I'm thinking about repainting my MIM Fender strat.
I'm going to primer the bare wood, then use Krylon acrylic gloss WHITE.
And then going to use Minwax spar polyurethane as the clear coat.
I've seen the poly results and it comes out quite glossy, and I'm aware it does have some yellowing effect, which may turn out to make the guitar an antique white finish. (Which, is okay, with the black pickguard and components, may make it look 80's.)
So the main question is, are acrylic and polyurethane compatible?
As in, I shouldn't expect any crackling or any other problems with it, right?
Cusp of Magic
None at all, they are both essentially hard plastic finishes. Sometimes Poly clear coats can 'haze' (cloud up), but this is usually down to bad prepping.

Have you, by any chance, considered using nitrocellulose paints?

- Richard
i'm certainly not an expert, but i was under the impression that if you're using a clear coat over the top, then you'll get better results if the coloured layer is a matte rather than a gloss.
if you must obtain your supplies at the local hardware store and you must use spray cans, use spray clear lacquer over spray acrylic. start with a very smooth wood then a very smooth paint job. you've got to do tons (like 10-20 at least) of light coats with a little steel wool between every couple coats. it is a very durable finish and easy to refinish.
10 - 20 is too much. Steel wool is too corse. If you get it right, you only should need to flat the paint (sand (P800 or P1200)) after the priming stage (if using a solid colour), then after the colour coat before the lacquer goes on.

After the lacquer has cured (give a week with acrylic, two with Nitro) sane the paint flat using progressively finer sand paper (P800, 1200, 1500, 2000). After this use a rubbing compound to bring the shine back to the guitar.

- Richard
I purchased these two cans for repainting my guitar.
Once primered, and applied properly, will I have any problems from either of these?
I realize the Minwax may amber the white a bit but it's no problem:

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Cusp of Magic
That White colorcoat is Enamel, quite a bother to use because it remains tacky way longer than the Acrylic version. Here's how you recognize the difference between Krylon Acrylic and Enamel from an earlier post: https://www.ultimate-guitar.com/forum/showpost.php?p=15704829&postcount=535

Quote by Ippon
Here's what I remember from when I called Krylon or maybe Sherwin-Williams, the parent company of Krylon: the colorcoat and clearcoat that you have are both Enamel. So, at least they're compatible and won't crinkle or crease when you apply them together. This is assuming your primer/sanding sealer is also Enamel.

Here are the things to differentiate the old Acrylic Lacquer Krylon from the new Enamel Krylon based on the spraycan descriptions:

Acrylic Lacquer (old formula):
  • Interior-Exterior
  • Dries in 12 Minutes or less
  • Cover is not bullet-shaped
  • 5 balls in a circle forms a circle (front view)
  • Nozzle is not adjustable

Enamel (new formula):
  • Indoor-Outdoor
  • Dries in 10 minutes or less
  • Cover is bullet-shaped
  • 5 balls in a circle is laid flat
  • Nozzle is adjustable

This doesn't mean yours won't work ... it'll just take a bit longer to harden/dry to the point that you can wetsand or sand. You need to be even more patient.

Good Luck!

Check out the Finishing thread here: https://www.ultimate-guitar.com/forum/showthread.php?t=542726&page=14&pp=40

Quote by Explorerbuilder
You will be very disappointed if you use that minwax.... It has an amber tint and a white basecoat will look really aged or yellowish if you use that clear.
I believe he's going for that aged look; so, it'll be perfect!

I actually don't think it's enamel. All the Krylon cans have the same design as the one I posted, and I've used a can of black before and it dried rather quickly and wasn't soft to the touch like enamel. Also it took forever to sand.
And the ambering like I said isn't a problem, but how yellow is it going to get?
It's alright if it turns out antique white or ivory colored.
If it's just gonna turn it YELLOW, then I wonder if it's safe to not use clear coat...
Cusp of Magic
It won't turn Yellow. Enamel takes a long time before you can sand it. Also, I called SW when they changed the can's design and experienced the issues I mentioned. They said it was Enamel. If this is non-issue for you, as in, you have time to wait, go for it.