#1
As the title states, does it look like my neck is bowed? I know there's supposed to be relief, but it shouldn't be this much.. I don't think anyway.

http://imageshack.us/g/195/imag0017xe.jpg/

What do you guys think?
Austin Les Paul
Alvarez Acoustic


Marshall JCM 2000 DSL 100
Peavey 5150 2x12 60watt combo
Orange Micro Terror
Jet City Made in USA 2x12
Last edited by BeastModeEngage at Oct 30, 2011,
#2
ehh... seems about right for a strat maybe u could give the truss rod a quarter turn. if your bridge a 1/4 an inch lifted?

your bridge will lift on the far right end. Fender suggests having it lifted a quarter inch off the body (as opposed to just parallel) dont lose sleep over it a lot of people dont do it. its nice to have tho because then u can pull up on wammy instead of just pushing down.
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Last edited by ThatDarnDavid at Oct 30, 2011,
#3
Quote by ThatDarnDavid
ehh... seems about right for a strat maybe u could give the truss rod a quarter turn. if your bridge a 1/4 an inch lifted?



What do you mean by a quarter inch lifted?
Austin Les Paul
Alvarez Acoustic


Marshall JCM 2000 DSL 100
Peavey 5150 2x12 60watt combo
Orange Micro Terror
Jet City Made in USA 2x12
#5
Quote by SilverSpurs616
Looks like it to me, though it's hard to really tell without handling it personally



See I think the pictures make it look better than it actually is.
Austin Les Paul
Alvarez Acoustic


Marshall JCM 2000 DSL 100
Peavey 5150 2x12 60watt combo
Orange Micro Terror
Jet City Made in USA 2x12
#6
Sight the neck from the tip of the headstock. Hold it up at look down the side of the neck. Use the strings as a straight reference. It looks pretty huge from the pictures, but If it's really bad you'll see it that way.

Personally I like my neck pretty flat so i would be truss rodding that shit right up.
#7
Camera lenses distort straight lines.

If you want to know if your neck it set up correctly follow the setup instructions at Fender.com
#8
Quote by shmeegle
Sight the neck from the tip of the headstock. Hold it up at look down the side of the neck. Use the strings as a straight reference. It looks pretty huge from the pictures, but If it's really bad you'll see it that way.

Personally I like my neck pretty flat so i would be truss rodding that shit right up.


Don't do this.

Even if you make tuss rod adjustments do them slowly and carefully 1/8 turn at a time...
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#9
Quote by Willowthewitch
Don't do this.

Even if you make tuss rod adjustments do them slowly and carefully 1/8 turn at a time...

^ this. It takes time for the adjustment to set in. Be very patient, if you rush it expect bad things.
#10
It looks like you have a little too much relief but not by a massive amount. Test properly. Tune the guitar to whatever your most common tuning is. Put a capo on the first fret and fret the 6th string on whatever fret is about one fret before where the neck meets the body. On a Strat this is usually the 15th , 16th or 17th frets. Some people think it's better to do it on the fret where it meets the body exactly, some people prefer to do it a little earlier. One fret earlier is what I find to be right.

So with the 6th string fretted at the 1st fret and near the body join, look at the gap between the top of the 7th fret fret wire and the bottom of the 6th string. There should be around half a mm gap between the top of the fret wire and the bottom of the string. You can buy 0.5mm picks that make testing this easy. If you can't fit the pick in you have too little relief, if you can fit it in with room to spare then you've got too much and if it fits in snugly (neither loosely nor tight so it moves the string when you put it in) then you've got the relief right.

Remember the bridge/saddle height plays a big part in action too so if your bridge is unusually high that can make the action look worse than it is and it's easy to blame the truss rod. Everybody blames the truss rod because it's the part of the guitar they don't understand. Most problems with action are down to the bridge or nut.
#11
Quote by thehikingdude
^ this. It takes time for the adjustment to set in. Be very patient, if you rush it expect bad things.


How long should you wait between each time you turn it? I was waiting about 15 minutes inbetween each one.


Quote by grohl1987
It looks like you have a little too much relief but not by a massive amount. Test properly. Tune the guitar to whatever your most common tuning is. Put a capo on the first fret and fret the 6th string on whatever fret is about one fret before where the neck meets the body. On a Strat this is usually the 15th , 16th or 17th frets. Some people think it's better to do it on the fret where it meets the body exactly, some people prefer to do it a little earlier. One fret earlier is what I find to be right.

So with the 6th string fretted at the 1st fret and near the body join, look at the gap between the top of the 7th fret fret wire and the bottom of the 6th string. There should be around half a mm gap between the top of the fret wire and the bottom of the string. You can buy 0.5mm picks that make testing this easy. If you can't fit the pick in you have too little relief, if you can fit it in with room to spare then you've got too much and if it fits in snugly (neither loosely nor tight so it moves the string when you put it in) then you've got the relief right.

Remember the bridge/saddle height plays a big part in action too so if your bridge is unusually high that can make the action look worse than it is and it's easy to blame the truss rod. Everybody blames the truss rod because it's the part of the guitar they don't understand. Most problems with action are down to the bridge or nut.



Thanks for the info. I'm not worried about the action, the playability is fine for me. I'm just more worried about the neck itself being warped.
Austin Les Paul
Alvarez Acoustic


Marshall JCM 2000 DSL 100
Peavey 5150 2x12 60watt combo
Orange Micro Terror
Jet City Made in USA 2x12
Last edited by BeastModeEngage at Oct 30, 2011,
#12
Your neck doesnt look to be warped and the bow may be a tiny bit much but looks normal. All in all everything is fine. I guess there is nothing more to discuss here...
#13
Quote by Willowthewitch
Don't do this.

Even if you make tuss rod adjustments do them slowly and carefully 1/8 turn at a time...


To clarify, I wasn't saying go to town on the truss. I was merely explaining how to sight
it so you'll know if you should or not. Always make small 1/8th turns.
#14
Quote by BeastModeEngage
How long should you wait between each time you turn it? I was waiting about 15 minutes inbetween each one. Thanks for the info. I'm not worried about the action, the playability is fine for me. I'm just more worried about the neck itself being warped.


I usually make the adjustment at night, then go to sleep and see how it is in the morning. If it still sucks, do it again and check it that evening etc...
#15
eigthth (sp?) turn, wait fifteen or more minutes, repeat if so desired.

i always down tune the strings half a step whenever making truss rod adjustments, wait a while, and then retune up. idk why, but it works.
Last edited by 00_hns_00 at Oct 31, 2011,
#16
remember your neck shouldn't be completely straight.there should be a very slight bow in it
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#17
Quote by Eggmond
remember your neck shouldn't be completely straight.there should be a very slight bow in it


Well I think its more personal preference. I like my neck as straight as possible. I think there will normally just be some natural bow to a neck but I try to get rid of it...
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#18
looks like it may be slightly concave ie truss rod needs tightening.

anyway, look at the setup thread in this forum which gives a foolproof, simple method of measuring the neck relief.
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