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#1
So I've always wanted a strat to go with my LP, so I can cover all bases, and I've also always wanted to build my own guitar so I'm going to take things easy to begin with and buy a Strat Kit to get me the body and the neck and then I'll worry about the parts as I go along.

I've got a few questions for along the way:

what paint is used on a fender body? I don't want to just paint it with something like spray paint cause it will look stupid and it will be too thick.

If I decide to just go "au natural" with the wood and simply stain it, will waxing the wood be sufficient, or will it need to be sealed with a satin/gloss spray?

I want to go for a P90 in the bridge and 2 Single Coils, or maybe S-P90-S, I've not decided yet, where can I get a pickguard with these arrangements that ships to the UK?

Oh, and finally, so you know, once the paint and neck are set, I'll be relicing the crapola out of it.


Just as a final thought, because this is my intention, would it just be simpler to find a used Squier Strat/Affinity strat and work that way rather than buying a kit?
#2
Quote by SMTHSCN
So I've always wanted a strat to go with my LP, so I can cover all bases, and I've also always wanted to build my own guitar so I'm going to take things easy to begin with and buy a Strat Kit to get me the body and the neck and then I'll worry about the parts as I go along.

I've got a few questions for along the way:

what paint is used on a fender body? I don't want to just paint it with something like spray paint cause it will look stupid and it will be too thick.

If I decide to just go "au natural" with the wood and simply stain it, will waxing the wood be sufficient, or will it need to be sealed with a satin/gloss spray?

I want to go for a P90 in the bridge and 2 Single Coils, or maybe S-P90-S, I've not decided yet, where can I get a pickguard with these arrangements that ships to the UK?

Oh, and finally, so you know, once the paint and neck are set, I'll be relicing the crapola out of it.


Just as a final thought, because this is my intention, would it just be simpler to find a used Squier Strat/Affinity strat and work that way rather than buying a kit?



Fender use PU and Nitro, although most standard models will be sprayed with PU. Spray cans can work perfectly well. You'll have more orange-peel to deal with, but the thickness of the paint is down to how much you spray on.

If you don't want to clear coat your stained body/neck, you can always use oil - Tru-Oil is easy to use and dries quick.

Not sure where you can buy a pre-made scratchplate with that pickup config. You could Google "scratchplates" and find somewhere that does custom scratchplates... just don't use this place http://www.auroraproject.co.uk/ as the quality is bad.
Last edited by KempGuitars at Aug 17, 2011,
#4
ok so here's my suggested kit for this project:

http://www.guitarfetish.com/Super-LIghtweight-Strat-Style-Kit-Maple-or-Rosewood_p_1203.html for the body and neck

the trem:

http://www.axesrus.com/Hardware/Terms/Vintage/Wilkinson/WVPCSB/WVPCSBAll.jpg (chrome)

the pickups:

(in the neck)
http://www.axesrus.com/axeP90s.htm# the axesrus early 50's P90

Middle and Bridge pickups:
http://www.axesrus.com/axepickup.htm#Scoils
Genuine Fender Vintage Noiseless Pickups

Now, I think there might be an issue with string spacing... Anyone have any ideas/reccomendations on similar/more suitable pickups/kit?

Please note I live in the UK, so UK shipping or UK based websites only!

For the Tuners, I'll go with some grovers, and I'll be putting a Corian Nut in the neck of the guitar


I think I am gonna paint the guitar cream, and go with a white or black scratch plate, and then I'm gonna relic the paint job and the neck!

If anyone can see an issue with string spacing on those pickups or anything else, please let me know!
#5
update:

looks like it is a lot cheaper just to buy a used squier strat and work that way,

would that be acceptable or can anyone see any problems that I might encounter? I gotta have a maple neck though!
#7
Quote by SMTHSCN



It would, it's sold specifically for spraying guitars. You'll also need to fill the grain (if necessary), acrylic or cellulose sanding sealer, cellulose based primer and nitro clear coat (lacquer) - that seller should sell the lacquer too.
Last edited by KempGuitars at Aug 18, 2011,
#8
if I want to apply this to a squier strat which is painted already, will I need to sand it all the way down to the wood, and then re apply a primer etc etc?
#9
If the body's existing finish is in good condition (eg. no chips, etc) then you should be able to get away with scuff sanding the existing finish (use 240 grit and then 400 grit wet&dry) and then shooting it with primer.

Edit: scuff sanding will simply remove the gloss finish, giving the primer a good surface to adhere to. You can also use this stage to get rid of any scratches - use a sanding block
Last edited by KempGuitars at Aug 18, 2011,
#10
cool thanks!

My intention is to relic is afterwards anyway, so if the painjob is scruffy it's not a big deal, I'm gonna sandblast some of the areas.

Could I acheive a satin finish with NC paint?
#11
Quote by SMTHSCN
cool thanks!

My intention is to relic is afterwards anyway, so if the painjob is scruffy it's not a big deal, I'm gonna sandblast some of the areas.

Could I acheive a satin finish with NC paint?



Search for satin nitrocellulose on eBay, use that instead
#12
hm, finding a maple necked squire strat is proving to be quite a challenge...

Question:

does it matter if I buy a bullet strat or affinity strat if I plan on modding everything anyway? Which is closer to a MIM Fender Strat?
#13
quick update:

I'm bidding on this body:

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=150650470634&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1438.l2649#ht_500wt_1156

I'll be sanding the paint down and respraying it with primer and an NC paint, probably cream colour. The Humbucker voids are useful for me cause I want to put a P90 in the bridge.

Question:

P90's only come in 50mm spacing, but a strat is spaced 52mm from bridge to neck, will this affect the sound a lot, or will I be able to get away with it?
#14
That will be an alder body, not agathis. It's not a bad quality body either, baring in mind it's a Squier.

Good luck with the project
#15
thanks a bunch man

looking to find an affordable neck which I can put a bone/brass nut onto, and been reading up on relicing the neck

I'm sort of at 2 minds about how heavily i want to relic it, especially if I go to the effort of respraying the body with an NC paint and a satin finish, it will age fast anyway
#16
mighty mite makes halfway decent strat spec necks... you might want to check that out.
Gear:
2003 Fender Standard Strat w/ Texas Specials
2010 EBMM BFR JP6
2012 Babicz Identity Dreadnaught
2015 Gibson Les Paul Traditional SR
Line 6 POD HD500
Peavey XXX 112
Fender Blues Jr
#17
Thanks for the tip I'll check them out! Hopefully the body will arrive soon so I can confirm the heel size and make sire I get the correct fitting neck

Got to get a SSS scratchplate too and route it out to fit a P90
#18
update:

It's proving to be a ****ing nightmare buying a Strat Body on eBay, so I am now just calling up all my local guitar stores looking for any used strat with an alder or better body and a Maple Fingerboard.

The plan is to use the wood, and salvage the scratchplate (if it's SSS) and the back plastic plate, then sell everything else off as parts.

The wood will get sanded down and re coated with NC paint and a satin finish

the neck will be relic'd lightly, (depending on the finish, hopefully amber varnish, as this looks fantastic when Relic'd

I've still got the issue of working out how to put a P90 in the bridge, as P90's attach directly to the body, and as far as I am aware, Strat pickups generally attach to the scratchplate only? Can anyone confirm that for me please?

Also, there is a small issue regarding the P90:

The string spacing on a P90 is only ever 50mm, whereas the string spacing at the neck of a Strat is generally 52mm,

will this pose a problem?
#19
Quote by SMTHSCN
update:

It's proving to be a ****ing nightmare buying a Strat Body on eBay, so I am now just calling up all my local guitar stores looking for any used strat with an alder or better body and a Maple Fingerboard.

The plan is to use the wood, and salvage the scratchplate (if it's SSS) and the back plastic plate, then sell everything else off as parts.

The wood will get sanded down and re coated with NC paint and a satin finish

the neck will be relic'd lightly, (depending on the finish, hopefully amber varnish, as this looks fantastic when Relic'd

I've still got the issue of working out how to put a P90 in the bridge, as P90's attach directly to the body, and as far as I am aware, Strat pickups generally attach to the scratchplate only? Can anyone confirm that for me please?

Also, there is a small issue regarding the P90:

The string spacing on a P90 is only ever 50mm, whereas the string spacing at the neck of a Strat is generally 52mm,

will this pose a problem?


^ correct.

What was the problem with the body on eBay? I've bought a few bodies on eBay before and then found no problem finding necks that fit.
#20
well, A lot of them are plywood, which I don't want, and I'm finding it hard to get a proper fender/squire one, and not a weird copy, plus, people are bidding waaaay too high for them.

I feel like £30 plus shipping should be how much I pay for a squire alder body
#21
Quote by SMTHSCN
well, A lot of them are plywood, which I don't want, and I'm finding it hard to get a proper fender/squire one, and not a weird copy, plus, people are bidding waaaay too high for them.

I feel like £30 plus shipping should be how much I pay for a squire alder body



I don't think I've ever paid more than that for a decent (Squier) alder body. Look out for the ones that have battered paintwork, if you're going to strip and refinish it then that won't matter to you - but it does put a lot of people off bidding if they're not looking to put in the work.

Don't think I'd be allowed to list a load of links to eBay, but I will PM you a couple of links shortly if it helps
#22
oh dude that would be a huge help, I think I am going to chemically remove the paint, we've got the stuff at home to do it, if there are any deep dings in the body it won't be too much of an issue, I plan on (eventually) relicing the paint job and the neck once the whole thing is put together
#23
Quote by SMTHSCN
oh dude that would be a huge help, I think I am going to chemically remove the paint, we've got the stuff at home to do it, if there are any deep dings in the body it won't be too much of an issue, I plan on (eventually) relicing the paint job and the neck once the whole thing is put together



No worries. I've already sent the PM - don't disregard the pink one... that's gonna put a lot of people off bidding

Good luck with those.
#24
thanks a million! I've added them all to my watch list, hopefully I get these before I move out back to uni, otherwise it's gonna be a hassle to strip them at uni...

I think I am gonna buy a dremel to do the relicing, as I think to paint the body and attach the neck, I don't really need a lot of tools at all, almost all of which I will have already
#25
You could also buy one on Guitar Fetish.
Quote by Most_Triumphant
Depends, I don't know what pickups go good with plywood. EMGs will make it sound like every other EMG guitar though.

Quote by JazzMunkeyy
it needs a silver flakes
and sara underwood
#27
update!

I've won 2 bodies on eBay,

1 is a solid Alder body which will be the main guitar and the one I will build nicely,

the other is a plywood body which the seller has kindly decided to throw in pickups, selector switch, pickguard, and strap pins for free, which will be relic'd to kingdom come.

Now that I have the 2 bodies, I thought body #2, the relic'd one, will go with a more conventional pickup system S-S-S

the Main one however, which is the more high end spec guitar I'm building, will now be

Seymour Duncan P rail Bridge, Axesrus Single Coil Middle, and an Axes r us P90 in the neck.

This baby is gonna growl.

It has risen a new question though... the P rail is going to have an extra 3 way switch so it can be wired for single coil rail, P-90 solo, or Humbucker of the 2 together. Should I just install a standard 5 way with this, or would it be more interesting to put in on off switches for each pick up individually?

Would anyone have experience with that/how to wire that up?
#29
Quote by SMTHSCN
quick update:

I'm bidding on this body:

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=150650470634&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1438.l2649#ht_500wt_1156

I'll be sanding the paint down and respraying it with primer and an NC paint, probably cream colour. The Humbucker voids are useful for me cause I want to put a P90 in the bridge.

Question:

P90's only come in 50mm spacing, but a strat is spaced 52mm from bridge to neck, will this affect the sound a lot, or will I be able to get away with it?


Go to BG Pups (on the internet) and buy there Pure90 Pickups, they are humbucker sized P90's with a P90 sized coils so its a proper P90 sound and including shipping to the uk they are only like $90 dollars for the bridge pickup. (the payment is safe to, the guy who makes them uses paypal) and his pickups are highly recommended
#31
I never see the point in deliberately wearing a guitar down, i've seen tonnes of people try it and very few ever look genuine. Only those done by professionals seem to be decent, even then why not add character and make your guitar truly unique and let it naturally wear.

Having said that, im looking forward to seeing the p90 in your strat. Im close to buying a squire strat of my friend to do up.

Does anyone know if its possible to cleanly remove the squire decal and replace it with a vintage fender one? Not for selling, just for my own personal use because i'll be building it to a fender spec accessories.
Always waiting for that bit of inspiration.
#32
Quote by SMTHSCN


It has risen a new question though... the P rail is going to have an extra 3 way switch so it can be wired for single coil rail, P-90 solo, or Humbucker of the 2 together. Should I just install a standard 5 way with this, or would it be more interesting to put in on off switches for each pick up individually?

Would anyone have experience with that/how to wire that up?


I would put a separate switch for the P-rail. Duncan also sells pup rings with a 3-way switch built in: http://www.seymourduncan.com/products/accessories/triple-shot-mou/triple_shot_swi/
That's probably your best bet.
#35


The front!



The back!

http://img109.imageshack.us/img109/4051/photo2fk.jpg[/IMG

Rear Cavity (are the screws supposed to be offset like that?)

http://img694.imageshack.us/img694/3559/photo3qoe.jpg

neck heel

http://img12.imageshack.us/img12/3382/photo5qny.jpg

Front cavity will need filling holes, and copper/tin shielding

I'll be stripping it tonight!
#36
Quote by SMTHSCN
Btw will paint stripper ea through the poly urethane coat or does that need sanding?


You won't get through the factory sealer with chemical strippers. Are you respraying or staining?

If you're respraying, you can keep the original sealer on and spray over that. Any chips through to the wood can be filled either by spot spraying with sealer, epoxy or superglue - sand flush with the original sealer and then shoot the whole body with primer.
#38
Quote by SMTHSCN
respraying, decided on Sonic Blue, found a guy who supplys NC paint in aerosol cans

Is the sealer the base coat? ie under the primer?


On factory finished guitars, the sealer is usually the basecoat (no primer used).

You can spray directly on to that if it's prepared properly (scuff sanded, etc) or use a primer first - unless you were going for a semi-opaque or trans finish, of course. I don't think you'll have any compatibility problems.
#39
I'll be putting a primer coat down regardless as I don't want to take any risks with the NC paint, I want this to look at nice as possible, I might make it a satin finish for the sonic blue guitar, so I'll use a very light grade wet/dry paper to get it to have that sheen,

alternatively, I could just spray a satin clear coat over the blue, what do you reckon?
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