#1
just as the title says. i dont know what i need to do so safely, for both me and the amplifier.

i do not/ most likely cannot afford a variac (if i could find one under like $100) that shouldn' tbe an issue.

also the tubes in the kit are not matched (this is a ted weber kit), so where would i immediately start the bias at, for all i know one tube could be too hot and the other too cold. although i probably will upgrade the tubes within the next few weeks.

what do you all use for biasing as far as meters go?

i am at the stage where i know enough to do what i am doing without totally being dangerous (lol), but i could call my grandpa who helped me with my first build, so thats the extra if i need it.

thanks all.
WTLT 2014 GG&A

Quote by andersondb7
alright "king of the guitar forum"


Quote by trashedlostfdup
nope i am "GOD of the guitar forum" i think that fits me better.


Quote by andersondb7
youre just being a jerk man.



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2017-02-21 How to Hot-Rod the Hell of your Stratocaster for $50! (Tuesday 2017-2-21)
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#2
Have you checked all your connections and verified all your parts are in the right places? If so, you're ready to proceed.

I've never built an amp from scratch before, but I'd have to assume you'd want the bias set cold. If the bias is set too high, it's possible you could damage something if you waited too long to make an adjustment. I'm surprised the manual doesn't give you any instructions on where to start.

Unmatched tubes... All this means is that one tube may run a little hotter than the next, therefore working a little harder and wearing out a little sooner.

You can use almost any relatively cheap digital voltmeter. Radio Shack sells them. Do you have the biasing socket? Or does your amp have test points?

The one thing to be careful of here are the high voltages inside that amp. If you know just enough to be dangerous, perhaps it's better to call in some help. The last thing you want to do is contact high voltage and find out how good your reflexes are, or wake up dead. Is that even possible???
#3
Quote by KG6_Steven
Have you checked all your connections and verified all your parts are in the right places? If so, you're ready to proceed.

I've never built an amp from scratch before, but I'd have to assume you'd want the bias set cold. If the bias is set too high, it's possible you could damage something if you waited too long to make an adjustment. I'm surprised the manual doesn't give you any instructions on where to start.

Unmatched tubes... All this means is that one tube may run a little hotter than the next, therefore working a little harder and wearing out a little sooner.

You can use almost any relatively cheap digital voltmeter. Radio Shack sells them. Do you have the biasing socket? Or does your amp have test points?

The one thing to be careful of here are the high voltages inside that amp. If you know just enough to be dangerous, perhaps it's better to call in some help. The last thing you want to do is contact high voltage and find out how good your reflexes are, or wake up dead. Is that even possible???



right now its about 50% done. the turret board is fully wired (and double checked), need to hook up the tails to the tube sockets/inputs/pots/and the tranny needs to be hooked up and most of the high voltage run.

i am aware that i will likely have to replace the kt66's, and your thinking is exactly mine.

i need to get something to bias it. i have a snapon dvom, that will do everything for me, i guess maybe i just need the socket?

however i would prefer a biasing tool (weber bias king, etc)

i know enough to be safe as far as power goes, and my father will likely come over and he does a lot of electrical work (more construction/electrician type stuff, and he is very good with being safe with voltages) but tell him any technical details and he is no better than i.
WTLT 2014 GG&A

Quote by andersondb7
alright "king of the guitar forum"


Quote by trashedlostfdup
nope i am "GOD of the guitar forum" i think that fits me better.


Quote by andersondb7
youre just being a jerk man.



****** NEW NEW NEW!
2017-07-07 2017-07-07 Update and a Chat On Noise Constraints *** NEW FRIDAY 7/7
2017-04-13 RUN AWAY from COMPUTERS!!! TCE? RANT ALERT!!!
2017-03-02 - Guitar Philosophy 1001- Be Prepared For the Situation (Thursday 2017-03-02)
2017-02-21 How to Hot-Rod the Hell of your Stratocaster for $50! (Tuesday 2017-2-21)
Resentments and Rambling from a Guitar Junkie
---> http://trashedengineering.blogspot.com/
#4
Before powering on any new build for the first time, I first do a complete verification of the entire circuit against the schematic. If you really want to be safe, you can perform certain tests such as probing for continuity between HT nodes and ground (which will indicate short circuits in the high voltage power supply), and heater supply to ground.

For fixed bias class AB builds, I set the bias voltage cold before tubes are installed. Since my builds typically have original power amp designs and my bias points are determined from a chart of characteristic curves, I know what my target bias voltage is and will set the fire-up bias around -10V from that point. If you don't know what your target voltage will be, you can set your bias voltage at around -60V or so and be pretty sure your power tubes will start out cold.
#6
Quote by ECistheBest
i pray to god that i done a good job.


This.

Have you cut yourself and bled at any point in time during the build? If not... better sacrifice some blood to the amp gods.

When I build I highlight as I wire things up. Once that is done, I throw the paper away get another one and check everything again.

I use a light bulb limiter to keep from blowing up a transformer. Having blown an expensive PT before I learned my lesson. If you don't have one its a simple build. Its essentially a light bulb in series in the hot line of AC. If it stays on bright when you turn it on you have a short somewhere.

I usually start a fixed bias amp with bias cold, turn it up to the correct current and start testing.

Once all of that is said and done I usually connect the amp to a resistive load and run a signal sweep through it over night.

Overkill some may say, but it weeds out failures well.
#7
Quote by XgamerGt04
This.

Have you cut yourself and bled at any point in time during the build? If not... better sacrifice some blood to the amp gods.

When I build I highlight as I wire things up. Once that is done, I throw the paper away get another one and check everything again.

I use a light bulb limiter to keep from blowing up a transformer. Having blown an expensive PT before I learned my lesson. If you don't have one its a simple build. Its essentially a light bulb in series in the hot line of AC. If it stays on bright when you turn it on you have a short somewhere.

I usually start a fixed bias amp with bias cold, turn it up to the correct current and start testing.

Once all of that is said and done I usually connect the amp to a resistive load and run a signal sweep through it over night.
Overkill some may say, but it weeds out failures well.


whati exactly is a light bulb limiter? link?

what is a signal sweep?

pardon my lack of knowledge and thanks for the help guys.

also whatshould i get for checking bias?
WTLT 2014 GG&A

Quote by andersondb7
alright "king of the guitar forum"


Quote by trashedlostfdup
nope i am "GOD of the guitar forum" i think that fits me better.


Quote by andersondb7
youre just being a jerk man.



****** NEW NEW NEW!
2017-07-07 2017-07-07 Update and a Chat On Noise Constraints *** NEW FRIDAY 7/7
2017-04-13 RUN AWAY from COMPUTERS!!! TCE? RANT ALERT!!!
2017-03-02 - Guitar Philosophy 1001- Be Prepared For the Situation (Thursday 2017-03-02)
2017-02-21 How to Hot-Rod the Hell of your Stratocaster for $50! (Tuesday 2017-2-21)
Resentments and Rambling from a Guitar Junkie
---> http://trashedengineering.blogspot.com/