#1
Alright so im about to build my first neck. Its a 25.5" scale, rosewood fingerboard comes preslotted with 24 frets. Neck is made of bubinga. it will be fairly thin, and undecided about width yet, either 1 9/16" or 1 11/16", so narrow.

now the question is, i got the truss rod, its 17.25" long, so it would come down to about the 20th fret or so (hex adjustment at headstock). is that going to be long enough? where should it generally come down to in reference to the heel? this would be about 1/4 to 1/3 of the way through the heel i think, is that enough?

thanks in advance!
#2
Quote by xadioriderx
Alright so im about to build my first neck. Its a 25.5" scale, rosewood fingerboard comes preslotted with 24 frets. Neck is made of bubinga. it will be fairly thin, and undecided about width yet, either 1 9/16" or 1 11/16", so narrow.

now the question is, i got the truss rod, its 17.25" long, so it would come down to about the 20th fret or so (hex adjustment at headstock). is that going to be long enough? where should it generally come down to in reference to the heel? this would be about 1/4 to 1/3 of the way through the heel i think, is that enough?

thanks in advance!



That truss rod length is fine, you'll have no problems. Good luck with the build
#3
great! thank you!
now im trying to figure out what order to go in. cut headstock 13-15 degrees for scarf joint, glue on, route truss channel, install truss, glue fretboard, shape neck? i have no rasps or anything, any trick ways to shape a neck?
#4
Quote by xadioriderx
great! thank you!
now im trying to figure out what order to go in. cut headstock 13-15 degrees for scarf joint, glue on, route truss channel, install truss, glue fretboard, shape neck? i have no rasps or anything, any trick ways to shape a neck?


That sounds like the right order for everthing . You could use ALOT of sandpaper or a belt sander if you have one. I have seen people make up jigs to use on a belt sander to shape the neck. I wouldn't do it that way though, to sceary haha. Or you could use a file (Idk if by rasp you mean file or not, people around here seem to use the word rasp for a rough file even though I belive rasps to be kinda diffrent but anyway). Theres also some video's on youtube useing a round over bit on a router to take away most of the wood and then sand it down to shape. Theres also spoke shaves if you have one.
#5
by rasp i meant like the one listed on LMII, its basically a cheese grater on a stick

ive marked my headstock at 15 degrees, and im going to go headstock on top of the neck for the scarf, then the fingerboard on top of that, so it will sandwich it. looks like it should fit pretty well.
for wings on the headstock to make it wider, should i glue them on after the scarf joint is set?

thanks for your help guys!

i also did just borrow 3 hand planers, one big , one medium , one tiny, but the bigger two seem fairly dull so i dont know if ill be able to use them much. i guess ill cross that bridge when i get there. gonne cut the scarf angle here soon! im nervous =p
Last edited by xadioriderx at Aug 3, 2011,
#6
I would probably do the wing assembly first - it will be a lot easier to smooth front and back of the peghead wing joints before it is attached to the neck (or even run it through a planer top + bottom to do a perfect job). As for shaping the neck, I have found a spokeshave is best. It will give you the easiest even results, as you are drawing it evenly along the whole length of the neck. It is also easy to control and won't destroy a blank in an instant like a power tool.
Various Strats
Polytone Mini Brute
Koch Studiotone XL
Swart STR Tweed
Quilter 101 Reverb and Mini
1958 National lap steel
Eastman El Rey 1
#7
^^ ah yes! a spokeshave, i didnt know what that was but i just looked it up, and i have seen a few videos of people using them, looks promising, but maybe to spendy for me. i havent looked into them, but i already im tight for buying hardware right now, so that maybe a tool for future endeavors... =/ it looks like a planer with side handles. maybe i can make something functional like that... probably not
#9
Quote by xadioriderx
crap. my chop saw only goes to 45 degrees, i need 75 for the scarf =( hm


No, you need 15. Clamp it (perhaps in a fabricated jig) parallel to the normal orientation of the blade, then set the blade at 15.
Various Strats
Polytone Mini Brute
Koch Studiotone XL
Swart STR Tweed
Quilter 101 Reverb and Mini
1958 National lap steel
Eastman El Rey 1
#10
right, to cut it how you normally would i would need 75 degrees. for 15, the problem is i couldnt put it perpendicular to the fence and have it cut far enough out.
but like you said, i did make up a jig and manage to get it slid in deep enough. it only cut 3/4 of the way through before hitting the blade housing, and rather than flip to do the other side and risk missing, im just going to finish by hand. one more thing to add to my webpage
it actually got a very perfect cut for that 3/4, i was worried!
#11
dude, seriously, you're building guitars, invest in a rasp :p
Epiphone Les Paul Plus Top
Jet City JCA5212RC (SLO Modded)
Ibanez WD7 Wah
Mad Professor Sweet Honey Overdrive
TC Electronic Flashback Triple Delay
TC Electronic Trinity Reverb
#13
You can buy the tools to shape a neck at lowes for a grand total of 17 bucks .

Also, can you document this process with pics? I'm doing one piece necks for now, but I'm going to be doing a scarf for my neck build and pics would greatly help.

My things:
Bowes SLx7
Washburn WG587
Washburn X40Pro
Washburn X50
Washburn HM24
Washburn WR150
Laguna LE200s
Arietta Acoustic
First Act
Valveking 112
VHT Deliverance

Last edited by valennic at Aug 3, 2011,
#14
absolutely, it will all be on my web page when im done with it. i have taken some pics and posted them for now, but not many, and ill do a write up here soon. i will also link up a few of the pages that helped me out too!

and i may have to make a trip to lowes or home depot if theyre that cheap.. =p
but how much cooler would i be if i shaped it with a fingernail file and sandpaper?
#15
Quote by xadioriderx
absolutely, it will all be on my web page when im done with it. i have taken some pics and posted them for now, but not many, and ill do a write up here soon. i will also link up a few of the pages that helped me out too!

and i may have to make a trip to lowes or home depot if theyre that cheap.. =p
but how much cooler would i be if i shaped it with a fingernail file and sandpaper?


Excellent thank you!

Yeah, they're like 7 bucks a piece. I picked em up for the purpose of neck carving and they came in handy for carving the bevels on my girlfriends guitar, I know I'm going to have to buy more at some point but they'll last for about two guitars I say give your fingernail file sandpaper idea a go, why the **** not?

My things:
Bowes SLx7
Washburn WG587
Washburn X40Pro
Washburn X50
Washburn HM24
Washburn WR150
Laguna LE200s
Arietta Acoustic
First Act
Valveking 112
VHT Deliverance

#16
haha, im pretty sure on bubinga a fingernail file would take a few years
i had to finish the cut with a hand saw, only about 3/4 inch or so, and i had to take a break and switch off with someone else to do it, took like 10 minutes! that stuffs HARD!

i did get 3 varying planers yesterday from a friend, but only the 1" wide one is sharp enough to really use right now, but i was going to look into using those for some of the shaping.
i really like the spokeshave idea though

edit: heres a spokeshave for like 4 bucks... theres numerous online. anything special i should look for in one?
http://www.gnchobbies.com/spokeshave.html
Last edited by xadioriderx at Aug 3, 2011,