I just scalloped out the last 6 "frets" and then i smoothed by steel wool and used murphy oil 3:1 ratio with water to clean it, dried it and used my guitar polish to polish it... but its still white looking, kinda like its dry or ashy. Anyone have any suggestions?
GHS fast-fret cleaner, I had the same problem after i did my frets put that shit on there and the guitar looks great
They have finish on them. You cut down to unfinished wood, now you need to find similar finishing (which I can't suggest because I don't know of any at all). Polish isn't the same as varnish or some other finishing.
What wood is the fretboard?
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If it's rosewood it'll be red or brown with visible lines in the grain

If it's maple it'll be white(ish) yellow.

If it's total crap and has a died fretboard then when you file into it it's not going to look anything like it did to begin with.

My guess is you have rosewood because even cheap peavy guitars are not bad at all. What you need to do is oil your fretboard with synthetic oil from a luthier supply store like lmi or you need to put a drop or two (no more because that will hurt your fretboard) of linseed oil on a Q tip. Next wipe the Q tip on your fretboard and wipe off the sheen with a dry paper towel as quick as you can. Do this fret by fret until the whole fretboard has been oiled. After that, it should look fine.

I like the synthetic oil better simply because it's easier to use. You can wipe it on your whole fretboard before wiping off the extra and that saves a lot of time. Plus, the synthetic oils are non toxic when linseed oil is toxic.
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can i do the same method wih murphey soad/oil? Cause thats all i have
Last edited by NewYngwie at Oct 16, 2011,
Probably not. The type of oil you use is important because some get sticky and others get rancid. Neither are things you want to happen to your fretboard. I don't know what murphey soad oil uses so I can't give you a firm "no" but chances are, there is something in it that you don't want on your guitar.
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If you have a rosewood fretboard then I think the polish is giving you the trouble. Before you scalloped it the opening of the pores were in a single curved plane (non-Euclidean ftw ) . Now that you've scalloped them the openings are a lot more 3 dimensional, which would pick up the polishing compound and wouldn't be able to 'dump' it as easily.

Ever sanded with heavier grit (40-60) before? If you sand for a bit and then blow on the paper you'll 'dump' out a lot of dust trapped between the sand particles. It's the same idea, except the surface isn't as gritty and you have pits instead of lumps.
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