#1
I have a Jackson RR3 and a Kramer Assault 220, both have Floyd Rose.

The action on the Kramer is about 2cm (1/12.5 of an inch or 0.7 inches) all across the neck on on both the high and low e. It feels great and is effortless to play.

Set to the lowest action the strings on the Jackon are 2cm at the first fret, 3cm at the 5th fret and 4cm at the 12th-22th fret. When I try do some sweeping on it it's like pressing guitar hero buttons!

When I got the Jackson I didn't even have the action as low as it could go but now I find it almost unplayable and hardly ever play it which is a shame cause it's a great guitar. Since buying it I have put a 4th spring in the back and started using 10-46 (next time I chage strings I will be putting on 9-42). I didn't adjust the truss rod when I put on the 10s and extra spring.

Anyway, I am wondering if I can get the action on the Jackson down to about 2cm over the whole neck. I am guessing I have to adjust the truss rod.


Here are some pics
Neck: http://oi55.tinypic.com/2hgekag.jpg
1st fret http://oi56.tinypic.com/racdu0.jpg
22nd fret http://oi51.tinypic.com/akvq5s.jpg

Would really appreciate any help I can get.
#3
There's no way you actually mean Cm. That would be rediculous.
2mm is low though. You can only go so low before you get buzzing, just have to ask yourself how much buzzing you can accept. I hate all buzz and want EVERY note to be as pure as it can be, so I have my action around 2mm at the 12th fret.

Your action looks super low as it is, I doubt you could get it much lower than that without a bunch of buzz.
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Last edited by Tango616 at Sep 8, 2011,
#4
Quote by ethan_hanus
Cm? You must mean mm, even 1 cm action is wayyyy to high. 2 mm action is plenty low, why would you want it lower?

To lower it, you would have to adjust each saddle lower, don't mess with the truss rod if the neck is straight.


I must be on the crazy pills I meant mm. Also forgot to mention I don't want the action lower on the Kramer 2mm is fine (The saddles on the Kramer aren't even as low as they can go).

The Jackson is only 2mm until the 5th fret. From the 12th fret onwards it's at 4mm which is too high. The saddle on the Jackson cannot go any lower, which is why I think adjusting the truss rod may help but the neck already seems straight so I have no idea how to get the action on the higher frets lower (to 2mm).
#5
Quote by MegadethFan18
I must be on the crazy pills I meant mm. Also forgot to mention I don't want the action lower on the Kramer 2mm is fine (The saddles on the Kramer aren't even as low as they can go).

The Jackson is only 2mm until the 5th fret. From the 12th fret onwards it's at 4mm which is too high. The saddle on the Jackson cannot go any lower, which is why I think adjusting the truss rod may help but the neck already seems straight so I have no idea how to get the action on the higher frets lower (to 2mm).


Sounds like a truss rod issue to me.
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#6
truss rod adjustment. Be careful.
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#7
Use a straight edge like a ruler to check how straight your neck actually is. A little bow is normal, but what you described seems like the neck ain't as straight as you think it is.
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#8
Quote by MegadethFan18
I must be on the crazy pills I meant mm. Also forgot to mention I don't want the action lower on the Kramer 2mm is fine (The saddles on the Kramer aren't even as low as they can go).

The Jackson is only 2mm until the 5th fret. From the 12th fret onwards it's at 4mm which is too high. The saddle on the Jackson cannot go any lower, which is why I think adjusting the truss rod may help but the neck already seems straight so I have no idea how to get the action on the higher frets lower (to 2mm).


Yeah, sounds like a truss rod issue, typically you can never get your action a perfect 2mm all the way down the neck, it may be 2mm at the 5th, and 3mm past the 12th.

Sounds like you just need a very minor tightening of the truss rod.
#9
Oh my

That's a truss rod issue then, don't worry about it broski though, just quarter turns, let it sit, repeat. Don't let adjusting the truss rod scare you like you're going to break the neck, you'll be fine, just don't push super hard.
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#11
Quote by Kindred_Future
Use a straight edge like a ruler to check how straight your neck actually is. A little bow is normal, but what you described seems like the neck ain't as straight as you think it is.


Good idea. I thought the neck might not be straight but I uploaded the pic so everyone could have a look.
#12
http://www.igdb.co.uk/pages/guitar_setup/truss_rod.htm

Read that webpage and understand it before making adjustments. The truss rod is nothing to be afraid of, but it's stupid to start adjusting it not knowing what you are looking for, that's just asking for trouble. You don't even need a straight edge to check your bow, you can use the string, it tells you how in the link. If it's set where it's supposed to be, leave it, it's not for adjusting action, it's for adjusting the bow in the neck to counter string tension.
#13
Quote by W4RP1G

8<
If it's set where it's supposed to be, leave it, it's not for adjusting action, it's for adjusting the bow in the neck to counter string tension.



It isn't indeed there to adjust the 'overall' action but it can solve the 'differences' of the action between parts of the neck since this is a direct consequence of straightening the neck.
Just because I have some strong opinions doesn't mean I agree with everything I say.
#14
Look up FruduaTV on youtube. He has a channel with a collection of videos on how to set up a guitar. I recommend you watch them all and pay close attention before you do it yourself. Though its not hard to do so dont be intimidated, but surely seek out some instruction.
#15
to do it short and easy, put a capo on the first fret, push down the fret where the neck meets the body (usually around 17), and you want enough clearance between the fret and the string to slip a business card through in between the fret and the string.

if the gap is different, you need to make an adjustment. if the gap is too big turn right if there is a back bow to the neck to straighten it out, left if the gap is too small to add relief.

i dont necessarily recommend that to the beginner, but thats what i do for my guitars, and have done for a long time.
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#16
Quote by trashedlostfdup
to do it short and easy, put a capo on the first fret, push down the fret where the neck meets the body (usually around 17), and you want enough clearance between the fret and the string to slip a business card through in between the fret and the string.

if the gap is different, you need to make an adjustment. if the gap is too big turn right if there is a back bow to the neck to straighten it out, left if the gap is too small to add relief.

i dont necessarily recommend that to the beginner, but thats what i do for my guitars, and have done for a long time.


This. And this is also the best check to see if the neck is straight on both axis.
Just because I have some strong opinions doesn't mean I agree with everything I say.
#17
I have been playing 3 years and as I thought I would need to adjust the truss rod when put 10s on the Jackson I aready read up on/watched videos about the truss rod so I know how to do it (need to refresh my memoruy though). It may be that putting in the extra springs and the 10s has caused this so once I put some 9s on I'll report back. Hopefully I won't need to adjust anything.

Thanks for the input guys