So I made a 1x10 cab and the speaker I bought from a guy was a neo 10" supposedly 200 watt 8 ohm speaker. My amp is a MB200 bass head and at 8 ohms should be around 100-120 watts. When I bump it even past say 8-9 o clock if I dig in it sounds like pure crunchy farts, if I bump it up any more even worse. The head sounds great in any other use so is the speaker just new and really bad at low end? I bought it from a bass player who talked to me for hours before selling it and played music loudly through it, so I don't think it was a guitar speaker?

Anyways, I built the cab for low level jams and such, but I still was expecting it to be able to handle itself better. Do I need to break it in or is something wrong.
If there isn't anything visibly wrong with the speaker, check the wiring connections. It could be a bad wire.
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What model of speaker did you buy?
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there are loads of things that could cause this, without seeing or hearing it the fault could be hard to find.

You built the cab, how was it designed, is it ported or sealed, how did you calculate the dimensions?
What's your EQ look like?
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Well, I didn't design it per se, it's an old peavey rage combo I totally took apart, had an 8 inch speaker, and baffle I removed made a new one for the 10". The guy I bought it from said it was in an amp but was a replacement and never used hardly. When I left he said If I cut a 2 inch hole I should be fine. When I made the closed back I drilled 2 1" holes near under a plate that goes across the board and holds the jack. It's stuffed with quilt batting on all sides but the baffle, and I wired it up both ways on the speaker and did the same thing.

I relaxed the bass considerably and got to play at around 9-10 o'clock, but it couldn't be played hard without overdriving the circuit. I think I have pictures of the speaker I'll post later.
Cabinets have to be designed to match the specific driver in question.

You can't just throw any driver in any box and expect it to sound good.

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ok first of all. The speaker was in good condition when you bought it off a dude and it was a spare. Was he using it as a 1x10 or was it a 200w spare for his quad? Because there is a MASSIVE difference in how it will react on it's own even if the electroncs/wiring/ohms etc. is all correct.

Ie. a 2x10 at 8 ohm will shit itself at mid level volumes(Gig levels) with say a low B string. although you add a second 2x10 and take it to 4 ohm and at higher volume levels it copes fine. I would expect this to be exactly the same when going from 1x10 to 2x10 to 4x10.
I think i was part of a 2x10 or 4x10, he does a lot of buy and fix and resale.

I was playing a fender mustang tuned to standard. I know it's not designed for the cab, but would that cause such a shitting flutter? If so I guess I'm fine using it at lower levels, it was originally a practice amp idea anyway.
If it was used as a 2x10 or a 4x10 i would be looking towards what i was suggesting and it may work extremely well in a 2x10 or 4x10. which doesn't really help you unfortunately.

I went from a quad to a single 2x10, same volume running out of the amp at still an extremely suitable volume level and the 2x10 was having the issues you were talking about now. I bought a second 2x10 and i can run it extremely loud and the speakers do not have a single problem anymore. Not sure why they stop screwing out when you add more. and by volume i don't mean perceived volume... i literally mean rather than putting the volume on 3 and having it screw out I can push it to 5 at a lower ohm rating and it still works perfect.

I honestly think it has something to do with your problem and I don't think the enclosure etc. is an issue honestly. Yes speakers sound different in different enclosures. But your not talking about loss of tone, clarity etc. speaker farting is a very different thing.
Ok, it could well be the mis -match between your speaker and cab. Ignore anyone who says it isn't, they mean well but don't know any engineering.

Basically the cab is doing two things. The air acts like a spring on the back of your speaker and if it is too soft it will let the cone flop around too much when you put in deep bass. Too stiff and it squashes the bass. The air also acts as a damper (shock absorber) on the cone movement.

Punching holes in the cab as you have done will remove the spring except for one condition. If the cab is tuned to the resonant frequency of the speaker then the cab and speaker work together to give you real control over the resonance and a bonus extra 3dB of bass. It is almost impossible to achieve this by guesswork.

The farting is probably caused by the speaker moving so much the coil moves out of the magnet and the cone may even be hitting the back of the magnet. The speaker will break if you go on doing this.

The simplest way of fixing this is to seal up all the holes in the cab and restore the spring in the air. You may lose some of the bass but your speaker will be safe so long as you don't overload it. Try this and if it still goes on farting then it is something else.

Let me know how you get on.

Try reading this http://www.ultimate-guitar.com/columns/gear_maintenance/cabinets_for_guitars.html
Last edited by Phil Starr at Nov 22, 2011,