#1
Ive decided to give building a neck a go for this next build im starting
i have small hands and have decided to make it very thin. plus im a sign language interpreter so i need to lessen the stress on my hands/wrists, and trying to wrap a large/normal neck stresses my wrists a lot. (ive been doing a lot of thumb on low E string stuff lately).
ill be buying a fretboard already fretted.
So i have a few questions. because im going on the very-thin side, what would the most stable wood choice be? would maple be fine?
im guessing i should use graphite reinforcement. should i do a truss rod in the middle with a graphite rod on each side? whats the best placement, and do i need two or one? i found one at allparts for 32.50 thats 1/8" x 3/8"

opinions on how to approach this?

thanks in advance! i searched around on google and didnt find much about it. which is surprising... but probably just hard to get search terms that will only show what i need.

edit - i have blocks of poplar, 7" x 8/4" x 38" so enough for several necks. would poplar be an okay choice?
Last edited by xadioriderx at Jul 12, 2011,
#2
If you put graphite in it a truss rod won't exactly be able to do anything, the graphite will keep it straight as a board no matter what since it doesn't bend or flex.

Poplar isn't hard enough to make a neck with, rock maple is your best option. You can make necks reasonably thin even without CF reinforcement, but you need to be carefull that the wood is thick enough that the rod can't push through it.
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#3
heres a thing on warmoth about bass necks.
http://www.warmoth.com/bass/necks/TrussRods.aspx
they have steel even, with a truss rod... i wouldnt think the truss rod would do much then. graphite at least flexes (ie golf club shafts).

and i see quite a few with truss and graphite:
#4
Quote by xadioriderx
graphite at least flexes (ie golf club shafts).]


Are you sure you don't mean fiberglass? I know my dad has a few nice clubs, all fiberglass shafts, and mine are all fiberglass. But I suck at golf (for now) so what the hell do I know?
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#6
Quote by xadioriderx
haha, i have a set with graphite, its really common!


McGoogle'd it. So many different ones. Fiberglass, graphite, graphite-fiberglass, carbon fiber..... It goes on.
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#7
Quote by chadreed32
McGoogle'd it. So many different ones. Fiberglass, graphite, graphite-fiberglass, carbon fiber..... It goes on.

yep, always trying new things i guess
im thinking about hacking up my 3 and 9 irons and using those shafts for my guitar neck. i cant hit those clubs worth beans anyways
#8
Quote by xadioriderx
yep, always trying new things i guess
im thinking about hacking up my 3 and 9 irons and using those shafts for my guitar neck. i cant hit those clubs worth beans anyways


Hah, that would be interesting. Funny because I find the 3 and 9 a hell of a lot more usefull than say, 5 or 6.
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#9
oh man, im a 4, 6, 8, PW kind of guy =p
well i guess ill be trying the graphite-truss-graphite layout like the pic above. i just dont know how thin to make the neck. maybe ill just buy a cheap cheap guitar of craigslist and steal stuff from it. a new truss rod, neck blank, and all that jazz would be more expensive
#10
Quote by xadioriderx
oh man, im a 4, 6, 8, PW kind of guy =p
well i guess ill be trying the graphite-truss-graphite layout like the pic above. i just dont know how thin to make the neck. maybe ill just buy a cheap cheap guitar of craigslist and steal stuff from it. a new truss rod, neck blank, and all that jazz would be more expensive


Good luck with that neck dude. And I like how we completely raided this thread and talked about golf, lol. But I really dont see the point of a 6, just an awkward angle. Can accomplish anything that will do with something else. PW, though, man I love that club.
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#11
Quote by chadreed32
Good luck with that neck dude. And I like how we completely raided this thread and talked about golf, lol. But I really dont see the point of a 6, just an awkward angle. Can accomplish anything that will do with something else. PW, though, man I love that club.


6 is just the right combo of 5 and 7 =p honestly it all started with my wanting to be different and not use 3, 5, 7, 9, then i got used to it. frankly, i hit them all about the same - into the trees. i have a mad slice!
#12
Quote by xadioriderx
6 is just the right combo of 5 and 7 =p honestly it all started with my wanting to be different and not use 3, 5, 7, 9, then i got used to it. frankly, i hit them all about the same - into the trees. i have a mad slice!


hah, me too. Every drive always goes right.
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#14
my dads new callaways are graphite. mine are pretty low quality, but i dont really play on expensive courses lol.
anyway, def's hack up the 3 iron, and show pics

also, my drives were going right as well, i figured out if i step about 20-30cm back from where i usually stand, i drive dead straight. i was pretty happy about it lol
#15
Quote by Doonan
my dads new callaways are graphite. mine are pretty low quality, but i dont really play on expensive courses lol.
anyway, def's hack up the 3 iron, and show pics

also, my drives were going right as well, i figured out if i step about 20-30cm back from where i usually stand, i drive dead straight. i was pretty happy about it lol


yep i found the same thing! stand a little further back, keep my arms up a little higher and more straight, and my drives straighten out a lot! and i remember to do it about 90% of the time, and i remember WHY the other 10%
i love my hogans too much to hack them, but heck we have plenty of steel shafts too, which still have some flex if i cant find any graphite... idk, ill have to do some looking around!
#16
when did this become a golf thread? :p
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#17
I'd really recommend against using poplar for a neck, it's doable, but not advised. You want a timber that's hard and dense, preferably with nice tight grain. Maple, mahogany, wenge, purpleheart, walnut even. Poplar would be fine for a body, not for a neck, especially if you want to make it thin.

Graphite rods are great to stiffen a neck, especially a thin one. You would need one both sides otherwise you've got neck that will bend more on one side than the other, not good. If you cross sectioned a neck, the middle of the neck material would be taking the least stress, and the outside surfaces of the neck will be taking the bulk of the strain, so ideally you will want to place the rods in the neck as close to the outside surface of the neck as practically possible, while still leaving enough material there that they won't break out the bottom or sides.
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#18
Quote by Lightbluemk2
I'd really recommend against using poplar for a neck, it's doable, but not advised. You want a timber that's hard and dense, preferably with nice tight grain. Maple, mahogany, wenge, purpleheart, walnut even. Poplar would be fine for a body, not for a neck, especially if you want to make it thin.

Graphite rods are great to stiffen a neck, especially a thin one. You would need one both sides otherwise you've got neck that will bend more on one side than the other, not good. If you cross sectioned a neck, the middle of the neck material would be taking the least stress, and the outside surfaces of the neck will be taking the bulk of the strain, so ideally you will want to place the rods in the neck as close to the outside surface of the neck as practically possible, while still leaving enough material there that they won't break out the bottom or sides.


thank you for this!
yeah after i posted about poplar i did some digging, and realized that its been done but not the best choice.
so it looks like ill be watching for a maple blank, then ill grab a $10 DAT rod, and locate some graphite rods. im excited, this should be fun!
#19
If you really wanted to take thinness to the max you could go with aluminum. Solid or wood inlays on sides.
Last edited by sampletremolo at Jul 12, 2011,
#21
Quick note, the graphite you use in a neck won't flex. It's a solid graphite rod, not hollow like a golf club or hockey stick. Aluminum would work but I would advise against using it since it expands and contracts with temperature and is less rigid than graphite overall.
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heed this man's suggestion, for he is wise.

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#22
Quote by Metalfan41
Quick note, the graphite you use in a neck won't flex. It's a solid graphite rod, not hollow like a golf club or hockey stick. Aluminum would work but I would advise against using it since it expands and contracts with temperature and is less rigid than graphite overall.


ohh good to know!
thanks for that, now i just need to find a good place that has it for cheap!
#24
Something like this would be better to use since a round rod will flex. This flat one won't be able to if you place it vertically along the width (long side going into the neck) since the carbon won't compress as easily in that direction.
I play Lacrosse, you should too
Quote by reeses
heed this man's suggestion, for he is wise.

Aww shucks...

Quote by Tom 1.0
Oh and wait for the Schecter fan boys, if you listen real hard you can already hear them coming.
#25
Quote by Metalfan41
Something like this would be better to use since a round rod will flex. This flat one won't be able to if you place it vertically along the width (long side going into the neck) since the carbon won't compress as easily in that direction.


i was looking at those first, but .092" x .220", about 1/4 one way, but .092 seems superrrr thin, granted its not in the stressed direction, think it will be enough? at 48 inches one cut in half should be enough shouldnt it
#26
If anything you can get 2 and laminate them, cut that in half and run 2 rods down either side of the center of the neck, which would be the best thing to do. I looked around on some other sites and couldn't find anything that was 1/2" thick in lengths over 12", and those were quite expensive too.
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Quote by reeses
heed this man's suggestion, for he is wise.

Aww shucks...

Quote by Tom 1.0
Oh and wait for the Schecter fan boys, if you listen real hard you can already hear them coming.
#28
If you're putting in a truss rod then have them lining the channel about 1/4" or so away on either side.
I play Lacrosse, you should too
Quote by reeses
heed this man's suggestion, for he is wise.

Aww shucks...

Quote by Tom 1.0
Oh and wait for the Schecter fan boys, if you listen real hard you can already hear them coming.
#29
ok so wood between the rods and the actual channel still wood-rod-wood-truss-wood-rod-wood so 3 routes total. i can do that, i think... lol.
im stoked! now i need to find a cheap neck blank. ideas?
thanks for all the help
#30
Quote by xadioriderx
ok so wood between the rods and the actual channel still wood-rod-wood-truss-wood-rod-wood so 3 routes total. i can do that, i think... lol.
im stoked! now i need to find a cheap neck blank. ideas?
thanks for all the help


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#31
Yeah, the 3 route setup should be ideal unless someone with more knowledge about this than me states otherwise. As for cheap blanks, most lumberyards sell maple for fairly cheap. Look some up in the phonebook or online and find out how much a 6"x6"x4' or whatever measurements you need beam will cost. Carvin sells neck blanks and I think StewMac does as well, just look around online a bit to get some price ideas.
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heed this man's suggestion, for he is wise.

Aww shucks...

Quote by Tom 1.0
Oh and wait for the Schecter fan boys, if you listen real hard you can already hear them coming.
#32
6 by 6 seems massive for a 3x3 neck no? a 4x4 would be enough i would think. and probably 3 foot long. just have to find a quality board i guess. ill call around!
stewmac is pretty spendy, theres some for decent cost on ebay though too, like 40 bucks i think

its gonna be 3x3 headstock, i dont like the all on one side look, which most necks i find anymore are!
#33
Lumber yards are usually the cheapest way to go since you're cutting out the middleman and postage, shipping, etc.
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heed this man's suggestion, for he is wise.

Aww shucks...

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Oh and wait for the Schecter fan boys, if you listen real hard you can already hear them coming.
#35
A pic would help haha
I play Lacrosse, you should too
Quote by reeses
heed this man's suggestion, for he is wise.

Aww shucks...

Quote by Tom 1.0
Oh and wait for the Schecter fan boys, if you listen real hard you can already hear them coming.
#37
hmm, ive been reading around, and im not sure those thin little pieces will be strong enough. ive read a lot of people using tubes, which generally are 3x stiffer than wood, whereas a square bar is about 10x stiffer. problem being that that much stiffness wont allow me to adjust. so im thinking about doing the tubes to add thickness but still let me adjust

also, the stewmac blanks are like 13/16 by 4 by 27, what are you supposed to do about the heel? cut a section off and laminate it underneath?
Last edited by xadioriderx at Jul 13, 2011,
#38
The Stewmac blanks are meant to be used for bolt-ons which don't have heels. My guess is that the wood on a regular neck is roughly that thick without the fretboard glued on. Really you could get a nice maple 2x4 from a local yard that would suffice instead of ordering a neck blank, it would give you more wood to work with.
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Quote by reeses
heed this man's suggestion, for he is wise.

Aww shucks...

Quote by Tom 1.0
Oh and wait for the Schecter fan boys, if you listen real hard you can already hear them coming.
#39
just have to get the high quality stuff eh?
that would be nice if they have something high quality enough, i do knwo a few places with a high quality selection, ill give one a call. thanks again for the help!