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#1
Word of warning: this will probably be the slowest build you ever witness. Want to get an idea of how slow? Look at my sig. It's said that for months now.

EDIT: Told you it'd be slow. First post in nine months on page 3.

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As a poor college student I often find myself in terrible predicaments. Those predicaments usually involve me wanting shiny things. This can typically be fixed with things like eBay and Craigslist, but unfortunately for me it seems that PRS's MIA guitars retain their value exceptionally well. Next best solution? Do it myself. Create my own shiny thing.

Specs:

Body, Neck, and Dimensions
-Custom 24 based body style, not an exact replica however
-Honduran mahogany back, flame maple top
-Thin-bodied (~1 3/4" before carving and finish sanding)
-5-piece neck from Soulmate Guitars: Wenge/flame maple/wenge/fm/wenge
-Ebony fretboard, jumbo frets, abalone inlays
-25" scale length

Hardware
-GFS Sperzel-style locking tuners
-Hipshot Modern Hardtail bridge.
-Graphtech nut
-Some cheap chrome strap buttons
-Some cheap chrome string ferrules
-Cream pickup rings

Electronics - PRS DGT layout. Two volumes or bust!
-Rock Monkey Silverback bridge pickup
-Undecided neck pickup. Probably a Rock Monkey Blackback.
-Bourns Model 95 500k Audio Taper pots x 2 (volumes)
-CTS 500k Push/Pull Linear Taper x1 (tone)
-If push/pull doesn't fit then CTS 500k linear pot + mini toggle switch
-Switchcraft 3-way Toggle
-Switchcraft Mono output jack

Pics to follow.
Last edited by Seref at Jun 3, 2012,
#2
Like all guitars, this one starts it's life as a humble board of dead tree. Honduran Mahogany net 1", not 4/4. To be sawn in half, jointed, and glued to form a 2-piece body.



Unfortunately I failed to take any pictures of the flame maple top before sawing/gluing/shaping, so you'll have to use your imaginations.

Using this:



With the wood plus this:



And this:



And one of these:



We get this:



The screws were put (in places that will be drilled/routed out. don't worry) to hold the two boards together so we could cut the body our and edge sand it simultaneously. They also aid in alignment for glue time.

Speaking of which, glue time. I gave it some clamps. Bitches love clamps:

Last edited by Seref at Jun 3, 2012,
#3
It's too late to get any pictures of the neck with halfway decent lighting so here's a little teaser until a later date:

#6
My intention is to stain/dye it similar to that blue PRS but without the black burst. Not a fan of PRS bursts--the tops are too sexay to cover the edges with black.

EDIT: And it seems I've run into my first problem. Glue's pretty much dry already (gonna leave it overnight though) and there are some gaps between the body and top woods. Le sigh.
Last edited by Seref at Aug 28, 2011,
#7
So much love for dragonburst on this site!

I vote dark blue, black around the edges... not that I just did a build like that and it looks sexy as hell or anything....

Good luck!
Ball Custom Mark I

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#8
Quote by ma_tt11
So much love for dragonburst on this site!

I vote dark blue, black around the edges... not that I just did a build like that and it looks sexy as hell or anything....

Good luck!



AFAIK there's never been a really good build with it here though... (that dragonburst LP that was here that one time with the dude in love with his luthier or something wasn't really that good tbh)
#9
Quote by Wisthekiller
AFAIK there's never been a really good build with it here though... (that dragonburst LP that was here that one time with the dude in love with his luthier or something wasn't really that good tbh)


Link please?

And I like the the blue with black burst aswell. You could stain the burst transperent black . Are you going to do the bird inlays? And also, NEED. MORE. PICTURES. OF. NECK.
#10
Quote by da_
Link please?

And I like the the blue with black burst aswell. You could stain the burst transperent black . Are you going to do the bird inlays? And also, NEED. MORE. PICTURES. OF. NECK.


https://www.ultimate-guitar.com/forum/showthread.php?t=1193737


And that blue thing is good. Not as good as dragonburst, but will be jizz inducing.
#11
I'm really not a fan of bursts unless they're traditional red/orange/yellow/brown bursts. I'm pretty conservative when it comes to aesthetics.
Last edited by Seref at Aug 28, 2011,
#14
Haha everyones trying to turn you into a burst man. I understand what you mean though. It will look amazing ether way espeshly if its going to be blue. Blue PRS's are the best kind of PRS's haha.
Oh and thatnks for the link Wisthekiller.
#15
Dragonburst is so gaudy/cheesy.

Fastest way to ruin a guitar, IMO.
Quote by SteveHouse
This thread is officially about sucking Sleaze off for a sig.


Quote by tayroar
Hey Sleaze I'll give you a blowjob if you sig me. Maybe even some nudey photos?


Quote by crazy8rgood


Sleaze, that made me lulz in my pants.


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hahaha Sleaze i'd give you my mom for that one.
#16
charcoal burst would be amazing too:
anyway looks great so far man looking forward to see it finnished, nomatter your gonna do with that top
#17
Wooaahaaa..The guitar above is kinda freakin me out... i can figure if its a les paul or a prs singlecut...
#19
I vote for the Dragon Burst
or Dark red with black
"It's not about who has the biggest stick, it's about how hard you can swing it"
#20
Quote by n1ckn1ce
Wooaahaaa..The guitar above is kinda freakin me out... i can figure if its a les paul or a prs singlecut...


That one's a Les Paul. You can tell cause the upper bout on PRS SCs tend to be more angular and the body carves aren't rounded all the way around.

Anyway, I'm kinda bummed about the gap that formed between the two body woods. I'll get some pictures when I get home. The gap is about as thick as a credit card (maybe a tad less) and runs along the bottom left part of the body. I'm guessing I'll have to find some matching woodfiller and go at it.
#21
Quote by Seref
That one's a Les Paul. You can tell cause the upper bout on PRS SCs tend to be more angular and the body carves aren't rounded all the way around.

Anyway, I'm kinda bummed about the gap that formed between the two body woods. I'll get some pictures when I get home. The gap is about as thick as a credit card (maybe a tad less) and runs along the bottom left part of the body. I'm guessing I'll have to find some matching woodfiller and go at it.


on the mahog theres a gap?
if youre planning on putting a cap over it, then its not that big of a deal because it wont be seen except on the ends.
if the edges are going to be solid, than any color woodfiller is fine. if its going to be transparent, match the color but remember that any woodfiller (whether it says it does or not) will NOT accept stains or dyes like wood will, so you cant dye it.
if its seen from the back, you have a few options. if its a solid color on the back, then woodfiller is fine again. if you want transparent, then same as the sides, no dying or staining.. or you can route for a strip of binding, which would be my favorite option.
#22
It's not a Les Paul, it's a Nik Huber.

And it's gorgeous
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You have amazing taste in men.


Are You a PROG-HEAD? I am.
#23
Quote by xadioriderx
on the mahog theres a gap?
if youre planning on putting a cap over it, then its not that big of a deal because it wont be seen except on the ends.
if the edges are going to be solid, than any color woodfiller is fine. if its going to be transparent, match the color but remember that any woodfiller (whether it says it does or not) will NOT accept stains or dyes like wood will, so you cant dye it.
if its seen from the back, you have a few options. if its a solid color on the back, then woodfiller is fine again. if you want transparent, then same as the sides, no dying or staining.. or you can route for a strip of binding, which would be my favorite option.


It's a gap between the mahogany body and maple cap, I think as a result of me using too much glue. I was intending on leaving the mahogany natural, so that's good. Only part getting stained/dyed is the top.

So yeah. Mahogany-colored woodfiller and gratuitous sanding.
#24
ohh, yeah i had that issue last time too. was an issue of not enough clamps for me. one option is binding, the other is wood filler. im not positive, but in my experience with wood filler in a crack is it will leave a line after finishing still. it looked like in my case it shrank some or something... not sure if its typical or not
#25
Quote by xadioriderx
ohh, yeah i had that issue last time too. was an issue of not enough clamps for me. one option is binding, the other is wood filler. im not positive, but in my experience with wood filler in a crack is it will leave a line after finishing still. it looked like in my case it shrank some or something... not sure if its typical or not


Yeah I'm just going to try some run-of-the-mill mahogany colored filler, and if it doesn't look presentable enough I guess I'll just paint the back and sides. Shame, the mahogany back came out perfect--can't even see the glue line from the 2 joined pieces. Binding isn't an option as the guitar will have a natural binding.

Some spots came out perfectly joined:



Some had a tiny bit of separation:



And lastly, the enormous ugly gap:



#27
Ouch, that last one hurts... Well, that's a lesson learned- always get more clamps. Especially around the edges. For future reference- you can make your own edge clamps with scrap wood, threaded rods, nuts and washers.
#29
Quote by xadioriderx
you may be able to still clamp it down more. have you tried? if you can, get some gorilla glue in there and clamp it down some. let the glue expand and fill


I tried to clamp it (without glue) earlier but I used 2 clamps, saw no difference, and got discouraged. Tried again with 4 and there was much improvement.

Attacked the crevice with glue (I have gorilla glue, but not their wood glue. Instead I used titebond ii) and a paperclip to get the glue into the space. Clamped it with the strength of a million men (or, two men) and now we wait.

Best case it works. Worst case I have to find something to shove in there to make it less painful to look at.

#30
Hope it works out ok.

Also, dragonburst? Green into blue?

Are you people out of your gourd?
Quote by SleepTalkinMan
"Ooh! Straight-jackets online! Christmas sorted."
#31
i dont use gorilla wood glue, just the normal stuff, but hopefully it works out, did you get much glue in? itll probably take a decent amount to hold if theres any pressure holding it upwards. heck you could put a bunch of glue in, then some woodfiller along the edge, THEN clamp it down, so the woodfiller is snug inside. but maybe thats overkill.. lol

let us know how it goes!
#32
Well, I let it sit in its clamps for a good long time before slowly removing them, and the glue held. That enormous gap is now flush with the body.

The several smaller gaps much much smaller than the one I needed to glue. I can probably fix with filler and not really see a difference since it will be such a small amount,
#34
Later. Specifically, before cavities but after and after post-glue profiling. I'm still deciding if I'll use my router or go back to the edge sander for that job. Once that is done carving will begin, then cavities, neck pocket, and drilling.
#37
Looking good man! I just finished a PRS-esque build so if you have any questions PM me or whatever. Also, I'd recommend doing all the pickup cavities and everything before you carve the top. It will make things A LOT easier.
#38
I might reverse it then. I wanted to carve before routing 'cause I'm going to be doing the routing on a table router at a friend's workshop free of charge (that's how I have access to all the big fancy machines) and I wanted to give the appearance that I did something other than just glue wood together before forcing him to open up for me on a Saturday again :P
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