#1
Hey Ultimate Guitarists,

I've been searching the net for a while and am unable to find a schematic for a kill switch in stomp box form that **doesn't** use a momentary switch. I have an old foot switch and was hoping to use the enclosure and 6-pin switch (the regular stomp box kind) that came with. I understand there is probably a thread somewhere on this but I have looked, and can't check the entire interwebs. I'm happy to be supplied with links to older threads!


Just a few things I need to get out of the way...

I'm not looking to modify my guitars and I don't want a planet waves kill switch lead. If you think a momentary kill switch is the way to go then I am all ears to advice and other ideas!

Thanks a bunch,

Teddy
#2
What are you wanting to achieve with the pedal? Do you want a Tom Morello/Buckethead style stutter, or do you want it to mute your amp while you switch guitars or something?

If you want to use it for effects, then a momentary switch is definitely what you want. With a latching switch, you'd have to push the switch one to kill the signal, then again to bring it back. Using a momentary switch, the signal is only cut out when your foot is on the switch.
#3
Thanks for the reply. Definitely the second option. No effects required. I want it to kill my signal on and off for between songs, in the middle of songs, tuning, rehearsing etc.
#4
Did you still want to use the effect, because if not just take out everything accept for the jacks and switch then wire the switch. Correct me if I am wrong but that should work. You can keep the battery in and add cool on-off lighting effects if you want with the leds!!

I agree with the above post, a momentary switch is way better and can easily be used on the pedal enclosure and is pretty cheap but this should work for you.
middle right is grounded

fixed*
Attachments:
kill switch pedal.png
Gear:
Gibson '61 SG (57 Classics)
Ibanez RG4EXFM1 (TB-6)
Gibson '08 Explorer (500T)
Soldano Avenger 100
No Name 4X12 w/ Texas Heat+V12
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Last edited by penguinguy34 at Jun 28, 2011,
#5
Ok, well thats not hard then. You can just use any killswitch schematic, just use a latching switch instead of a momentary one.

If you get an SPDT On-On switch, wire the input jack tip to the middle lug, output jack tip to one of the outside lugs, and connect the other outside lug to one of the jacks grounds.
#6
I don't want to have to keep my foot on the pedal though. I need the switch to cut my signal so I can change guitars etc. The enclosure I'm using has the 6-pin switch wired to a single lead which would go into an amp (i think it was a channel switch).

I'm just looking at your schematics, and its confusing me a bit!. Its my understanding that I will need 2x 1/4 mono jacks, which both have two points of contact for a wire, so shouldn't I be soldering 4 points to the switch?


I sound like a noob....
#8
one point on the jack is the active (tip) which runs the signal, the other is for grounding, so you only need to wire two wires to the switch

Hah, I'm kinda noobish at this too, I am going to post a new thread asking to see if my Volume pedal layout is right...so asking is way better than just guessing no matter what level!
Gear:
Gibson '61 SG (57 Classics)
Ibanez RG4EXFM1 (TB-6)
Gibson '08 Explorer (500T)
Soldano Avenger 100
No Name 4X12 w/ Texas Heat+V12
I Want More Stuff
Last edited by penguinguy34 at Jun 28, 2011,
#9
penguinguy34, he isn't modifying an existing pedal, and that diagram won't work either.

TS; I can whip you up a quick diagram if that'll help?
#12
Quote by funeralllllllll
don't most tuners allow you to cut the sound while they're active? :x


Yes, but then I'd have to go buy a pedal style tuner..
#13
Here's a diagram I made a while back, with the added bonus of an LED indicator.



EDIT: each of the 6 grey blocks represents a lug on the switch.

EDIT II: what tuner do you have?
Last edited by Mathamology at Jun 28, 2011,
#14


Here you go. With a 6 pole switch, you can just ignore the second column of 3 lugs, all they are is essentially 2 3 pole switches in one (assuming you're talking SPDT vs DPDT)
#15
Do you have this style of tuner? If so, I might suggest you use an A/B box instead of a killswitch; use the 'A' route for your normal guitar to amp signal, and the 'B' route going directly to the tuner. That way the sound is killed, and you're already directly running into your tuner.
#16
Quote by Mathamology
Here's a diagram I made a while back, with the added bonus of an LED indicator.

EDIT: each of the 6 grey blocks represents a lug on the switch.

EDIT II: what tuner do you have?



I just have one of those korg tuner/metronome ones. Haven't needed a pedal style tuner yet, as I usually use my ears on stage (actually a kill switch will make this hard wont it...)

Thanks Littlephil, Mathamology, and Penguinguy34! Exactly what I need... big, colourful, shiny pictures to make it easy :P
#17
Quote by Teddymasu
I just have one of those korg tuner/metronome ones. Haven't needed a pedal style tuner yet, as I usually use my ears on stage (actually a kill switch will make this hard wont it...)


Refer to my above post. And if you're relying on tuning by ear, you're gonna need to hear your guitar
#18
I know i miss read it, i thought i read you were using a stomp box rather than a box "style" which is why i used the 9 lug but could you explain why it wouldn't work. Aren't those to lugs used for the bypass when the switch is hit and then the two lugs below it are used for effects but since nothing is hooked up it would break the continuity and stop the sound when selected?
Gear:
Gibson '61 SG (57 Classics)
Ibanez RG4EXFM1 (TB-6)
Gibson '08 Explorer (500T)
Soldano Avenger 100
No Name 4X12 w/ Texas Heat+V12
I Want More Stuff
#19
Quote by Mathamology
Refer to my above post.


Yeah I have one of those. Not too good for stage, but its here and I didn't pay for it. I'm going to be buying/building an A/B box as well, as I'm using a JCM2000 and the clean isn't great. I looked into making an A/B (maybe A/B/Y) box with this enclosure but was told not to skimp on one due to ground loops and phase.

Down the line I'll need a pedal tuner, but for now the kill switch is a cheap (actually free because I have all the parts) option!
#20
Quote by penguinguy34
I know i miss read it, i thought i read you were using a stomp box rather than a box "style" which is why i used the 9 lug but could you explain why it wouldn't work. Aren't those to lugs used for the bypass when the switch is hit and then the two lugs below it are used for effects but since nothing is hooked up it would break the continuity and stop the sound when selected?

You didn't have anything connecting the input to the output. The way those switches work is the middle row of lugs is the 'common', and either of the rows above and below is connected to the middle. They work in columns, so there is no connection between columns unless you wire one in.

Here's a diagram of how they work;
#21
Oh, just needed a bridge wire between them, i drew a layout for a volume pedal with one and i don't know why i didn't include it here
Gear:
Gibson '61 SG (57 Classics)
Ibanez RG4EXFM1 (TB-6)
Gibson '08 Explorer (500T)
Soldano Avenger 100
No Name 4X12 w/ Texas Heat+V12
I Want More Stuff
#22
Quote by Mathamology
Here's a diagram I made a while back, with the added bonus of an LED indicator.

EDIT: each of the 6 grey blocks represents a lug on the switch.

EDIT II: what tuner do you have?



Hey Mathamology, is that orange rectangle between the LED and switch a resistor? If so what do I need to get? Can I leave that out without affecting functionality? I assume so.
#23
Quote by Teddymasu
Hey Mathamology, is that orange rectangle between the LED and switch a resistor? If so what do I need to get? Can I leave that out without affecting functionality? I assume so.


It is indeed a resistor; you should always run a resistor in series with an LED to account for voltage drop. Not really a biggie in a killswitch design like this, but it will also prelong the life of the LED itself.

The value depends on the LED itself; but for a typical 5mm red LED, something like 470 ohm should suffice.

To work out the value resistor you need, use a calculator like this one. If you're buying your components online, you should be able to find all the information you need on there.
Last edited by Mathamology at Jun 28, 2011,
#24
Quote by Teddymasu
Yeah I have one of those. Not too good for stage

kill switch

fair enough if you don't wanna spend the money but if you tune by ear a kill switch is going to pretty much stop that working out live, no? ;D

just sayin'