#1
My guitar has 2 frets that are coming out of the fret board a bit and i was wondering what would be the best way to bring them back down Hammering, clamping them or something else
#2
Take it to a professional and have it refretted.
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#4
way to much :p
if you have confidence enough you might wanna try and refret yourself, its not that difficult, but just hammering them in wont do the trick.
also for the cost, here in the NL it costs about 120 euros
#5
if you hit them with a hammer you will damage them. Drop in a little super glue and clamp till set. Do this only if you cannot afford a professional to sort it for you. Remember...a little super glue.
#6
Yeah,if they came out once, just putting them back isnt enough, they will just come out again. They might be loose enough to just push them back in, or you can hammer them if you are very gentle, and put a block of wood over them to spread out the force so you dont get little dents where you hit. Crazy glue works once only. Its not a repeatable event. If you are confident that your adjustments are correct, add just a drop at each end of the fret. If you care at all about the look of your fret board, use a tooth pick so there's no chance of squirting half a dozen drops onto the fret board. They will not wipe off.

Wood glue or Elmer's white glue is a lot easier to clean up, but takes a day or so to be fully dry. The advantage is if you dont get it perfect, you can try again. You would take the fret right out and put the white glue in the slot under the fret. Push the fret back in, tapping if necessary. Use a perfectly straight edge to check if the fret is the same height as its neighbours.

A luthier with all the tools does not aim for perfect fret height at install, he gets them close then files them to perfection. You can file too. The flat file for the first part of the job is cheap and readily available for a million other uses. The crowning file is specific to fretting, so it stinking expensive. It also not necessary if you only flat filed a tiny bit, so if you get Really really really close, but just a wee bit high, you can flat file to perfection and skip the crowning. If you're way out, and have to flat file a lot, then your way out fret looks dumb cuz its noticeably flat on top instead of round, and will play just a tiny bit sharp.
#8
Unless you have a neck jig to properly gauge and adjust the straightness of your neck, I would not attempt a refret.
You're going to need a soldering iron with a split chisel tip to pull those frets out. (a soldering gun is preferable, but you're going to have to take out your pickups so you don't demagnetize them.)
Once the frets are out, you're going to sand the fretboard being careful not to reradius it.(I start with 80 and work my way up to 320 grit.) once the fretboard is clean and sanded, apply wax and clean the fret slots of excess superglue from the original fret job. (slotting tool and dremel are ideal for this) Once the slots are clean, radius your fretwire and cut your frets. If you have a binding on your neck and plan on using standard fretwire, you're going to want to slightly overradius your wire and use a tang clipper to leave overhang on the binding. For jumbo frets, radius them to the exact radius. Use a few dots of superglue on each fret and hammer them in starting on one end of the fret, carrying over to the opposite end. Once all frets are seated, I like to use a razor blade to clean the excess glue and scrape-polish the board before clipping and filing fret ends to a fine bevel. Once the fretboard is cleanly scraped, I take my fret nipper and cut overhanging fret ends, then I use my jerry-rigged bastard file and file down my fret ends to a nice bevel. I then use 400 grit on the fret ends and finish with 800 grit/3 sided file to "bevel my bevels".

Now we can level the frets, but first you need to use a neck jig to check the straightness of the neck. I adjust the truss and bring the neck deadstraight. Now that the neck is straight, I tape off the fingerboard (keep in mind, all of these steps apply to an unfinished fretboard, ebony, rosewood etc.) and mark the top of the frets with a blue sharpie. I use my leveling bar with 320 grit to sand the frets until the blue is gone and a silver line appears from bevel to bevel. (for acoustics I use a separate leveling bar for the tongue's fallback)
now that the frets are level, I remove the tape, polish between the frets with 0000 steel wool, being careful to not go against the grain. I then retape the board, mark each fret once more with blue marker, and use a double edged offset crowning file to bring in each side of the fret, creating a very thin blue line on top of the fret. I try and get this line as thin as a possibly can, being very careful to not run over it or score it. (this is your level point on the fret, so keep it intact.)
Once the frets are crowned, I come in with 400 grit and 800 grit sandpaper on each side of the fret and get out any scratching. I usually don't hit the tops with sandpaper, but you can use 800 grit lightly. Once each fret is sanded, I finish them off with steel wool and bring them to a nice shine.

It took me a few fretjobs to really get the hang of it, so with time and practice and patience, you can do the above fairly easily, just practice on some crap guitars before the real deal. Hope this gives you an idea of the steps in a fretjob.

Cheers
Last edited by realbebop at Dec 18, 2011,