#3
If it's sharp the saddle needs to be moved away from the neck. But considering they were originally all the way back then you will need to check the neck relief which is adjusted with the truss rod which you have also figured.

If the truss rod is tight when you try to turn it don't force it, take it to a shop. You should be able to turn it a quarter of a turn as this should be all you need most times. Generally you want a slight amount of concave forward bow. In any case it may be easier to take it to a shop as depending on what's going on they may even need to put a shim under the neck. To get the right neck pitch if you are having that much trouble with intonation.
#4
First off you need to have your nut slotted for those string ga, and I'd be willing to bet thats why it will not intonate. Have a shop do it or you'll end up ruining the nut, by cutting the slots to big/deep
2002 PRS CE22
2013 G&L ASAT Deluxe
2009 Epiphone G-400 (SH-4)
Marshall JCM2000 DSL100
Krank 1980 Jr 20watt
Krank Rev 4x12 (eminence V12)
GFS Greenie/Digitech Bad Monkey
Morley Bad Horsie 2
MXR Smart Gate
#5
You moved the saddles too far. Measure the scale length, set them all there, then move them out a distance equal to the string gauge (I use string clippings for this) and then tune the guitar. Then make small, careful adjustments to the intonation tuning after each adjustment.

As for the truss rod, that's bad. Take it back to the shop and have them check it ASAP. If this is a new guitar you need to deal with that while it is still under warranty.
#6
I've got the same problem. My first thought is to move the bridge, but that's a ton of nasty work. The second (which I already rejected, before trying it) is to do something to move the whole neck away from the bridge. I thought the nut might be in the wrong place, but the first fret intonation is really good, so I dont want to move that!

Would heavier strings make a difference?

Can someone explain the math about how neck angle and curve would affect bridge placement? The action is really good now, so messing with the neck doesnt sound like a step forwards.
#7
The second (which I already rejected, before trying it) is to do something to move the whole neck away from the bridge

Just take your guitar to someone with a clue who can set it up for you.
#8
Quote by Poglia


What should I do?


return it if it was new. i have heard of very few truss rods locking, however the impossabible intonation i have seen a lot more on cheaper guitars. i know i had set up a bottom of the barrel LTD or whatever, and it was the same way, had them all the way to the extreme and it was not possible to get them intonated. the person who installed the bridge installed too far back or too far forward, and basically rendered it useless. i have seen it on other guitars too though.
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#9
Quote by jpnyc
Just take your guitar to someone with a clue who can set it up for you.


Yeah, I have a clue. I've restored 6 guitars from trash. I've done a neck off restore on an acoustic, so I wouldn't say I don't know "how" to do intonation. Before you call someone an ass, take 5 seconds to look at their profile. What Poglia and I are looking for is solutions that can be used when the standard procedures dont work.

The correct procedure is obvious, move the bridge. However, as already mentioned, that is an incredibly invasive procedure, which I would like to avoid. Hopefully there is something that doesnt include a complete refinishing of an already well finished guitar.

I asked about string gauge because I have very little experience with anything except light strings. I tried heavy strings twice and hated it both times.
Last edited by RebuildIt at Jul 4, 2011,
#10
Thanks guys, but taking the guitar to a shop is not an option. There is only one shop where I live and it's small, ****ing expensive and they don't have a clue about guitar setup. Also it's not possible to move the neck. It's not a bolt-on guitar.

Looks like I need to find a good luthier.
#11
If it's a tuneomatic bridge have you tried flipping the saddles around to give you a little more adjustment?
I'm asking, because I know a few people that can setup a guitar fine till it comes to some of the little tricks like this.
Have you also re slotted the nut for the string size you have on it now?
You will never intonate it with out doing this.
hope any of this helps.
2002 PRS CE22
2013 G&L ASAT Deluxe
2009 Epiphone G-400 (SH-4)
Marshall JCM2000 DSL100
Krank 1980 Jr 20watt
Krank Rev 4x12 (eminence V12)
GFS Greenie/Digitech Bad Monkey
Morley Bad Horsie 2
MXR Smart Gate
Last edited by Robbgnarly at Jul 4, 2011,
#12
Quote by Robbgnarly
If it's a tuneomatic bridge have you tried flipping the saddles around to give you a little more adjustment?
I'm asking, because I know a few people that can setup a guitar fine till it comes to some of the little tricks like this.
Have you also re slotted the nut for the string size you have on it now?
You will never intonate it with out doing this.
hope any of this helps.


that sounds like a logical idea, if it just needs that extra little bit. may have to do some filing though on the bridge depending how it is filed.
WTLT 2014 GG&A

Quote by andersondb7
alright "king of the guitar forum"


Quote by trashedlostfdup
nope i am "GOD of the guitar forum" i think that fits me better.


Quote by andersondb7
youre just being a jerk man.



****** NEW NEW NEW!
2017-07-07 2017-07-07 Update and a Chat On Noise Constraints *** NEW FRIDAY 7/7
2017-04-13 RUN AWAY from COMPUTERS!!! TCE? RANT ALERT!!!
2017-03-02 - Guitar Philosophy 1001- Be Prepared For the Situation (Thursday 2017-03-02)
2017-02-21 How to Hot-Rod the Hell of your Stratocaster for $50! (Tuesday 2017-2-21)
Resentments and Rambling from a Guitar Junkie
---> http://trashedengineering.blogspot.com/