#1
So like most 6505+s, mine is rated at 120 W... But I've been doing research (since I plan to get an attenuator) that leads me to believe that just because it's rated at 120W it can actually crank out much more...

Now my cab is rated at 120W rms... Is this safe? What wattage attenuator should I get? I figured I would go for the 200W mega dump by weber... but would the 150W be a better choice(since I believe the 150W has more tone shaping options...)?
Last edited by xtreme1 at Nov 9, 2011,
#2
You don't need an attenuator. Cabs are rated at 120w for a reason, and that reason is that it is safe to operate an amp at or below that wattage with the cab.
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#4
As far as the 6505+ is concerned, you don't need an attenuator. An attenuator isn't just for lowering the volume - it's for getting a more saturated power amp at a particular volume level. They tend to shine with amps like the Marshall 1959SLP or an Orange OR or something, where power distortion is desirable.

The 6505+ has a very high gain preamp and is not made for power distortion. You would be better off with simply adjusting the volume knob when it is inconvenient to play loudly.
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#5
The 400 watts & ~120V is the input power consumption of the amp
Look above the speaker jacks for the output wattage it should have RMS after it and at how many Ohms too
And your cab is probably fine unless you are constantly cracking it with all controls on 10 and even then it would probably last for a long time
It has 4 power tubes right? if anything the output is probably a little less
#6
1. You won't make it go above 120 watts trust me
2. vintage 30s are conservatively rated anyway so can actually take a wee bit more then rated if it came down to it so you should be fine..
#7
Quote by coolstoryangus
1. You won't make it go above 120 watts trust me
2. vintage 30s are conservatively rated anyway so can actually take a wee bit more then rated if it came down to it so you should be fine..

good info & yes... I understand the 400 watts thing... itd been a while since I looked at the back of my amp, and I saw that & almost died ha... Have i been playing witha 400watt amp!? ... anyways... from my research on attenuators so far, yes they do push the power, but at the same time they can be used to soak the power, and then adjust the power given to the speakers and lower the decibel output while sacrificing minimal tone...
#8
If you're really worried, you could always pull 2 of the 6l6 valves and go with 60w. But even then, I'd worry more about the damage to your ears than to the speakers. In a typical living room, you'd easily be pushing 120-125db if you cranked the amp
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#9
Can someone recommend which attenuator to get? the 150w or 200w by weber? or even the hotplate?
#10
120W is the undistorted RMS level. The saturated power output would be (following rule of thumb) closer to 200W. 'Twer I you I would assume that 200W is about your maximum possible power output and go from there.
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Last edited by Cathbard at Nov 10, 2011,
#11
When you buy an amp like the 5150, your not really going for the tone attenuators would provide. Do you even really want one?

Sometimes you can't crank it, shitty, get a HD500 or something.
#12
an attenuator is the most useless thing for a 6505.

you don't get a prize for being able to turn your master volume up.

all the distortion is in the preamp.
Prs se Holcomb is the answer
#14
Quote by xtreme1
so I wouldnt be able to use it to take my decibel level down?


You can, but for your purposes it would be pointless. The main point of an attenuator is to get power distortion at a lower volume. A 6505+ does not have good power distortion.

An attenuator is useful for playing music like AC/DC where it relies on huge pumping power amps to get that sound. With a 6505+, you have a large amount of preamp gain, which is of a completely different character and sound than power amp distortion.

If you just want your amp to be quieter, just use the volume knob.

If you want a more easily adjustable volume, get an equalizer and run it in the loop. Set the equalizer volume to the lowest. Your amp's volume should be a bit more easily controllable (i.e. you won't jump from whisper to shout levels by turning the knob from 0 to 1)
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#15
Quote by Raijouta
You can, but for your purposes it would be pointless. The main point of an attenuator is to get power distortion at a lower volume. A 6505+ does not have good power distortion.

An attenuator is useful for playing music like AC/DC where it relies on huge pumping power amps to get that sound. With a 6505+, you have a large amount of preamp gain, which is of a completely different character and sound than power amp distortion.

If you just want your amp to be quieter, just use the volume knob.

If you want a more easily adjustable volume, get an equalizer and run it in the loop. Set the equalizer volume to the lowest. Your amp's volume should be a bit more easily controllable (i.e. you won't jump from whisper to shout levels by turning the knob from 0 to 1)

I had never understood that the power was sucked from the power tubes until you said that... after a lil more googling it seems the 6505+ power tubes are pretty clean sounding so it really wouldn't suit my purpose... its amazing how many people still use an attenuator for high distortion amps and claim it works miracles... I appreciate all the advice guys. Saved me some money!
#16
Quote by xtreme1
I had never understood that the power was sucked from the power tubes until you said that... after a lil more googling it seems the 6505+ power tubes are pretty clean sounding so it really wouldn't suit my purpose... its amazing how many people still use an attenuator for high distortion amps and claim it works miracles... I appreciate all the advice guys. Saved me some money!

I've seen people use high gain amps with an attenuator then into a separate power amp with success (FastRedPonyCar) but what you're describing would be pretty pointless.
#17
I'm going have to back up the others and say an attenuator for a 6505 is a great big waste of money.
#18
Quote by coolstoryangus
1. You won't make it go above 120 watts trust me
2. vintage 30s are conservatively rated anyway so can actually take a wee bit more then rated if it came down to it so you should be fine..


You will. 120W is what it cranks clean. Push it into powertube breakup, 200-250 is more likely, depending on how easily it breaks up.
#19
Quote by GS LEAD 5
You will. 120W is what it cranks clean. Push it into powertube breakup, 200-250 is more likely, depending on how easily it breaks up.

I'm pretty sure he meant that he will never practically push it past 120.

Who's cranking the clean channel on a 6505? You're not getting vintage power tube tones out of that.
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#20
Quote by GS LEAD 5
You will. 120W is what it cranks clean. Push it into powertube breakup, 200-250 is more likely, depending on how easily it breaks up.

so you think it is unsafe to play through my cab?
#21
No, it's perfectly safe to play through your cab. You're never going to push 120w out of that amp playing in your bedroom, or even in a band situation.

The wattage that an amp is rated at is its power output RIGHT BEFORE breakup on the clean channel. You're never going to push it near breakup unless you're trying to make your powertubes distort.
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#22
Quote by AcousticMirror
an attenuator is the most useless thing for a 6505.

you don't get a prize for being able to turn your master volume up.

all the distortion is in the preamp.


+1.

also, a speaker's power handling rating will handle a tube amp power output. in other words: a 60 watt speaker will handle a 60 watt rated tube amp even if the tube amp gets to 80 watts after rms clean rating, speakers manufacturers take this into consideration when rating the speaker
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#23
Quote by xtreme1
so you think it is unsafe to play through my cab?

The speakers are rated very conservatively. A 120W vab will prolly take a lot more than that, depending on the specific speaker.


Quote by stratman_13
I'm pretty sure he meant that he will never practically push it past 120.

Who's cranking the clean channel on a 6505? You're not getting vintage power tube tones out of that.



Not saying it will sound good, or if anyone will do it. Just that if you DO do it, it will go past 120W.
Last edited by GS LEAD 5 at Nov 11, 2011,
#24
See, now I really want to know what a cranked 6505 sounds like...
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#25
I agree do not get attenuator. Or make sure you read up on them first.

Eurotubes.com has a great explination of what they do, how they work and why you should not get one.

You will lose tone. It can not replicate everything your amp would do on its own.

Just turn your volume down or better yet. Tell that craphole club to get a better sound guy or use your own.

I dont know how many times Ive had house soundguys say turn it down with my old 6505+ when I wasnt even on 2. Yea it sucks, you cant get your tone either way. But if you play a place that has good pa gear and a soundguy that actually knows what he is doing youll be fine.
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#26
Quote by maddnotez
I agree do not get attenuator. Or make sure you read up on them first.

Eurotubes.com has a great explination of what they do, how they work and why you should not get one.

You will lose tone. It can not replicate everything your amp would do on its own.

Just turn your volume down or better yet. Tell that craphole club to get a better sound guy or use your own.

I dont know how many times Ive had house soundguys say turn it down with my old 6505+ when I wasnt even on 2. Yea it sucks, you cant get your tone either way. But if you play a place that has good pa gear and a soundguy that actually knows what he is doing youll be fine.


and yeah I definitely have no reason to want power tube distortion so no attenuator for me! thanks guys. Also Ive been playing through this cab with the MV at about 8 for 2 years now and never noticed anything off... so it was just once I started researching attenuators I thought ohhhh crap... I mighta been killing my speakers... But now I am quite satisfied with my gear. Thanks again for all the info!
#27
Just to be clear: an attenuator is at its most useful with something like an old Marshall or a Fender where you have to crank it to get distortion. With a 6505+ you don't need that, because it has a lot of preamp gain at its disposal already.

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