#1
what is the difference between those two strings?? because when I bought them thinking it was D'addario 80/20 strings but last night I noticed they are not. My guitar is Epiphone PR150 Acoustic if it helps
Current Guitar:
- Epiphone PR-150 Acoustic Guitar
- Fender Squire Strat Electric Guitar
#2
although d'addario says differently, my experience is that 80/20's are brighter sounding. i prefer the sound of pb's, and every guitar manufacturer that i've queried about what strings their guitar comes with has told me they come with phosphor bronze.
Quote by Skeet UK
I just looked in my Oxford English Dictionary and under "Acoustic Guitar", there was your Avatar and an email address!
#3
For whatever reason, 80/20s are a buck more. I suppose that's a discernible difference, although certainly not a musical consideration....

http://www.musiciansfriend.com/accessories/daddario-exp11-coated-80-20-bronze-light-acoustic-guitar-strings/100966000000000

http://www.musiciansfriend.com/accessories/daddario-exp16-coated-phosphor-bronze-light-acoustic-guitar-strings/104340000000000

On a trivial note, Dean Markley used to market an acoustic string set called "brass". These have apparently been discontinued. Now, their "Helix" Acoustic strings are marketed as,"80% copper, 20% zinc, a true brass alloy". Hm, that percentage sounds familiar.
Last edited by Captaincranky at Oct 21, 2011,
#4
Gents - my name is Don Dawson. I work for D'Addario and here's the lowdown on Phosphor Bronze vs 80/20's.

80/20 stands for 80% Copper, 20% tin - it has long been an industry standard used by many string manufacturers over the years. It's been referred to as Bell Bronze, Brass along with a few other interesting descriptors.

Phosphor Bronze was first introduced by D'Addario in the early 70's. Phosphor Bronze is 90% copper and 8% tin along with a mixture of other materials including Phosphor which is only about .8% in this mix.

The difference sonically between the two is that 80/20 is BRIGHT and Phosphor Bronze is warm and punchy. You know your guitar better than anyone. So let's say you have a small-bodied guitar that is overly bright and lacking bottom end. You might want to put some Phosphor Bronze on that instrument, as it might help bring out more bottom. Or if you have a big dreadnought and it has big boomy bottom but lacks high-end, you might want to try 80/20's in hopes of bringing out some high end on that instrument.

Hope that helps.

Don Dawson - Marketing Specialist - D'Addario
#5
Thanks Don...that helps a lot!

I've had the same question going on lately. I recently put new strings on my 12. Previously used Martin 80/20 extra lite 10's. GC was out, so I figger'd the "SP" PB 10's would be equal.
Not just no; but Hell No!

Within a few days, the tension required to keep it in tune raised the bridge and action high enuff to prevent playing w/o difficulty and lotsa pressure. The green/black residue on my fingers wasn't too tasty, either! I tuned it back to D and it has relaxed some; but apparently the strings are engineered to be in standard E and sound like crap lowered.

I see Martin is offering an FX series, PB wound flex core ! They don;t say what alloy the winding is; but the silk core has got to be easier on the fingers and flat-top than hi-tensile steel. Might hafta try them next.

Ultimately... and anecdotally, the PB's need a lot more tension than 80/20
#6
Quote by deltaten
Thanks Don...that helps a lot!

I've had the same question going on lately. I recently put new strings on my 12. Previously used Martin 80/20 extra lite 10's. GC was out, so I figger'd the "SP" PB 10's would be equal.
Not just no; but Hell No!

Within a few days, the tension required to keep it in tune raised the bridge and action high enuff to prevent playing w/o difficulty and lotsa pressure. The green/black residue on my fingers wasn't too tasty, either! I tuned it back to D and it has relaxed some; but apparently the strings are engineered to be in standard E and sound like crap lowered.

I see Martin is offering an FX series, PB wound flex core ! They don;t say what alloy the winding is; but the silk core has got to be easier on the fingers and flat-top than hi-tensile steel. Might hafta try them next.

Ultimately... and anecdotally, the PB's need a lot more tension than 80/20

Well, I went to the Martin website and viewed their string catalog, (PDF): http://www.martinguitar.com/strings/PDF/StringCatalog.pdf

Well, somebody's full of it, either you or CF Martin. Martin lists all the tensions for 12 String Extra Light at about 249 Lbs. for Phosphor Bronze and about 245 lbs. for 80/20. So, a difference of about 4 pounds tension isn't really significant. Certainly not significant at the levels you're claiming.

I really don't think that the Martin FX strings are "silk core", but rather thinner metal than normal. Anyway, only one set is offered, they're a custom gauge, and the tension is listed @ 275 pounds.

I think you guitar is drying out, but that's just me.
#7
Could be, Cap't ! It *is* more than a few years old. I often wondered about tension and didn't see the listings you posted. With all the wet weather we've had lately; I doubt it's drying out!
Seems ta me that moisture/humidity could cause it. Ya soak/steam wood to bend it...right?
#8
Quote by deltaten
Could be, Cap't ! It *is* more than a few years old. I often wondered about tension and didn't see the listings you posted. With all the wet weather we've had lately; I doubt it's drying out!
Seems ta me that moisture/humidity could cause it. Ya soak/steam wood to bend it...right?

12 strings don't really don't like being tuned to concert pitch. And yes, they sound like shit when they're tuned down. Agreed, wood is bent using steam. You situation gives one pause to wonder if the soundboard braces could be loose. It would be worth it to at least have a look. With all of that said, it seems that 12 strings have more of a finite lifespan than do decent 6 strings.

I have a Epiphone 12 string I bought 15 years ago. Not because I thought it wouldn't be trouble, but because it was left handed... The neck was on at the wrong angle, and to render its action playable, the bridge had to be notched out under the low E string pair Anyway, it sounds like shit tuned down. So, I thought I might add a sound hole pickup. If it takes away some of the acoustic sound of the instrument, I won't complain. Rather, I'll rejoice, like this....HAL-EE_LOU-JA...!
Last edited by Captaincranky at Oct 26, 2011,
#9
Yeah! I've been considering a looksee once the strings are off ta see if braces are loose. I have also considered extra braces from the bottom end to past the bridge; but ending before the sound hole. I *know* there's a reinforcment plate under the bridge; but don't recall any further bracing from that point. THere's bracing from the bridge to the outside edge, around the hole. Sorta a diamond laid square pointing from bridge to neck.
#10
Thank you so much ddawson2012 for giving me a info from the strings my bug concern was that I thoughy I bought the wrong string (I thought a type on nylon) but when I opened package they were bronze and I put my beginner face on and question myself. But yea thanks
Current Guitar:
- Epiphone PR-150 Acoustic Guitar
- Fender Squire Strat Electric Guitar
#11
can't you leave tuned to D, then just slap a capo on it to bring it to pitch? If you keep a 12 tuned in E, you are begging for a drawbridge issue (one that lifts up
Pain is temporary. Stupid is forever. - Some really friggin' smart dead dude
#12
**UPDATE**
Been a few weeks that I've had the 12 down-tuned to D. The body has relaxed to near factory original "flatness"; but the neck has straightened too !! Only a bit of buzz on the last three bass strings....even when capo'd up to E. Not sure if I wanna go thru the trouble of a re-set-up bridge and neck-wise??
Guess it's off to StewMac for that body-straightener-dealie and try, try again
#13
Quote by deltaten
**UPDATE**
Been a few weeks that I've had the 12 down-tuned to D. The body has relaxed to near factory original "flatness"; but the neck has straightened too !! Only a bit of buzz on the last three bass strings....even when capo'd up to E. Not sure if I wanna go thru the trouble of a re-set-up bridge and neck-wise??
Guess it's off to StewMac for that body-straightener-dealie and try, try again

Listen, you're actually in good shape at this point. You just need to >>> LOOSEN <<< the truss rod, ever so slightly, to put the relief back in the neck.

Back the truss rod adjuster out about a quarter turn, and let that settle for a bit. With patience, over a few weeks, you should be able to get the neck back to where you want it, without spending any money.

Post back if you want or need any more help.