#1
First off, my amp probably just has the heater wires from the power tranny mixed up or a bad impedance switch. I'm probably good there, but I would like to know:

Will I get no sound and no power tube light if I accidentally mixed up the wires for the heaters in my RM100? They're all crimp connectors and I should have labeled them or taken more pictures...


VTM: Bad filter cap, incinerated Molex connector in the power section, and possibly a bad power resistor. On top of that, all the pots need replacing. Two have broken shafts, and the others had knobs super glued on to them by some douche bag earlier on. They're CTS PC mount pots with black box type enclosures and some kind of extra supports built in to them (which me and my buddy Steve thought was AWESOME). We'll get pics of those tonight.

The Molex connector will be removed and the tranny leads hardwired to the board. There's this big blue ceramic cylinder that noether me or my friend can identify that looks like it might exploded in the past (there is a replacement in there) and caused the connector to melt.
Pics later tonight.

A filter cap on the preamp tube's board had a crusty blackened lead and left a brown skid mark all along its length on the board. It looks like a couple of resistors might have blown slightly in there too.

The filter caps in the preamp tube board are all 20uF, 400v. Should I pick up some Sprague Atom 100uF, 450v caps and replace them all? I've heard that there is no such thing as too much filtering in a tube amp.

Also, will a rectangular ceramic resistor be damaged if there's a corner chipped off?

Like said before, pics later tonight!
Then there's this band called Slice The Cake...

Bunch of faggots putting random riffs together and calling it "progressive" deathcore.
Stupid name.
Probably picked "for teh lulz"

Mod in UG's Official Gain Whores
Last edited by Shinozoku at Aug 19, 2011,
#2
You should be fine when mixing heater wires if its AC. If the heaters are powered with DC then you can mix up wires only before the rectifier.

For the VTM. Get pics. Get the schematic and replace all parts that have any trace of burning or other malfunction with identical type and identical or greater power rating. The nominal itself can be varied if theres trouble getting the exact part.
#3
I figured as much on the caps. Not sure about the current on the power supplies in the Randall though.

I'll get plenty of pics tonight since we put it mostly back together before doing anything (other than taking out the offending resistor) I can get a Sprague Atom 20uF 450v I think. Maybe 500v, I don't remember. I'll just up the voltage rating on all the caps on that board for a first big fix, and see if that helps things.
Then there's this band called Slice The Cake...

Bunch of faggots putting random riffs together and calling it "progressive" deathcore.
Stupid name.
Probably picked "for teh lulz"

Mod in UG's Official Gain Whores
#5
Thanks, Ippon!
Then there's this band called Slice The Cake...

Bunch of faggots putting random riffs together and calling it "progressive" deathcore.
Stupid name.
Probably picked "for teh lulz"

Mod in UG's Official Gain Whores
#6
I'm waiting to see pictures before I try to help too much. Does the blue ceramic thing you talked about look similar to a ceramic capacitor?

Sorta like this: http://i00.i.aliimg.com/photo/v0/219527814/Resistor_NTC_Thermistors_MF11_MF12_Compensation_NTC.jpg

If so that is an NTC and it is used to help produce a slow ramp up in the voltage. If it experiences excessively high currents it can pop.

It could also be a through hole fuse.

You shouldn't have any problems with sound if the heater wires are mixed up. If they are AC wires then either way will work. From what I remember about the schematic I saw of the RM100 the DC heaters were all 6 volts and only used to power the heaters so polarity wouldn't matter there either.
Last edited by XgamerGt04 at Aug 20, 2011,
#7
There is indeed one of those ceramic capacitors attached to ground, and a reddish cap that looks like a poly Xicon that has some burning on it right next to it.

However the big blue ceramic thing, according to a handy schematic I found is a 10w resistor! Must have blown pretty bad to melt that connector!

Sorry for the lack of pics, as this thread is somewhat useless without them, but I basically know everything that needs to be done now and what parts I need.

HOWEVER...

I can't FIND all the parts that I need/want in ONE place.

And in the case of replacement pots, in AMERICA!

I need to replace all the pots on this amp. As previously mentioned, they' all have superglue on them and two are broken. I could save money by replacing only the broken ones and trying acetone and elbow grease on the others, but if I'm replacing two I might as well replace them all.

Problem is, I can't even find a part that fits in America. Here's what the pots look like in the amp.
http://www.stagebeat.co.uk/P/118301/Peavey+Potentiometer+Spare+Part+1MEG+AUD+MIN+VP+31190522

The inherent problem is, I'm in America and not sure if I should ask Peavey for the replacement parts. On top of that, I intend to get a 25k mid pot instead of the stock 20k pot, to bring the amp closer to JCM800 specs for my buddy who owns it and I'm not sure if Peavey would replace that if I called...

Would I be best calling the company for these pots? Or is there a readily available supplier in the US I can order from?
Then there's this band called Slice The Cake...

Bunch of faggots putting random riffs together and calling it "progressive" deathcore.
Stupid name.
Probably picked "for teh lulz"

Mod in UG's Official Gain Whores
#8
Eh... no answers?

I'll just call Peavey I guess..
Then there's this band called Slice The Cake...

Bunch of faggots putting random riffs together and calling it "progressive" deathcore.
Stupid name.
Probably picked "for teh lulz"

Mod in UG's Official Gain Whores