#1
Thought I might post my first build.

So here's the plan!

The body will be made from Rimu (native NZ timber) with an oak top. I got this timber free so it's a bit of an experiment. So i have no idea if it will resonate well or how it will affect the tone of the guitar.

The oak has a nice grain and the rimu is a nice looking wood, so at this stage I will probably do a natural finish, or maybe a light stain. But haven't completely decided so that might change.

Im using a neck from a early 90's Peavey Predator, that played nice but had a beaten up body and hardware. The neck is is good nick, the frets are a little worn but i will leave them at the moment and maybe do a refret later on.

Quick mockup of body shape in solidworks. Based of the Z shape that warmoth have.
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Here's where I'm at so far.

Body cut and pickup cavities and neck pocket machined out.
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Neck pocket is a tight fit, it just needs a little bit of sanding and it should be perfect!
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Going for all black hardware and using a schaller 475 flat mount bridge for something different. For pick ups I will probably go with GFS just for cost savings. Not sure what models yet.

Hopefully tomorrow I will finish up the electronic cavity (just needs tidying up) and then start sanding and shaping the body.

Any comments or advice would be great.

Edit: any advice on creating tummy cuts or shaping would be good too, at this stage im just going to start sanding with my hand sander, any better methods?
Last edited by ithyphallic at Jan 30, 2012,
#3
Quote by cripple perc
im pretty sure oak is not really a good tone wood but good luck holmes sweet shape


Yeah the body is approximately 1/3 oak and 2/3rds rimu. But like a said its an experiment, I havent found any real definitive negative or positive info on either wood for guitars.
If might sound good, it might not? We will see when its done haha
#4
Quote by cripple perc
im pretty sure oak is not really a good tone wood but good luck holmes sweet shape


Im almost sure the Red Special was made from Oak and it sounded great. Thats brian may's guitar, you know the guitarist from queen?

Looks really good. Not a fan of the bodyshape but I like what you are doing.
#6
Quote by Boysie8
I like the shape, it's good to see something different. I love the Rimu choice btw, I used it on my first build and I really can't recommend it enough - easy to work, has a gorgeous colour, and it sounds great.


Thanks.

That's good to hear, because if it turns out nice I have access to a lot of rimu at my uncles (free!) which could come in handy for future builds.
#8
Quote by LeviMan_2001
Don't worry about the wood, oak will probably be great! pickups from gfs will probably alsp be pretty decent.


Yeah from what I've heard the GFS pups are good value for money. So I will give them a shot.
#10
Update.

Finished electronics cavity and started carving the body so its a bit more comfortable.
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Pic of the grain and the carved section on the front for the arm rest.
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And the guitar as it is at the moment.



Tomorrow is pay day so I am trying to figure out what to buy to refinish the neck. Im wanting to keep it quite a pale colour (not turn yellow) and nice and smooth. My jackson RR3 has a really nice smooth neck anyone know what jackson use's on their guitars? Or any other suggestions?
#12
Another update if any ones interested ...

Body is almost done just added sanding sealer before I do my finish with danish oil.

Pic of the body with sealing sander applied. Gives a decent indication of the final colour/finish.
I used a darker grain filler on the oak to get the grain to pop a bit more. It has worked well.


Back, the rimu goes a really nice colour (excuse the flash)


Here's the neck which is in the process of being tru-oiled, its coming up really nice and smooth, with no stickiness. me likey.


Received my Gotoh tuners so theyre ready to go when the necks finished plus a new nut. Hopefully I receive the rest of my hardware before Xmas! Including pickups from GFS and my Schaller bridge and a couple of other bits from warmoth. Fingers crossed. So I can get this gat done.
#16
Boom, time to update. I have now got all the hardware and electronics thanks to old santa.

Heres the Schaller 475 bridge, the knobs and the schaller strap button/locks.
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Pickups from GFS a H14 Alnico Fat Pat for the bridge and H135 VEH- Vintage Extra Hot for the neck both in nickel. Not really sure what these will be like hopefully not too hot but not to mellow either.


Here's it all laid out. Including the neck with the new Gotoh tuners and nut. The body is actually a bit darker in real life.


Not a lot more to do except go to my mates to use his drill press for the bridge screws. And drill for the strap buttons.

The finish on the body still needs a little work just another sand then maybe a light coating of sanding sealer before a few more coats of oil maybe. Just to make sure the surface is as smooth as possible.

So she might be done in a week or so's time if everything goes to plan, fingers crossed!
#18
Quote by Boysie8
That's one mint guitar. Amazing work man.


Cheers man. Yeah it is going a lot smoother than I thought haha
#20
Looks cool! Kind of a Mockingbird mixed with a T-50. Is that a Peavey neck?
Quote by Most_Triumphant
Depends, I don't know what pickups go good with plywood. EMGs will make it sound like every other EMG guitar though.

Quote by JazzMunkeyy
it needs a silver flakes
and sara underwood
#21
Quote by y2k11hmmm?
Looks cool! Kind of a Mockingbird mixed with a T-50. Is that a Peavey neck?


Cheers!

Yep the necks off an old Peavey predator US made. Picked it up cheap as cos the body was destroyed by some badly executed carvings and the hardware was pretty worn out. Despite its faults it played reasonably well and the neck felt good.

I sanded the neck back and Tru oiled it and it feels really nice now maybe will need a re fret at some stage though.
#22
I have run into my first issue!

After drilling the holes for the pick up rings I screwed them in and as i was just about done the head of one of the screws broke off.



It pretty much broke level with the top of the wood, so there nothing to grab with pliers and screw it out.

Does anyone have any solutions?

Im thinking I might just screw the other 3 screws in and then just glue the head of the broken one in the pickup ring to give the impression that it is there.
I will do this unless someone has a better idea?
#23
Get a drill bit for metal the size or bigger then the screw, and clamp it to a drill press and bore the metal out, dowel the hole, then re-drill. Were they screws from GFS? They are VERY prone to strip/break like that, even with pre-drilling.
Just call me Julius, J, etc.
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#24
Have you applied the Danish Oil yet? If not, give the body a good sanding to remove the sanding sealer, then sand it to a minimum 600 grit before applying the oil directly to the wood.

Oil won't soak into the wood, which is the idea, if it's been sealed.
#25
Quote by nowa90
Get a drill bit for metal the size or bigger then the screw, and clamp it to a drill press and bore the metal out, dowel the hole, then re-drill. Were they screws from GFS? They are VERY prone to strip/break like that, even with pre-drilling.

This or you could try to dig out enough with a knife around the screw that you can get a hold of it. It shouldn't take much, and it'll be hidden anyway. And if you can't manage it, you can still drill it out and dowel it. Drilling it will be difficult, though, as the bit will want to walk off of the screw and into the surrounding wood, even with a drill press. If you can manage to get a pair of vise grips on the screw and back it out that way you'll be better off.
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#27
Cheers for the ideas guys.

Quote by nowa90
Get a drill bit for metal the size or bigger then the screw, and clamp it to a drill press and bore the metal out, dowel the hole, then re-drill. Were they screws from GFS? They are VERY prone to strip/break like that, even with pre-drilling.


Yep GFS screws, I have already gone out and brought new ones so hopefully it doesnt happen again.


Quote by KempGuitars
Have you applied the Danish Oil yet? If not, give the body a good sanding to remove the sanding sealer, then sand it to a minimum 600 grit before applying the oil directly to the wood.

Oil won't soak into the wood, which is the idea, if it's been sealed.


I applied sanding sealer then sanded it right back until the sealer only filled the gaps in the oak which was quite porous. This seems to have worked so far as its come up pretty smooth.

Quote by LeviMan_2001
Vise grips, and a bigger hole next time haha


Yeah my holes were all good I have a feeling that this one was just a tad too shallow. Oh well no biggy haha
#28
Update finally. The gat is 99% complete it has been wired up, stringed and it works!

Sounds pretty good, nice for med gain metal or rock tones. Sustains pretty good, not as good as my hardtail RR3 though. But I think that maybe because of the bridge and the strings not going through the body.

The clean tones are nice and bright, quite surprised by them, really nice with a bit of volume rolled back.

Still needs some adjusting like the nut filed down a bit and bridge adjusted for proper intonation and action height. But feels nice to play so far.

Anyways heres a couple of pics, will get some more detail shots when i get a hold of a better camera.

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Last edited by ithyphallic at Mar 11, 2012,