#1
Alright. My StrapLock screw on the horn-side recently ''screwed up'' the hole for the second time. My nut is actually holding only by the pression of the string.

Any idea on how i can fix this, or I should just get a guitar not made of crappy basswood?
#2
I should just get a guitar not made of crappy basswood


Sounds like that would be your best bet - if you've got problems like that with the guitar, it can't be particularly well built in the first place. What make/model is it - people will probably want to know so they can avoid buying one and having the same problem.

As a temporary solution, you could try putting some superglue in the screw-hole to see if that holds it in place? Don't know if that would work or not, but if the pressure of the strings is holding the nut in place for you to keep practicing it might buy you enough time to find a new guitar.
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#3
Get a longer screw and dab it into some glue before installing. Get a screw with deeper threads too (like a dry wall screw only smaller in diameter). Even with glue you will be able to remove the screw.
#4
Don't use super glue, use wood glue. You want to fill the hole so the screw has something to grip.
#5
Don't use super glue, use wood glue.

Sounds logical - if you're working with wood, it probably makes sense to use the proper stuff!
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#6
Toothpicks or wooden matches can be glued in to fill the big screw hole before reusing the hole for better grip. The nut can be held in place with a bit of superglue.
#7
Thanks guys! But I'll be probably stuck with this SCHECTER OMEN-6 2010 MODEL, N10100790 MADE IN INDONESIA for a couple of month, until I get done with my first build (PRS SE One-alike), then maybe sell it for like 200$-250$, then save for a PRS SE SC trem...
Also, a weird thing about the omen6: the pups are made for droptuning, and they sound really good with taht, but the tuners can't keep a droptuning correct for ten minutes. Strange, hey?
Last edited by n1ckn1ce at Jul 24, 2011,
#8
Quote by n1ckn1ce
Thanks guys! But I'll be probably stuck with this SCHECTER OMEN-6 2010 MODEL, N10100790 MADE IN INDONESIA for a couple of month, until I get done with my first build (PRS SE One-alike), then maybe sell it for like 200$-250$, then save for a PRS SE SC trem...
Also, a weird thing about the omen6: the pups are made for droptuning, and they sound really good with taht, but the tuners can't keep a droptuning correct for ten minutes. Strange, hey?

That maybe the nut is grabbing the strings.
Have you gotten the guitar properly setup for heavy stings/drop tuning? If not take some scrap string clippings, and file the nut to accept the strings better. Also take a pencil and rub it on the nut slots to lube them up and the strings wont bind.
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#9
I don't go really low, my four tuning are E, Drop D, Drop D flt and Drop C. I keep a 9 to 42 string gauge, easier bends. The nut is already a black tusq XL graphite thing.
Last edited by n1ckn1ce at Jul 24, 2011,
#10
You've got it backwards, use superglue instead of wood glue for this particular problem. You're not trying to bond wood to wood inside the screw hole, so why use glue intended for that purpose?

The threads are damaged inside the hole and the screw cannot seat itself correctly. The superglue will impregnate the fibers and when it dries it becomes very stiff and rigid. This will build up the threads, so whenever you install the screw it cuts new threads for itself into the hardened surrounding wood fibers. This is way easier and just as effective as drilling out the hole, plugging it, and redrilling.

You're not actually using the superglue as a "glue" per say, just as something to harden the material around the screw.
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#12
However long the bottle says you should, it's a little different for each glue.
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#13
If your nut isn't glued in, the solution is pretty obvious.

Glue it in.

Superglue ought to do the trick.
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#14
^ you dont need to glue in the nut at all... dont even bother, the string tension will hold it in place.
With super glue you dab some on, you put the nut in the slot, then accidentally tap it off center and now you just ****ed up your nut slot.


Quote by Flux'D
You've got it backwards, use superglue instead of wood glue for this particular problem. You're not trying to bond wood to wood inside the screw hole, so why use glue intended for that purpose?


You're not actually using the superglue as a "glue" per say, just as something to harden the material around the screw.



Yeah but when wood glue dries it becomes hard... It bonds to the stripped screw hole wood and since the screw is already in there, creates the thread pattern it needs without bonding to the screw.
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Last edited by SKArface McDank at Jul 24, 2011,
#16
Don't glue the screw into the guitar. Regardless of what kind of glue you use it will make removing the screw more difficult. Put in one or two toothpicks with some glue. Let it dry and the put in screw. And don't over tighten it. That's what messes up the threads in the first place.

And you certainly do want to glue the nut down. It makes for better transfer of vibrations. And if it's free to float the various tensions of the strings will pull it from center and one of your E strings will be dangerously close to the edge of the fretboard.
#17
Quote by n1ckn1ce
Alright. My StrapLock screw on the horn-side recently ''screwed up'' the hole for the second time. My nut is actually holding only by the pression of the string.

Any idea on how i can fix this, or I should just get a guitar not made of crappy basswood?
Really? Basswood has been used by various manufacturers across the board and they're just fine.

As pointed about, use toothpicks (not glued) or a dowel that is glued in prior to re-installing the straplock.

As far as the nut, make sure that it's sized appropriately in the nut shelf; then, a touch of glue in the center. When it's time to replace or upgrade, you can snap off the entire thing easily. Gluing the entire nut will be a bitch to remove, if you had to.
#18
Well, basswood is kinda weak, compared to mahogany, maple or ash... and its used accros the board for low end guitar, just like plywood.
#20
Basswood is used on a lot of guitars. Not just low end. The Jem is basswood. Many "superstrats" are basswood because of it's good resonance and how it accentuates the high-mids. It's fine.
It might be weak but it isn't crap. Stripping the threads in a strap button is common no matter what the wood.
Last edited by inkandlead at Jul 25, 2011,
#21
Maybe mine is just low grade... anyway, what I meant by weak is that i just touch it and there is a huge ding in my guiter, so I would actually prefer something better like the rock-solid mahogany thats waiting in my bedroom to be shaped.
#22
IMO, the kind of person who makes a guitar out of the hardest wood they can find just so that it doesn't dent when they fuck around with it deserves their guitar to be dented.

Having said that, I'm the kind of person who babies their guitars and puts them to bed gently after having polished the neck and dusted their every concievable place, so perhaps I'm just overly careful.

I would take tone as a priority. There is such a thing as tonewood, after all. Generally speaking, hard, dense woods = brighter, colder sound (Mahogany isn't particularly hard which is why it lends to the warmer, deeper tone of Les Pauls and SGs. Equally, the harder wood used in strats helps to give them a brighter, colder, more 'strat-like' sound). After that, looks.
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#23
Hey folks, updtes. Just glued the scrw with wood glue, solid as rock. I'll probably glue the nut with superglue next time I restring.