#1
Recently my friend gave me his stock epiphone pickups, humbuckers, off his new explorer after he upgraded to emgs. I have a squier strat and since I got the new pickups I figure im gonna go the distance and upgrade the rest of the guitar. First question, will these pickups fit? This is in regard to the F spacing that fender uses, is this even an issue on squiers? they seem to line up...also, I have about 200. Im going to repaint it, which will be free, but can you point me in the right directioin about buying a new bridge, tuners, nut, pots, wiring ect.
#3
F spacing is primarily for cosmetic purposes, the tone is the same whether the pole pieces are directly under the strings or slightly off. For parts, you can get everything you need from Guitar Fetish for a very good price.
EDIT: Regarding routing, I'm pretty sure most strats come routed for at least one humbucker, possibly two depending on the model.
Last edited by blaaargh at Nov 28, 2011,
#5
Ok, well I have access to a mill so if its not drilled for HH i can change that, how big are the tuner holes? Better pickups will wait because I dont have the money for any and surely the epi pickups trump the squier pups anyday

Its an HSS model
#6
I put Seymour Duncan HH pups in my Squier and locking tuners, among other things. Those 2 things plus a pro setup (including a neck shim) now have it just as playable as my MIA Strat, but a lot more fun.

Here's what I had to do:

1. Get a custom pick guard in an HH config--sent them the original and they used it as a template. Unless you have the "Standard" model, the pickguards are all slightly different, depending on which factory it was built in and the year.

2. Had to deepen the neck pickup cavity to fit the mounting bracket tabs (and I still cut the adjuster screws a little). The pup fit fine in the other dimensions. I had to dig a lot more wood out in the control cavity to make room for the 5-way super switch and the S-1 volume control/switch. I didn't need a mill for either--a Dremel tool did the trick. I started with a router, but the Dremem l was better.

3. The peg holes were standard. I used Fender/Schallers like they put on the Deluxe MIA Strats. The Squier machines had one locater pin in the back (keeps the back of the machine from twisting). The Schallers have 2 pins. So I had to drill 12 small holes. That was pretty easy. And well worth it. Best upgrade ever for playability. Plus I had 2 of the Squire machines break on me around the same time--the housings cracked.

4. You may want to consider a Tusq nut by Graphtec; not sure anything else short of a roller nut would make much difference. I'm happy with the Squier nut--I just use graphite grease in the slots and the saddles every string change.

5. I kept the stock bridge. I don't like 6-point bridges anyway, but one hasn't given me any problems. I just use my Floyd Rose guitars if I'm playing something where I need some serious whammy.

6. BTW, I also replaced the input jack with a DiMarzio for $5. Now it never lets go of the cable unless I want it to.

If you haven't put strap locks on it yet, then now's the time. And don't forget about the toothpick trick--the new screws will probably be smaller. Not a whole toothpick; just a sliver.
#8
Quote by FenderGuy909
So the squier affinity bridges aren't complete crap?


Depends on what you expect out of it.

Mine might as well be a hard tail. I keep the springs so tight you can't pull up on the whammy. I tend to bend the neck for a subtle dip sound on that guitar before using the whammy. Using the whammy knocks it out ouf tune a bit, but that's fixed quick enough by dipping a bit and letting it spring back up.

I use the trems on my MIA and my Mustang just a little more, but mainly because they're loose enough to use without the bar for subtle sounds. If I'm going to play a song with more whammy than that, then I go to on of the Floyd Rose equipped guitars.

As for the tone, I dunno; I use that guitar for lots of O/D, fuzz, and distortion and it has totally different pups than my MIA Strat (HH vs SSS). Not to mention the Affinity probably has a lot more pieces of low grade alder glued together than my sunburst MIA Strat.

I think the Affinity bridges are better than the Squier "Standard" bridges. At least the saddles. I don't like the tone on the Standards I've played; plugged in or not. I'm not sure if it's the agathis bodies or the aluminum/plastic looking saddles they got. My theory is it's the saddles, because I've literally heard guitars made of aluminum as well as concrete, and even cinder blocks sound better than the Squier Standard Strat.

It's a shame, because I like the other specs on the Squier Standard, and would rather have one than most MIM Strats (other than the Blacktops).
Last edited by jetwash69 at Nov 28, 2011,
#9
Quote by FenderGuy909
So the squier affinity bridges aren't complete crap?


Come to think of it, I don't particularly like their long set screws, either--kind of diggs in my hand when I palm mute.

But I've definitely used much worse bridges than the Affinity's.

In many ways the Mustang bridge is worse. Keeping that intonated is a bitch--both to reach the screws (under the stings, and with the tail in the way) and because it moves back and forth (and can move independently of the tail).

The bridge is so bad on my friend's 80's Cort that it won't even stay in tune one song--the metal literally twists on it; it's a Kahler knock off.

Is there something you don't like about the bridge, or have you just heard that they're crap?
#10
I just heard they were crap, and I also heard that a poor bridge wont hold a tune very well. So I figured it might need replacing. I mean I cant divebomb with it but other than that it seems fine. But if its decent then thats great, saves me a buck.
#13
I'd do the other upgrades first, then see how you feel about the bridge.

Then if you need to, consider graphtech and others. Remember, the Affinity is 1/4 - 1/2 inch thinner than real Strats, so that'll require a shorter block. Probably not worth messing with--that was my conclusion, at least.

That's money better spent on pedals or saving up for more guitars or a better amp, IMHO.
#14
Still I will have the parts, can always scrap it later on and take the new electronics, tuners, and other stuff im gettin
#15
And add those parts to a nicer guitar

Edit:I'm gettin new pots, capacitors, tone knobs,wiring, and pickup selector from guitarelectronics.com, Grover 406C6 mini self locking tuners, Humbucker pickguard covers, and a new black pearloid pickguard, all for about 130
Last edited by FenderGuy909 at Nov 30, 2011,