/ DiMarzio Bridge pickup
Roland CUBE 40XL
Digitech RP355

Quote by zgr0826
Banned because Raep = Me Gusta




ಠ_ಠ
#12
Stupid question for the TS...

Have you tuned the guitar an octave high? So for standard tuning it would be E3 (normally fretted on the 12th fret) on the low E not E2. That could explain the problem with your Floyd, if the bridge was parallel before you retuned.
#13
Quote by GhettoLimey
Stupid question for the TS...

Have you tuned the guitar an octave high? So for standard tuning it would be E3 (normally fretted on the 12th fret) on the low E not E2. That could explain the problem with your Floyd, if the bridge was parallel before you retuned.

+1

Might wanna record a little clip or something?
Gear:
Schecter Damien Elite FR CRED
Ibanez RG7321FM w/ DiMarzio Bridge pickup
Roland CUBE 40XL
Digitech RP355

Quote by zgr0826
Banned because Raep = Me Gusta




ಠ_ಠ
#15
I think we need to determine that the guitar is tuned to correct pitch before we go messing with the tension on the Floyd. That's one hell of an unlevel bridge for the guitar to now be "in tune" if it was even remotely playable before tuning without feeling like you're playing a bunch of rubber bands and sounding like a bull farting through a megaphone.
#16
Quote by rebar71


This that's everything you need to know the care and maintenance of your Floyd.

Once you learn how things are done it's well worth the small investment in time a Floyd takes.

Once the initial setup is done it takes about the same amount of time to change strings on a Floyd as it does on a tune-o-matic.
Gear
Jackson DK2
Ibanez RGR320EX
Guild X82 Nova
Godin Seagull S6

Vox V847
Vox VT40+ / VFS5 VT


Quote by FatalGear41

Right now, there are six and a half billion people on earth who don't care what kind of tubes you have in your amplifier
#17
I agree with the above posts. A) Make sure it's in the right octave, and actually IS tuned correctly. B) If so, more spring(s). C) Start learning more about the Floyd for future problem avoidance.

I use a Floyd guitar and I succesfully switched from .10-.48 to .10-.60 strings, and tuned it to Drop G# correctly (coming from Drop C), and the Floyd is in the right position. Can't be that your Floyd is that weird...
Gear:
Schecter Damien Elite FR CRED
Ibanez RG7321FM w/ DiMarzio Bridge pickup
Roland CUBE 40XL
Digitech RP355

Quote by zgr0826
Banned because Raep = Me Gusta




ಠ_ಠ
#19
guys, thank you so so so much for your advices!


but guess what! I ****ed up!

I thought maybe I should change the strings!

and I purchased a new set of strings!

and removed the old strings!

but when I insert the tail of the string into the saddle and lock it with the wrench

and I go to the machine head and insert the strings into them, and start turning them

all of a sudden the string jumps out of the saddle!!!

I'm sure that I've firmly tightened that screw with the wrench but it still jumps out!

I've tried this a couple of times! and the same!

I'm really getting disappointed!
#20
eerm. EEERM. Lemmethink.

I guess you're overtightening then. What gauge do you use, and what tuning?
Gear:
Schecter Damien Elite FR CRED
Ibanez RG7321FM w/ DiMarzio Bridge pickup
Roland CUBE 40XL
Digitech RP355

Quote by zgr0826
Banned because Raep = Me Gusta




ಠ_ಠ
#21
Quote by boeman1995
eerm. EEERM. Lemmethink.

I guess you're overtightening then. What gauge do you use, and what tuning?


I've purchased medium gauge strings (9...)

and I use standard tuning!

you know when I loosen the screw below the saddle and I insert the string, it does not
go so deep!
but when I insert a little and I see that the string is not going deeper I tighten it and

it goes deeper!!!!

and when I see that it's reached the maximum depth I tighten the screw!
#22
Take it to a shop.

Right now.

Have them show you how to do it.

My things:
Bowes SLx7
Washburn WG587
Washburn X40Pro
Washburn X50
Washburn HM24
Washburn WR150
Laguna LE200s
Arietta Acoustic
First Act
Valveking 112
VHT Deliverance

#23
Quote by valennic
Take it to a shop.

Right now.

Have them show you how to do it.

Agreed. This is beyond what I know, I'm guessing you either tuned way to high or there's something wrong with the guitar/springs.
Gear:
Schecter Damien Elite FR CRED
Ibanez RG7321FM w/ DiMarzio Bridge pickup
Roland CUBE 40XL
Digitech RP355

Quote by zgr0826
Banned because Raep = Me Gusta




ಠ_ಠ
#25
Quote by Woffelz
Maybe he just needs MORE SPRINGS!

That's pretty much the 5th one who said that (including me), but he's not listening. Also, if in standard tuning, with .09 as thinnest string, and 3 springs in the back, of which 2 are cross, how can the bridge still be ****ed up like that? Maybe the springs are weak and their strength is gone, but I don't think so, so I'm gonna go with taking it to a shop.
Gear:
Schecter Damien Elite FR CRED
Ibanez RG7321FM w/ DiMarzio Bridge pickup
Roland CUBE 40XL
Digitech RP355

Quote by zgr0826
Banned because Raep = Me Gusta




ಠ_ಠ
#26
Quote by LORDLUCIFER
guys, thank you so so so much for your advices!


but guess what! I ****ed up!

I thought maybe I should change the strings!

and I purchased a new set of strings!

and removed the old strings!

but when I insert the tail of the string into the saddle and lock it with the wrench

and I go to the machine head and insert the strings into them, and start turning them

all of a sudden the string jumps out of the saddle!!!

I'm sure that I've firmly tightened that screw with the wrench but it still jumps out!

I've tried this a couple of times! and the same!

I'm really getting disappointed!


Firstly, I agree with them. Take it to a shop before it's too late.

Secondly, it could be because of the way you're putting it into the saddle. That happened to me quite a few times as well. When you put the string in and tighten the saddle, pull up on the strings and see if they don't just come out, and make sure several times the screw is as far in as it can with the string there. If this doesn't work, God help you.
#27
guys thanks again.

but those who run music stores here are even dummier than me!

they don't know even have the slightest clue about the existence of floydrose bridges!

all they know is acoutsic and classical guitars and pop music!!!

==========================================================

by the way!

I have changed the strings!

Yep it was my fault! i did not tighten the screw enough! ( maybe I was scared to tighten it )


and the floydrose has raised again!

so how many springs should I add??

2 are enough?
#28
If your location is accurate I'm not surprised on the local guitar repair places...

So let's get this straight, as of right now, you're in tune (according to your tuner), you're Floyd is at about a 40 degree angle towards the neck, you have 9-42 strings on it in standard tuning.

Ok so does your low E sound like this...
http://guitar.about.com/library/media/audio/tuning_lowE.mp3

If it doesn't (and in all honesty I believe it will be higher), then you need to detune to so that the Low E matches that tone. The tune the remaining strings so that they're in relative tune (and tuned according to your guitar tuner too). If you wonder why, then here's why, a guitar tuner will indicate correct pitch if a string is "in tune" or any multiple or fraction thereof. So on a tuner E0 through E9 will all read "in tune" to the guitar tuner as E. You want your Low E to be E2 or 88.41Hz.

If it does, then you need to re-level the bridge, add springs, or you could tighten the claw (Yes I know you think there's no more space, but there looks like a good 1/4 inch of tightening you can do, since the claw isn't pressed against the body of the guitar).

However... Since the guitar was reasonably in tune, and you didn't notice any problem with the level of the bridge before you retuned and subsequently changed the strings, I'm still sticking to my original theory that the fault lays between the guitar and chair.
#29
Quote by rebar71


This everything you need to know in easy step by step by the numbers instructions.
Gear
Jackson DK2
Ibanez RGR320EX
Guild X82 Nova
Godin Seagull S6

Vox V847
Vox VT40+ / VFS5 VT


Quote by FatalGear41

Right now, there are six and a half billion people on earth who don't care what kind of tubes you have in your amplifier
#30
Quote by GhettoLimey
If your location is accurate I'm not surprised on the local guitar repair places...

So let's get this straight, as of right now, you're in tune (according to your tuner), you're Floyd is at about a 40 degree angle towards the neck, you have 9-42 strings on it in standard tuning.

Ok so does your low E sound like this...
http://guitar.about.com/library/media/audio/tuning_lowE.mp3

If it doesn't (and in all honesty I believe it will be higher), then you need to detune to so that the Low E matches that tone. The tune the remaining strings so that they're in relative tune (and tuned according to your guitar tuner too). If you wonder why, then here's why, a guitar tuner will indicate correct pitch if a string is "in tune" or any multiple or fraction thereof. So on a tuner E0 through E9 will all read "in tune" to the guitar tuner as E. You want your Low E to be E2 or 88.41Hz.

If it does, then you need to re-level the bridge, add springs, or you could tighten the claw (Yes I know you think there's no more space, but there looks like a good 1/4 inch of tightening you can do, since the claw isn't pressed against the body of the guitar).

However... Since the guitar was reasonably in tune, and you didn't notice any problem with the level of the bridge before you retuned and subsequently changed the strings, I'm still sticking to my original theory that the fault lays between the guitar and chair.


many thanks mate!

I will give it a try!

to see if I can finally make it