#1
Because I got tired of looking at another black guitar.

Plus it had some scratches and dings, So i figured it was time to give it a new image.
I have a friend who owns an auto-body shop, so i can get quality paints and clearcoats for the price of the paint. (so long as i do all the shit work myself)

I was thinking about white with black trim, but then again sanding this thing down is an awful lot of work to just paint it white.

Someone earlier had posted a wine red les paul that looked beautiful



I'm contemplating going with that...but i'd still like to hear your opinions.

The guitar has a maple top, and the wood grain isn't very prominent so i'm pretty much stuck using solid colours



If you could take a les paul and paint it any colour you wanted, what would you choose?

It has seymore duncan blackouts and gold hardware if that makes a difference to your colour choices.

Also, the tune-o-matic studs need to be removed so I can properly sand. or at least easily sand. Does anyone know if they just screw in? or are they glued or something. I've never taken a set out before.
#2
I'd try any candy apple finish. I have a Fender Mustang Special with a candy finish and it looks beautiful.
#3
Wipe some of the top with a damp cloth, it'll give you a better idea of the grain and wether or not a see through colour will look good. Damp though, not soaking wet. If it comes up nice you could use a tinted stain instead.
#4
I would go with something that stands out...so maybe out of the whole read, black, white, and gold color area....

maybe a bright blue,green, or purple would float your boat...

if it were me....well i would go with a neon pink...just to stand out...
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#5
White and gold is always nice, as is red/oxblood and gold. And black.
#6
White and gold suits my tastes quite nicely.
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#8
Go with the wine red. It will look absolutely beautiful
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#9
I like candy red and candy blue for a solid color.

My favorite guitar is a midnight wine stratocaster. I have never seen a les paul that dark so I think is cool.

If I were you i would go for a very unique color, something like The Hulk Green, or a eric clapton grey finish.
#11
the wine red with white lining looks lush, I'd just steal it any given opportunity
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#12
Purple, gold and black would be pretty kush. Green, gold, and black as well.
#13
I wiped down the part that has been sanded thus far and that did make the wood grain stand out considerably. I tried to take a picture but my camera sucks and nothing was showing up except the white from the flash, and when i turned the flash off it was blurry.

It's not flame or quilted maple by any means, but i think it would look nice in a deep red.

I had planned on going with a white finish when i started sanding, but now that i've thought about it I don't really want to spend 10+ hours redoing a guitar that could have been bought in that colour originally.

It's an epiphone custom model les paul...and I would like to attempt to make it resemble a gibson studio in wine red...but the lazy part of me keeps saying "hey, if you paint it white you could get away with not worrying about the neck..."

I feel like i'm in highschool woodworking class. My fingers hurt from sanding for the last 3 hours, and i'm not even close to done.

argh. well it will be worthwhile in the end.

Did anyone know about those tune-o-matic studs?
#14
I'd paint it Daphne blue, put on a white perloid pick guard, black single coil pups with 3-position switches above them (instead of the toggle). The pickup covers would not expose the poles and the pickups would both be angled. I'd have the headstock a natural color. Also I'd have a metal control plate and put the jack there like an SG. I'd also install a floating bridge with the strings anchored in a big chrome tube. Just one volume and tone control, too. I'd use the knobs like you see on a Spider Valve amp. It would have to have vintage style tuners, too, like Klusons.

That's what color I'd paint an LP, but the scale length would still be 3/4" too long.
#15
Those studs pull out - they're just pressed in. Use a clawhammer with the inserts in.
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#17
It works and so long as you're careful it's completely save.
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#19
yeah the claw hammer idea sounded kinda sketchy...not really looking to put a dent in the guitar, which would have almost surely have happened on the stopbar pieces which were glued in. the screw trick worked very easily, thank you for the link. I'm heating them up with a soldering iron now, which should melt the glue.
#21
Well the stopbar pieces are being a bit of a pain in the ass...so i'm just going to leave them in and sand around them. Even after heating it up so it was hot to the touch the screw technique only dug the screw into the bottom of the guitar.

But at least now i only have 2 things to sand around instead of 4
#23
too late...although i might try again before it gets painted

sorry in advance if this picture takes up the entire screen....i didn't want to resize it so you could see the wood grain




now all i have left to sand is the back. and sides. and neck.

...FML
#24
Well my hands hurt...i think i'm gonna play some MW3 and call it a night

Quick question...anyone have any insight as to why they would use a nicer wood on the back of the guitar than on the front?

#25
Mahogany back, maple top. It's how les pauls have almost always been made. I wouldn't nessecarily call one better than the other but, whatever. Also, remove your covers, otherwise they'll just get scratched up by your sandpaper. That's like step one for me (remove everything you can).
#26
get the stud out. it will leave a horrible looking spot on the guitar. Since you have access to real spray equiment by someone that knows what they are doing, there is no reason in the world why this should look like crap.

at work and the internet is too slow to check the youtube screw trick. If this is the same, sorry.

What I do is get a piece of wood and drill a hole in it larger than the screw stud. Put the hole over the stud. put a large washer over the wood. then, i using a bolt that is the same diameter as the stud, thread through the washer and wood. As you tighten, the wood and washer will prevent the bolt from going in and as a result, the stud is forced to come up through the hole.

USe a bolt just long enough to go through the wood. Also, using a bolt allows you to use a wrench or socket.
Last edited by Rusty_Chisel at Nov 9, 2011,
#28
Good tip from the rusty chisel. Thats the way to go but make sure though the hole in the swood is just bigger than the stud head to minimise splitting and chipping of face timber as it is withdrawn...........get those suckers out.
#29
Thanks guys, you've all been really helpful.

I ended up using the screw technique again, with a larger screw head and leaving the soldering iron to heat up the glue for a few minutes longer than last time.

It was still a stubborn pain in the ass, but it popped the stud up enough to grab it with a pair of pliers without touching the wood.

Now that I have a clean, somewhat flat surface to work with the final bit of sanding should go very easily, and with any luck i'll have the guitar ready to be painted by the weekend.

Everyone one of my friends i've asked have agreed that the wine red would look amazing, so that's what i've decided on. I'll have to buy a new pick guard, but I don't imagine they're very expensive.

This is the last of the updates i'll have for a few days...But thank you once again for all your advice and opinions...this would have turned out a lot differently if I hadn't posted in here for some feedback.
#31
If you want a wood grain finish on the top why not just get a veneer? excuse my spelling! lol if thats how you spell it
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