#1
So I got a strat body and neck in a trade, along with a bunch of parts for 40 bucks plus a speaker I was gonna sell for 30 bucks. I researched the guitar a bit and I found that it's a limited edition MIM strat only available in Canada, and only 250 of them were made. They were around in the far past of 2002 or 2003 I believe. It has an awesome factory-custom finish with transparent flames. Anyway, I have all the parts, but the body's routed for a Floyd Rose. I was thinking about glueing in a block using Titebond, with screws to support it, and then cleaning up the route a bit so it looks nice and then painting the route and the block a gloss black. The block is 3.5 or 4 millimeters taller than the original place for the trem, to I was wondering if that would be a problem. Do you guys think this repair would work, or look good? If the block being a tiny bit taller than normal doesn't matter, I would have to modify the pickguard. Other than that, I pretty much wanted to show off the awesome deal i got thanks to Craigslist!

http://s1182.photobucket.com/albums/x443/North_African38/
Pictures!
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#2
i believe if you want to put in a block and make sure you can't see it, you'll have to sand around the area and seal the cracks good and paint over it, which the color may not match the guitars so it might look worse
"It's not about who has the biggest stick, it's about how hard you can swing it"
#3
I'm guessing that's not a factory installed floyd routed cavity? It looks damn awful... It would take some seriously good re-finishing skills after setting a block in there. Probably... I would just try to clean up that cavity a bit and just put a Floyd Rose unit in there. It'd be easier and save time too.
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#4
You, my good sir, are correct! I would do that, but it's going to be hard to clean up anyway. I don't really have the money right now, anyway, to buy a floyd rose, and I'm not sure it would work with this neck. I already have the tremolo for it, which, for some reason the guy modified to take a Floyd Rose arm, so I wanted to use that since it's the original tremolo, I believe. About how much do you guys think it would cost for this to be professionally repaired?
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#5
Quote by NorthAfrican38
You, my good sir, are correct! I would do that, but it's going to be hard to clean up anyway. I don't really have the money right now, anyway, to buy a floyd rose, and I'm not sure it would work with this neck. I already have the tremolo for it, which, for some reason the guy modified to take a Floyd Rose arm, so I wanted to use that since it's the original tremolo, I believe. About how much do you guys think it would cost for this to be professionally repaired?

Probably a couple hundred dollars.
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#7
my friend bought a floyd copy on ebay for like $14, i dont know how good it works but its something
"It's not about who has the biggest stick, it's about how hard you can swing it"
#8
eh. there's a black licensed floyd rose for 20 bucks including shipping from Hong Kong on ebay, and it's buy it now. There are cheaper ones in chrome, but I want either black or gold. Should i go for it?
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#10
I cleaned up the route with a dremel, then glued in a wood block yesterday. I hope it turns out good. If anyone's still watching this, the guitar is from 2003-2004, anddddddd..... yeah. That's all i could find out about it. haha
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#11
Quote by NorthAfrican38
eh. there's a black licensed floyd rose for 20 bucks including shipping from Hong Kong on ebay, and it's buy it now. There are cheaper ones in chrome, but I want either black or gold. Should i go for it?



^ No!

You have a Fender there. Ok, only a MIM, but if that FR rout was tidied up, a good FR (ie. Gotoh units are very good and cheaper than OFRs or Schallers) installed and it was set up nice, you'd have a decent guitar there.

I know you said you've already glued in a block of wood, but Stewmac sell templates for routing FR cavities.

If the block isn't set nice and tight, it's going to look bad, no matter how much refinishing you do.
#12
Quote by KempGuitars
^ No!

.


Well, how straightforward.
I decided against buying any of those chinese deathtraps a while ago haha. I ran into a problem already when i checked on the glue's progress, one side of the block was bent up, so i clamped that down. I figured this way would be cheaper and, since i know very little about floyds, i thought it would be a better path. By the way, i have a cheap speedloader style floyd, anyone have anything good to say about those? All i've seen is bad talk about them cuz it only locks at the nut and not the saddle.
I just realized i should be sleeping. I'm anxious to see how this turns out haha
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#13
If it's not sitting perfectly and has moved during the gluing process then it's not a tight enough fit. Small gaps can be filled with a 2k auto epoxy - don't use wood filler - but ideally you don't want to be filling too much empty space around the wood block with filler.
#14
Soooooo I took the clamps off after like 40some hours. it turned out better than I expected. It's pretty even and there aren't that many gaps. In other news, I got a nasty cut on my foot from my bedframe... don't ask. i can get hurt on anything. The wiring on the pickguard is all ready so all i need to do to put that on is solder the hot and ground wires from the jack, and then the ground wire to the trem claw. Hope it sounds okay haha This is the first one i've wired completely from scratch. i'm confident it'll work though!
Attachments:
strat clamped.jpg
route glued strat 2.jpg
strat route glued uhhhh 3!.jpg
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#15
looks like you already went at it.

if it were me - and you still can anyways - i would make a small thin metal, or wood plate to put under the new bridge, and cover the route with. you can make it look legit.
imagine like a neck plate, except the right size and shape, placed under the bridge. or made of wood and painted black. i bet you could make it look really good. i have a spacer piece of wood under the bridge on one of my guitars. its 1/4 inch, and was to lift the action up, but something thinner like a piece of veneer almost would work
#16
I thought you were gonna fill the whole cavity?

Not sure what you're planning with part filling that. Looking at what had been routed previously, your best bet was/is to just tidy that up (eg. get a FR rout template).
#17
Sorry, my friend's dad had the saw and he didn't wanna make a new block. I think im gonna steal xadio's idea though it would look pretty unique sorta :P
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#18
Quote by NorthAfrican38
Sorry, my friend's dad had the saw and he didn't wanna make a new block. I think im gonna steal xadio's idea though it would look pretty unique sorta :P



Just make sure you have enough solid material to secure your bridge to... you don't want to end up with a bridge coming loose under the strings' tension and flying into your face
#19
yeah, it looks like if you had a 1/4 or so piece of wood glued down along the front of the route, that would be about where your posts or screws would go for the new trem. i assume youre using that trem in the picture.

all youll need to do is make sure your screws or posts are long enough to go through that ~1/4" piece and bite into the actual body. should have no issues!
#20
Yeah, it's a lot shallower of a route than it looks. The screws will go into the body fine. My dad's friend has a shop that does metalworking so i can do that, does anyone know where i can get a gloss black or chrome piece of sheet metal that's not too thick? If not i'll just paint some metal black. Should i have it in some sorta cool shape or would that look cheesy?
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