#1
Hey guys, so I finally bit the bullet on buying the Gotoh LFR to replace my Edge III in my RG370DX. I know there is some wood work to be done but I have a few questions.

The bridge almost fits in the cavity, its just slightly off, going to need some edge dremeling, not a big deal, only problem i routing a small vein out for my D-Tuna.

The new trem posts are probably 25% larger than the Edge III's so I'll need to drill out and epoxy the new ones in but I am just worried about the strings lining up on the neck properly. Is the Gotoh and Edge III lined up similarly so that I just have to make sure the post heads are in the same position? Or are there some technical drawings for the edge I can look at (Gotoh already has theirs)?

If there is anything major I am missing out on please point it out to me, I want to get this install right and done good!


BTW: Does the Gotoh come with the trem arm? Mine didn't.
#2
Quote by cmmcnamara
Hey guys, so I finally bit the bullet on buying the Gotoh LFR to replace my Edge III in my RG370DX. I know there is some wood work to be done but I have a few questions.

The bridge almost fits in the cavity, its just slightly off, going to need some edge dremeling, not a big deal, only problem i routing a small vein out for my D-Tuna.

The new trem posts are probably 25% larger than the Edge III's so I'll need to drill out and epoxy the new ones in but I am just worried about the strings lining up on the neck properly. Is the Gotoh and Edge III lined up similarly so that I just have to make sure the post heads are in the same position? Or are there some technical drawings for the edge I can look at (Gotoh already has theirs)?

If there is anything major I am missing out on please point it out to me, I want to get this install right and done good!


BTW: Does the Gotoh come with the trem arm? Mine didn't.



It does. If you didn't get it then go back to where you bought it from and ask them for a replacement.
#3
You can't have the bridge float if you're putting a D-Tuna on it, just a heads up.
I play Lacrosse, you should too
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Aww shucks...

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#4
Quote by Metalfan41
You can't have the bridge float if you're putting a D-Tuna on it, just a heads up.

+1
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#5
No, I understand the whole thing with the D-Tuna, it has to be dive only when in D, but I'll be getting a Tremel-No for that purpose. Problem is when I'm not playing in D, I want to be able to do pull ups and the added length of the D-Tuna will require a recess for that to happen. I also contacted my seller about the arm. The thing I'm still stuck on though is the positioning of the trem posts to install this thing. I hate to get it on and have the strings not in place properly. Any suggestions out there?
#6
When aligning any FR with the neck/centreline, the measurements used relate to the centre of the studs/posts. Therefore, if you drill out holes precisely, you are still centred.

However, you might want to measure the Edge post spacing because I have it feeling it might be 73mm, whereas the Gotoh trem is 74mm - you can check this yourself. If this is the case, to be 100%, you could fill the existing holes with hard wood dowel and redrill from scratch.
#7
^I believe that is right, but if you wanna make sure then I'd undo one of the intonation screws, move the saddle as far forwards as it'll go and then measure from the imaginary line between the posts to the place where the string will leave the saddle. Do this for both. I'd guess they'll be very similar.
#8
Ok so I checked it out and yes the Edge III measures 73mm and Gotoh is 74mm. I need to do more measuring, but assuming the string spacing is the same on the two, which it does appear but I'll have to measure, as long as the saddles line up the same, I'lll just need to drop the posts in accordingly so the saddles endup in the same spot as the Edge III's did. Also, I don't know if it makes a difference but Gotoh lists their nut at 43mm and Ibanez claims their's 42.90mm. Is this going to cause any alarm? Hopefully I'll have pics up in a couple days!
#9
^The Gotoh has a straight knife edge on one side, right? Then the post spacing doesn't need to be a problem. I don't know if it'll have a noticeable impact on string alignment on the neck, but it can't be more than .5 mm at most and probably way less.
#10
Quote by Pikka Bird
^The Gotoh has a straight knife edge on one side, right? Then the post spacing doesn't need to be a problem. I don't know if it'll have a noticeable impact on string alignment on the neck, but it can't be more than .5 mm at most and probably way less.



+1 Just pulled out a Gotoh trem I have and this is correct, I'd try out Pikka Bird's suggestion first.

As for the width of the nut, that won't matter. It's a fraction of a mil... Besides, many nuts on the market measure a fraction under their advertised width.
#11
Ok cool sounds easy enough now, just got get to routing and get my baby up and playing again. I really appreciate all the help you guys have offered, I'll post pics soon!
#13
Have you measured to make sure the Gotoh isn't too long for the route? I've seen someone replace a LoTRS with a Gotoh and the string lock nuts were too long for the cavity. And if you put in the Gotoh studs that will push it back another few mils. As for the block, 0.1mm isn't even a visible difference so it will fit fine.
I play Lacrosse, you should too
Quote by reeses
heed this man's suggestion, for he is wise.

Aww shucks...

Quote by Tom 1.0
Oh and wait for the Schecter fan boys, if you listen real hard you can already hear them coming.
#14
So I started a little dremeling....and not half bad! I basically just rounded the side segments of the cavity a bit so that the corners won't scrape off the base plate. But that's really it at this point, I just wanted to get an idea on the fit so far and it looks promising.

I'm not worried about the length of the Gotoh I know I already at least need a route for the D-Tuna's added length. I've been looking at pics of OFR's factory installed and it looks like their route for the added length of the lock screws is pretty long past the lock screws which I gather is so your can fit your allen wrench in to loosen. I'm gonna go look at some OFR's in person to look at this route more though because I'm not sure I even have to go that far because once the bridge is in and settled on the posts I think the lock screws might be above the cavity and still accessible by the allen wrench. I'll just have to dremel out 3-4mm for clearance on pull ups.

I do have a question about the posts though....are they press fit into the wood or are they epoxied in? It looks like the Edge's were press fit in and I think it was because I was just able to remove them with pliers. I know epoxying is quite a bit more permanent solution but I don't see myself swapping bridges for anything else. Or should I even bother with the new posts? The old ones do look worn and of lesser quality but likewise I need to bore out at least a 15% larger diameter hole to even get a resistance fit going for the larger new ones. Epoxy seem to be a bad idea?
#15
I would put in the Gotoh posts since they lock and are probably made with better steel that won't wear out. No need to glue them in, you just make the hole slightly smaller than it needs to be and the insertss will never wiggle loose. And since the posts lock you can take the bridge off and not worry about them moving up or down.
I play Lacrosse, you should too
Quote by reeses
heed this man's suggestion, for he is wise.

Aww shucks...

Quote by Tom 1.0
Oh and wait for the Schecter fan boys, if you listen real hard you can already hear them coming.