#1
Ok.
I am a full time student with a lot (to me at least) of commitments, so this build will definitely be taking a while. However there is no time limit on me this time, so I am hoping it will turn out better than my last! (Seen here)

http://img29.yfrog.com/gal.php?g=rimg1307.jpg

Gotta improve on that :P
First up I am making the neck – here is my design for the fretboard – body’s going to be a strat, possibly blue burst quilt. Gold hard ware, tremolo
I am gonna be asking questions about pretty much every bit of the neck (never done one before) so here is the first set of queries:

• I have fretboard bit of wood…. So what do I do?

If I had to guess then it would be to:
Plane it to (insert width here – please), mark out the nut and measure out its shape and cut it out. Then mark out fret positions, cut em, dremel out inlay space, fill with inlay, radius , sand down, fret, radius frets.

Am I rite?

• When designing my inlays do I want them to bump up to the slot I have cut for the fret or only just disappear under the width up the fret once its on - in other words do I want to leave some width between my inlay and the inlay that will be covered by the fret?

• Can I put a vintage rod in under the fretboard?
I am thinking route out a slot that is as deep as the deepest point of the cut needed from the fretboard side of the neck (without it on yet), put in a strip of maple so that it turns it into a curve, put the rod in then fill over with the corresponding curved piece sand it flat, put the fretbard on top. Would that work? Or should I just use a double rod – the reason that I don’t want to are tone and just the experience of using a vintage one. No jigs allowed BTW, no space for them!

http://www.warmoth.com/Guitar/necks/trussrods.aspx

My idea for getting the curve - green bits represent wood thats stuck in after the router has gone through.



Pics of my wood, because some piccies are needed in any build thread.





And the fetboard design, just a quick sketch from last night, gonna do a tidy one and cut up the shapes this afternoon. (bottom one)


Perhaps now you can see why its called a magi-caster? I also dont know how busy to make the colourscheme - do I go for solver and gold mop or a full blown scheme usign these : http://www.smallwonder-music.co.uk/shop/Alternative-Inlay/c-1-116/

Thanks for any help. I tried to set that out in a none-confuzzling manner!

And thanks!

Time on earth is like butterscotch; you really want more, even though it will probably just make you ill.



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Last edited by IYanoplathizoI at Oct 8, 2011,
#2
Quote by IYanoplathizoI
Then mark out fret positions, dremel out inlay, fill with inlay, sand down, fret.
Have you an accurate way of cutting the fret slots? For simplicity I would go with a slotted fretboard for the first neck.

Quote by IYanoplathizoI
When designing my inlays do I want them to bump up to the slot I have cut for the fret
Leave a gap if possible, you want the fret tang to bite into wood rather than inlay incase you crack the inlay.


Quote by IYanoplathizoI
Can I put a vintage rod in under the fretboard? No jigs allowed BTW, no space for them!
Use a modern 2 way trussrod, they use flat bottom slots, much easier to install.


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#3
Quote by Absent Mind
Have you an accurate way of cutting the fret slots? For simplicity I would go with a slotted fretboard for the first neck.

I am gonna grab one of these : http://www.stewmac.com/shop/Fretting_supplies/Saws_and_slots/Fret_Slotting_Saw_System.html Part of the point of this build for me is doing the long haul, from wood to axe.
Quote by Absent Mind

Leave a gap if possible, you want the fret tang to bite into wood rather than inlay incase you crack the inlay.

Im not using super thin frets so that should be ok.
Quote by Absent Mind

Use a modern 2 way trussrod, they use flat bottom slots, much easier to install.

So the curved insert plan is definitely not doable? Any particular reason apart from just more work. I am willing to put lots of that in and would like to go for the nice old style tone here.

Thanks very much for the advice

Time on earth is like butterscotch; you really want more, even though it will probably just make you ill.



Certified lurker
Last edited by IYanoplathizoI at Oct 8, 2011,
#5
Quote by IYanoplathizoI
So the curved insert plan is definitely not doable? Any particular reason apart from just more work. I am willing to put lots of that in and would like to go for the nice old style tone here.



There's an easier way of doing the curved bottom thing. Set up your router to pass through at the normal channel's depth. Then reset the router to the bottom of the curved channel's depth and run another pass about 1/3 of the channels length, centered. If you're wanting a literal curved bottom you could then bust out a micro chisel or some crafty sandpaper work. Both ways function the same and you'll be the only person to ever know the difference since the fretboard will be glued to the top.

As far as adding the skunk stripe, I'm not really sure. I haven't built a neck with one and I'm sure the method I would instinctively try wouldn't be the 'correct' way
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