#1
i've been having troubles getting the licensed floyd rose on my washburn to flutter recently can anyone give any suggestions how to fix this?
#2
Usually the better Floyds will flutter and the cheaper ones might now.
#3
Cheaper FRs don't flutter well, if at all. I would suggest replacing it with an Original Floyd Rose made by Schaller, or a licensed Schaller Floyd Rose. Those are about the best ones you can get. You can find them on Warmoth or Carvin.com

Don't bother with LFRs. They are not worth the money. Believe me.
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#4
ok, thanks for the advice. i was just wondering this because the 3 other guitars i have with LFR's flutter fine but that one just goes right back to the resting spot.
#5
Yeah it really depends on the steel used. Some LFRs are awesome (Like the Ibanez Edge and lo pro and Edge Pro) but most others are crap. a rule of thumb, if it has an LFR and you can replace it with an OFR, do it.
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This is terrible advice. Even worse than the useless dry, sarcastic comment I made.

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I'm too old for the Jim Morrison look now. When I was gigging I had a fine arse.
#7
Quote by robhc
Try putting lighter strings on it.



there are .009's on it right now so i dont think string gauge is a problem
#8
Quote by stonyman65
Some LFRs are awesome (Like the Ibanez Edge and lo pro and Edge Pro)
Those aren't LFRs.

Lighter string sisn't the trick, you want the opposite. To get the best flutter results with a floating bridge you want to use thick strings in standard tuning and have heavy spring tension in the back. Having everything set stiff means the bridge will bounce more which causes the flutter effect. Floyds really aren't the best for fluttering because they're designed to feel loose and be easy to move.
#9
Nope, that's rubbish.

1 - those Ibanez sesigns are all LFRs - having the words "Licensed Under Floyd Rose Patents" stamped on them is usually a dead giveaway. The Edge 3 is original though.l

2 - you need LOWER tension for flutters, particularly spring tension, otherwise the bridge returns to tension far too quickly. It won't bounce "more" if everything's stiffer, it'll bounce less.

Finally, "Floyds really aren't the best for fluttering" - on the contrary, they're just about the only bridge you can get to flutter properly.

No offence intended, but you couldn't be more wrong about this subject if you tried.
Actually called Mark!

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#10
I've never found a double locking design of any kind that could flutter half as well as a vintage trem set up properly. They're too loose, they either bounce too far and it becomes more of just a vibrato effect or they simply bounce too slowly. You need to get some tension on there so it'll really move right. Obviously it's no good if you tighten the springs so much the whole bridge locks down but slack strings and springs are no good. Look up Jeff Beck for a master class on fluttering.
#11
i agree with mark. i get way more flutter out of a floyd than anything else, basically.

there's a ton of extra mass behind the bridge at a fairly big distance (moments) which adds to the flutter.
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#12
My Lo Pro Edge flutters like a dream, you can get that proper "gargling" sound out of it - I've never managed to get a vintage trem to do it. The spring tension HAS to be lower because you want the bridge to vibrate as long as possible, and you also want that vibration to be as pronounced as possible.

If everythings stiffer then the bridge vibrates with less amplitude and for a shorter time which will kill any flutter effects before they even start.
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#13
yeah that's what i'd have thought.
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I'll have to put the Classic T models on my to-try list. Shame the finish options there are Anachronism Gold, Nuclear Waste and Aged Clown, because in principle the plaintop is right up my alley.

Quote by K33nbl4d3
Presumably because the CCF (Combined Corksniffing Forces) of MLP and Gibson forums would rise up against them, plunging the land into war.

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Et tu, br00tz?
#14
Also going back to the original problem, dull knife edges on a cheap LFR is a likely candidate for rubbish fluttering.
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#15
that too
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Quote by K33nbl4d3
I'll have to put the Classic T models on my to-try list. Shame the finish options there are Anachronism Gold, Nuclear Waste and Aged Clown, because in principle the plaintop is right up my alley.

Quote by K33nbl4d3
Presumably because the CCF (Combined Corksniffing Forces) of MLP and Gibson forums would rise up against them, plunging the land into war.

Quote by T00DEEPBLUE
Et tu, br00tz?
#16
Quote by steven seagull
Also going back to the original problem, dull knife edges on a cheap LFR is a likely candidate for rubbish fluttering.



yeah, it probably doesnt help that the posts are close to 20 years old
#17
Give them a clean and lubricate them, if you've already done that then you may have to resort to filing the knife edges...not something I'd trust myself to do.
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#18
i just cleaned them last night and it didnt help much. i can always just go and get new posts since they arent that expensive.

edit: nevermind that, i realized you were talking about on the bridge itself, i'm pretty confident i can file them so i'll give that a go this weekend
Last edited by thebestjoe at Aug 4, 2011,
#20
like when you whack the bar and it makes a gargling noise
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Quote by K33nbl4d3
I'll have to put the Classic T models on my to-try list. Shame the finish options there are Anachronism Gold, Nuclear Waste and Aged Clown, because in principle the plaintop is right up my alley.

Quote by K33nbl4d3
Presumably because the CCF (Combined Corksniffing Forces) of MLP and Gibson forums would rise up against them, plunging the land into war.

Quote by T00DEEPBLUE
Et tu, br00tz?
#21
Sounds like your pivot edges are rounding over and/or your studs are wearing. The greater the contact edge the more friction... You can put a little graphite there and see if it helps but it probably won't...