#1
OK . . . full build 2. I'm hoping that the complexity of it will make me focus on it and not rush into doing things at three in the morning like I usually do. Onto the specs.

Jackson kelly body (alder)
Maple neck through (1 piece, headstock on body end.)
Probably some sort of coloured stringer
Fanned Multiple Scale fret dealy (Multiscale is apparently a copyrighted term and this is the last time I'm probably going to be able to use it, but thats pretty much the idea)
Brass bridge (acoustic style)
2 single coil pickups, with the middle position of 3 way toggle making them a humbucker. Slanted because . . . well everything else is.
Should be about everything that so . . . pictures!


Centre line drawn. . . it's the one in the centre. The 6 lines at the side are where the strings will be. I worked out from the centre line where the nut slots would be and from that where the strings would go. They extend the entire length of the neck so that I know where the tuners should go for a straight string pull =D Also, I've had to sort of guess at how people make FF guitars, but I figured you'd need to know the line of the strings. The dots are where the tuners are going to go.



Next to a ruler. One of the ideas of this project was to reduce the length of the guitar - better ergonomics, and because I'm small it makes more sense. However, the kelly body is kind of long because of it's unique dimensions, so even though it's small compared to a normal kelly, its about the same length as a strat.



Close up of the headstock end. Its got the rough sizing of the tuner holes in, as well as the area that needs to be routed. It's pretty much just a normal headstock.



EDIT: don't know why that posted.

OK . . .

Slanted frets. I don't need to mark down all the frets till I have the fretboard, but I do need to know where the fretboard will start and end so that I can get an accurate fretboard sizing. I'll also know what I can do to the body in terms of trimming it down.



Plywood body copy to test fit things with



The body I'm using. It's been divided in three from the centre line and the two wings will be used to glue to the neck =D



Everything important marked on, with the uncut plywood body there.



So the advantage of this build is that I don't really need to worry about the wings much at all, everything I do should be focused around that one piece of wood that is the centre. I know that means one slip up ruins the entire thing, but by the same standard, I quite like the minimilism. The entire guitar is pretty much one piece, it's just a fretboard and wings, but the wings aren't essential to it being a guitar.

For anyone wondering about the advantages of anything that I'm doing . . .

Headless design looks weird, but it moves all the weight to the body and since all the weight is at the body end, it means there's no neck dive. However, because theres so little weight at the end of the neck, it means the body has less to compensate for and can actually be a lot lighter. Like a LOT. I might yet route out the back of the body just because I can to lower weight. I might even make this into a steinberger guitar - pretty much bodyless and just forget the wings. I always thought that having tuners at the headstock was a bad idea that we stuck with because the original designs had them there. Just me maybe.

As for the old FF thing. . . It's not being done for the advantage, it's being done because I've never done it and I'd like to, because it looks cool and because doing it myself is the cheapest way to try it. It also sounds cool. =D However, there are supposed advantages. It's meant to have better intonation (shouldn't apply on mine because it's standard scale lengths 25.5 - 24.75) and it's meant to fit the curve of your hand as you play more naturally. I'm yet to see whether this works, but I'm curious.

So yeah, just seems like it'd be something new and different to try. I had the wood already and I have all the nice guitars I need (my soloist finished pictures will be up soon I promise =D)
Last edited by CobenBlack at Jul 20, 2011,
#2
slanted frets?


i've never actually seen that in person. i'm guessing thats for shred?
#3
Not really. I have a thing about 'metal' guitars but I don't really play metal. The heaviest I get is usually classic rock. I'm also quite a slow player really.

I think a lot of shredders would get a kick from it because it apparently makes it easier to play, but if you make it easier for a jazz player or a blues player I think it's still a good thing. I'm just trying it because I've never played it before really. Seems interesting. =]
#4
ahh, i was told that it makes chords hard to play, but it helps the shredding part of playing.
#5
Depends where on the neck. Barre chords are usually easier to play further up the neck because the frets are curved to your natural angle. Cowboy chords can be a little harder, but you define how steep the slope is on the guitar by where you have your straight fret and how big the difference between the scales is. Mine is quite a relaxed gradient an should be fairly subtle compared to a normal guitar.

I'll let you know better when it's done though, because till then I'm workin blind.

Oh, for anyone interested, I've so far done this build for free so I've decided to see how far I can get with it on a budget. I've decided to avoid spending money by making it a one piece neck and dropping a truss in the back. I should have spare maple to plug the gap (skunk stripe) whereas I wouldn't have had enough for a fretboard. All the electronics and bridge will be recessed to compensate.
Last edited by CobenBlack at Jul 20, 2011,
#6
It's missing a string.




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#8
Quote by CobenBlack
Suppose I could build my first seven. That would probably make it a pretty appealing guitar to a lot of metal fans. Know of any cheap 7 locking tuners? I know of a set of 6s I can get for 25 quid


Some places will send you another for not too much more. It normally isn't that much of a hassle. Just email and ask around.

My things:
Bowes SLx7
Washburn WG587
Washburn X40Pro
Washburn X50
Washburn HM24
Washburn WR150
Laguna LE200s
Arietta Acoustic
First Act
Valveking 112
VHT Deliverance

#9
The Kelly looks cool, but I'll be damned if they're not one of the most awkward and uncomfortable guitars to play, IMO.
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Sleaze, that made me lulz in my pants.


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#10
They really are quite unomfortable. The plan with this guitar is pretty much to get everything done on the neck First and then glue the sides onto it just before painting and things. I have some time to decide that it's a bad idea yet. I might just sell it at the end. See if I can actually turn a profit on a guitar I've made =]
#11
Nice dude. I rebuilt one of my Kellys and got lazy on the neck, in the end I went out and bough a cheap JS model and just used the neck for it since it had shark fin inlays.

I will be peaking in on this one.
#12
Just a little bit of an update and then a question. First . . . a little bit of work has been done. =D

That triangle bit isn't going to be used for the guitar body, I was just sort of putting it there for the picture since that is what I cut off. Yes I cut it off with a hack saw. Yes that's how I'll be doing a lot of this build.

Now, I'm wondering with the jackson kelly shape being so uncomfortable, and with the fact that the body doesn't exactly need to be very heavy since it's not counterbalancing anything from the headstock, does anyone have any ideas for body shapes? I've seen lots of ergonomic body shapes but they look like ass. They also don't need to be as big as they are weight wise since the weight is where it needs to be already.

I'm just trying to think of quite small body shapes, or things that look good with that sort of cut out in it - so far I'm thinking I could even make the body look like a shark =D