#1
Hello. I'm new here but wanted some advice for this for a while. I do a lot of work on instruments but never built one or messed with finishes. This Heritage is from their first year of production back in the mid '80s. I bought it in '98. The neck finish had one or two tiny blisters but no open sores so I don't think anything got underneath the lacquer to lift it - and although it's seen much use, I don't think this is all player wear. I suspect the finish just didn't take well to some spots on the neck at the factory. The rest of the guitar is nice - cherry sunburst flame maple top with no finish problems.

Several years ago, some lacquer started to split and peel at the bubbles. The edges of the peeling finish felt sharp and I would have to smooth them out. Recently, I got tired of chasing peeling paint and applied a fix that actually worked pretty well. I stuck duck tape all up and down the back of the neck then peeled it off, lifting all of the loose lacquer off with the tape. Did this several times, did some scraping with a credit card, then used a scuff pad and fine grades of steel wool to smooth and blend just the back of the neck.

The neck feels good now - but not great - and I think I would play it more if it were great. I'm confident that the remaining lacquer is stuck tight and will last another 25 years so I would like to treat just the raw mahogany instead of refinishing the entire neck. If I painted just the raw spots with a brush do you think it could be blended and smoothed in to feel pretty much the same as the rest of the neck? I think Heritage must have used nitrocellulose back in the day but not sure -anyone? If I bought the nitro lacquer - and maybe the tint for it, does it apply OK with a brush? How about preparing the raw wood so it doesn't happen again?

Thanks
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#2
I'd just sand down the neck and aply some tung oil to it, it'll play like butta.
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#3
Quote by Robbgnarly
I'd just sand down the neck and aply some tung oil to it, it'll play like butta.


I've used Tung oil (or something similar) on gun stocks with good results. It's an easy wipe-on finish which would work but I think it would eliminate the option of ever going back to a lacquered neck so I have to think about it.
#4
Quote by Mars Rover
I've used Tung oil (or something similar) on gun stocks with good results. It's an easy wipe-on finish which would work but I think it would eliminate the option of ever going back to a lacquered neck so I have to think about it.


You can also sand it and re paint it, or just laquer it again. Then sand and buff,
#5
Quote by divinorum69
You can also sand it and re paint it, or just laquer it again. Then sand and buff,

Yes this is an option, but finding Nitro Laquer in the same color might be a huge problem.
2002 PRS CE22
2013 G&L ASAT Deluxe
2009 Epiphone G-400 (SH-4)
Marshall JCM2000 DSL100
Krank 1980 Jr 20watt
Krank Rev 4x12 (eminence V12)
GFS Greenie/Digitech Bad Monkey
Morley Bad Horsie 2
MXR Smart Gate
#7
Quote by divinorum69
Nitro laquer should be transparent, so you just have to match the under paint. Of course the natural aging color that the laquer aquires is just gained by time.


Thanks. Clear alone won't match it - theres no under paint. I think it's red-tinted lacquer - transparent red. But I stll may go with clear and not try to match. Just don't want to refinish the entire neck back. I talked to a freind that used to own a body shop and he's going to help with this.
#8
Quote by divinorum69
Nitro laquer should be transparent, so you just have to match the under paint. Of course the natural aging color that the laquer aquires is just gained by time.

wat?

Only if it is clear Nitro. Maybe thats all you can get where your at? They make it in lots of colors look at www.reranch.com or on StewMac. Even in spray cans.
2002 PRS CE22
2013 G&L ASAT Deluxe
2009 Epiphone G-400 (SH-4)
Marshall JCM2000 DSL100
Krank 1980 Jr 20watt
Krank Rev 4x12 (eminence V12)
GFS Greenie/Digitech Bad Monkey
Morley Bad Horsie 2
MXR Smart Gate