#1
http://www.thegearpage.net/board/showthread.php?p=11634636#post11634636

thats where i made the original thread, and i can't re-do it all right now because i'm on my iphone, but i need help re-wiring my jay turser serpent. the toggle was making scratchy sounds to the amp, so i'm replacing it, but i forgot to take a picture of how it was wired.


i'm assuming the shielding all goes to the outside thingy (totally don't know the name), and the black goes in the middle slot?
#2
look up www.guitarelectronics.com they have complete wireing diagrams on their site for free.
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Marshall JCM2000 DSL100
Krank 1980 Jr 20watt
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#3
The shielding is ground and all goes on that one on the side by itself
Then the black (to the output jack right?) goes in the middle, then the red and blue (volumes hopefully) go on either side.

EDIT: http://seymourduncan.com/support/wiring-diagrams/schematics.php?schematic=2h_2v_2t_3w

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Last edited by jthm_guitarist at Oct 15, 2011,
#5
What went wrong?
2002 PRS CE22
2013 G&L ASAT Deluxe
2009 Epiphone G-400 (SH-4)
Marshall JCM2000 DSL100
Krank 1980 Jr 20watt
Krank Rev 4x12 (eminence V12)
GFS Greenie/Digitech Bad Monkey
Morley Bad Horsie 2
MXR Smart Gate
#6
middle position seemed to work fine, but bridge position didn't make a single sound, and the neck position by itself sounded much more quiet than it should.
#8
Does your togle look like a plastic/metal case is surrounding it (on the bottom part)?

Alot of the cheaper budget guitars use that type.
2002 PRS CE22
2013 G&L ASAT Deluxe
2009 Epiphone G-400 (SH-4)
Marshall JCM2000 DSL100
Krank 1980 Jr 20watt
Krank Rev 4x12 (eminence V12)
GFS Greenie/Digitech Bad Monkey
Morley Bad Horsie 2
MXR Smart Gate
#10
I have never use that kind of 3 way, I use the USA spec type.

Anyone else care to chime in and help.
2002 PRS CE22
2013 G&L ASAT Deluxe
2009 Epiphone G-400 (SH-4)
Marshall JCM2000 DSL100
Krank 1980 Jr 20watt
Krank Rev 4x12 (eminence V12)
GFS Greenie/Digitech Bad Monkey
Morley Bad Horsie 2
MXR Smart Gate
#11


thats what the wiring looks like. i messaged jay turser, but it took them 2 weeks to answer my last question.
#12
i'm guessing the "white" wires is the "hot" wiring, and the wire surrounding it is the shielding?
#13
I was just guessing at what color wire is what, you need to follow them and find out what is what. The one on the side by itself is definitely ground, and I don't see why the other side wouldn't be
pickup | output | pickup

but yes the shielding is ground and white is hot.

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#14
like an idiot i didn't check which wires were which. the output jack was the red wire, damn asian factory.


well, i found the same ja brand switch off ebay and bought it for 2 bucks, so no big loss. it'll just take a week to get this done.
#16
Quote by 00_hns_00
i'm guessing the "white" wires is the "hot" wiring, and the wire surrounding it is the shielding?


Yes, which is rare to see factory in a guitar, since it's more expensive compared to your non shielded wire. You see that lug sitting there all by itself? You should solder the shielding braid of each wire to that, it'll help protect it against interference. But you have to send another wire from that single lug to your volume pot, otherwise it's useless. Unless the shielding braid is already attached to the volume pot on the other side of the wire.


The only way shielding wire works is if only one side is grounded, if you ground both sides, it acts as another wire, and not a shielding wire.

You can reuse switches as long as you don't burn them up soldering them. It should only take liek 2 seconds to get the solder and switch hot enough for the solder to stick. Your solder blobs should give a shinny appearance, if they don't, wait for the switch to cool off, and give it more heat, until it looks shinny.

Too hot and you burn the switch, too cold and you risk creating a cold solder joint and it breaking on you.
#19
In all of this, keep the centre white wires from all the red, blue and black coated cables as short as possible. Only expose enough required to do the job from within the shield braid. Exposing long lengths of the central hot conductor acts as an antenna for stray noise. The longer the exposed hots are, the more noise you'll pickup.

Terminate the outer shielding braid of all 3 cables to the switch body lug.

Unless you've completely baked the switch from gross overheating while soldering (causeing visible browning or warping) you can reuse the switch. Don't see why you thought you needed to get another one. Just unsolder what you've done and go again.

But make sure that the switch you have matches the original toggle switch function. Left or right positions closes the contact between the middle and one or the other of the end lugs. Middle position closes contacts between the middle lug and BOTH end lugs at the same time.
#20
Wow yeah that must've been some burn. Turn down your iron if you can or lrn2solder (sorry lol)

But $2 for a switch! Great deal.

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#21
Other than the switch must have gotten ridiculously hot, I'd say the switch also was a low quality one. Get a good Switchcraft 3 way and you'll be set for years. Simpler to wire, too.
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#22
well, when i de-soldered it, i for some stupid reason put enough pressure on the terminal and bent it. so when i removed the solder i tried to straighten it by hand... and snapped it. thats why i need a new one.

but i was set out 2 dollars (plus like 3$ shipping). so no biggy.


i guess i heated it up to the point that it got flimsy, idk.