#1
Don't know much about them, and I'm looking to have my amps in a stereo set up in the studio and live.

What do you guys suggest?? How much cash we talking??
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Quote by Bladed-Vaults
*Bane voice* ahhh yes. The br00tz, I was born with it. Molded by it. I didnt know of the light until I was already a man.
#2
Easiest and cheapest pedal in the world to build.


I've never bought one because, well, they are the easiest and cheapest pedal in the world to build.
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#3
Wish I had taken that into more consideration before I bought mine...

But I have a Whirlwind A/B/Y that works fantastically.
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#4
Quote by Cathbard
Easiest and cheapest pedal in the world to build.


I've never bought one because, well, they are the easiest and cheapest pedal in the world to build.


NT

BE QUICK OR BE DEAD SON
#5
Well, if you gonna DIY it, I suggest putting DC power plug to it.. Those relays eat so much battery...

But well, if you buy it, Boss, Behringer etc sells these boxes.
And the price goes around 30 euros (around 45US$).
Last edited by Laterr at Jul 3, 2011,
#6
Quote by Laterr
Well, if you gonna DIY it, I suggest putting DC power plug to it.. Those relays eat so much battery...

But well, if you buy it, Boss, Behringer etc sells these boxes.
And the price goes around 30 euros (around 45US$).

No relays are needed. The circuit I posted there is simply two DPDT footswitches. The battery is there just to light the LED's - and I drew in a DC socket as well.
I place the two switches 2" apart so you can easily hit both at the same time or just one so you can use it as A/B/Y.
Thusly:
Gilchrist custom
Yamaha SBG500
Telecasters
Randall RM100 & RM20
Marshall JTM45 clone
Marshall JCM900 4102 (modded)
Marshall 18W clone
Fender 5F1 Champ clone
Atomic Amplifire
Marshall 1960A
Boss GT-100


Cathbard Amplification
My band
#8
So better off making one than buying?? Are the ones on the mrlet not good enough or jut not worth the cash??
Tom Anderson Guitarworks

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Friedman Amplification

Fractal Audio Systems


Quote by Bladed-Vaults
*Bane voice* ahhh yes. The br00tz, I was born with it. Molded by it. I didnt know of the light until I was already a man.
#10
Livewire Solutions ABY if you're not feelin the DIY thing.
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#11
Awesome, Cathbard can you give me a list of all the components for it?? This allows me to play both amps simultaneously yeah?? As well as individually??
Tom Anderson Guitarworks

Mayones Guitars

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Friedman Amplification

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Quote by Bladed-Vaults
*Bane voice* ahhh yes. The br00tz, I was born with it. Molded by it. I didnt know of the light until I was already a man.
#12
Quote by Cathbard
No relays are needed. The circuit I posted there is simply two DPDT footswitches. The battery is there just to light the LED's - and I drew in a DC socket as well.
I place the two switches 2" apart so you can easily hit both at the same time or just one so you can use it as A/B/Y.
Thusly:


Ah, sorry Cath. I took too quick view about there. And if you do this as Cath drew the schematic, you need following components.

2* 10kohm resistors
two different colored leds. ( not necessary, but you see which path signal goes) for example those red and green
2* 2DPDT switches
1* Jack /w Switch for input (This will prevent battery to run empty while not plugged)
2* Jacks for outputs
(DC socket)
Battery Clip
Some wire..
+ Some sort of metal box where to put all this.

They work individually when you press only 1 switch, and they work simultaneously when you hit 'em both.

Hope I wrote everything right there.
#13
Almost:
2 x DPDT footswitches
2 x 10k resistors
Red LED
Green LED
(or whatever colours you prefer)
3 x 1/4" phono jacks
DC socket with switch
Battery clip and holder
metal enclosure 4.5" x 3.5" x 1.25"
9V battery
Wire

You can use a switched input socket to cut the power when unplugged but I don't bother. If the LED's are off no current is being drawn. So when not in use just hit the switches until no LED's are lit.
Gilchrist custom
Yamaha SBG500
Telecasters
Randall RM100 & RM20
Marshall JTM45 clone
Marshall JCM900 4102 (modded)
Marshall 18W clone
Fender 5F1 Champ clone
Atomic Amplifire
Marshall 1960A
Boss GT-100


Cathbard Amplification
My band
Last edited by Cathbard at Jul 3, 2011,
#14
Quote by Cathbard
Almost:
2 x DPDT footswitches
2 x 10k resistors
Red LED
Green LED
(or whatever colours you prefer)
3 x 1/4" phono jacks
DC socket with switch
Battery clip and holder
metal enclosure 4.5" x 3.5" x 1.25"
9V battery
Wire


How long would your typical 9v battery last in this thing? Since it is only for the LEDs I'm sure it will last for a long time..
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#15
A very long time indeed. Should last for months, it's just two LED's and I chose 10k resistors so they are using the least possible current while still lighting up bright enough to see clearly.
As a bonus, even if the battery is dead the pedal will still work, the LED's just won't light up.
Gilchrist custom
Yamaha SBG500
Telecasters
Randall RM100 & RM20
Marshall JTM45 clone
Marshall JCM900 4102 (modded)
Marshall 18W clone
Fender 5F1 Champ clone
Atomic Amplifire
Marshall 1960A
Boss GT-100


Cathbard Amplification
My band
Last edited by Cathbard at Jul 3, 2011,
#16
Quote by Cathbard
A very long time indeed. Should last for months, it's just two LED's and I chose 10k resistors so they are using the least possible current while still lighting up bright enough to see clearly.
As a bonus, even if the battery is dead the pedal will still work, the LED's just won't light up.


Cool, been meaning to get one myself so I can finally use both my amps live, but wasn't sure what to get.
Squier Strat
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#17
I have two of them, a Boss LS-2 and a LiveWire ABY. The LiveWire cost $50.00 at GC and the Boss costs about $90.00 IIRC. The LiveWire will do the job for most applications, most I am sure I will never need. The Boss is a bit more flexible if you need a strange setup. Both are well made and functional.
Last edited by IbanezBossShred at Jul 3, 2011,
#18
shouldn't you lift the cathode instead of the anode when you switch tho?
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#19
Quote by Ippon
I should've asked Cath and the PB natives/DIYers before buying this $50 A/B/Y Switcher:




this is worth it 100%, with the three switches (the little black ones), you can get dead silence with both amps on and not have to worry about one humming louder/ not sounding the same / etc.
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#20
The cheapest/best one you can buy (IMO, of course) is the Radial Twin City. http://www.guitarcenter.com/Radial-Engineering-Bones-R800-7115-Twin-City-A-B-Y-Footswitch-105496723-i1446471.gc

It's pricy, but it's the cheapest unit I could find when I was looking for an ABY that had an isolated output, was buffered, had LED's, can run 2 amps either A / B, or A + B, and has a ground lift switch.

Other switches work fine if you're just A/Bing amps, but if you also are running a lot of pedals (like I do), you're going to get a tone of noise, and you can get loud clicking/popping noises whenever you switch. Which may not be a big deal, but again, I was researching for an ABY for best use in a live situation.
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#21
Quote by Offworld92
The cheapest/best one you can buy (IMO, of course) is the Radial Twin City. http://www.guitarcenter.com/Radial-Engineering-Bones-R800-7115-Twin-City-A-B-Y-Footswitch-105496723-i1446471.gc

It's pricy, but it's the cheapest unit I could find when I was looking for an ABY that had an isolated output, was buffered, had LED's, can run 2 amps either A / B, or A + B, and has a ground lift switch.

Other switches work fine if you're just A/Bing amps, but if you also are running a lot of pedals (like I do), you're going to get a tone of noise, and you can get loud clicking/popping noises whenever you switch. Which may not be a big deal, but again, I was researching for an ABY for best use in a live situation.


I run my LiveWire with 5 pedals on it as well and has no popping or anything. My LED burnt out after like 10 minutes, but its pretty easy to tell which amp your using
2012 Gibson Les Paul Custom Classic
2001 Schecter C-1 Classic
2007 Yamaha APX500
Vox AC15CC1 w/ Eminence Tonkerlite
Assorted Pedals!

All for sale!

Call me Matt!
#22
OffWorld92 has a good point though. They can cause noise when combined with certain pedals. If the pedal makes noise when turning on and off, switching will cause the same, maybe worse. When I use my Dunlop KH95 Cry Baby, and I switch (I switch pedal boards) I hear some real strange noises from that damn Cry Baby at times. But not using it, aint an option!
Last edited by IbanezBossShred at Jul 4, 2011,