#1
so yesterday i had band practise and my jaguar was just going crazy...the E string kept on popping out and i had to stay stopping to put it back in. so i was thinking about getting a new bridge. id prefer it if i could intonate it properly (the mustang bridge cant be intonated very well). i would also like it to have a decently high action...nothing over the top just not what one would consider low.

i found on ebay a classic player bridge...how good is that? my jaguar is a CIJ 66 reissue - http://fenderjapan.co.jp/jg66.html

or would it be more worth it to simply invest in a buzz stop? (the metal piece that attaches to the tremelo to increase the angle of the strings

thanks
#2
i have a buzz-stop on my jazzmaster.

it solves the problem of strings popping out of the saddles and screws rattling loose, but might make you need to shorten the saddle mount screws - with the buzzstop you need to set the saddles very high off the bridge to prevent the strings from catching on the screw heads at the back of the bridge, but this also means that on some strings the threaded ends of the screws the saddles are attached to can stick up from the bridge high enough to make contact with the strings and cause weird buzzing and intonation problems especially higher up the fretboard.

one type of bridge i've heard a lot of good things about is the mastery bridge, but it seems quite pricey.
I like analogue Solid State amps that make no effort to be "tube-like", and I'm proud of it...

...A little too proud, to be honest.
#3
ok thanks...i like the action decently high anyway.
looks like ill get a buzz stop
#4
Quote by '93
ok thanks...i like the action decently high anyway.
looks like ill get a buzz stop

that's not really what i was getting at.

the problem with the buzz-stop is it can be difficult to get the high E string raised up enough to prevent it catching on the head of the intonation screw, without having the tip of the G string intonation screw poking out of the other side of the bridge far enough to snag against the string, whilst still having the correct string radius for the fretboard. Especially if you have an un-wound G string.

it should be possible to get the right balance of saddle height against bridge height and your desired action without any problems since you can adjust the whole bridge and the individual saddles separately, but it might be a lengthy and frustrating process.
I like analogue Solid State amps that make no effort to be "tube-like", and I'm proud of it...

...A little too proud, to be honest.
#5
ah ok i get what you mean...ill get it anyway. i dont mind taking a while to set it up and if in the end it gives good results then its ok by me

would it be possible to maybe file away a bit of the intonation screw should the string touch both parts of the screw?
#6
yep, i think a lot of people file down the tips of the intonation screws if they cause problems.
I like analogue Solid State amps that make no effort to be "tube-like", and I'm proud of it...

...A little too proud, to be honest.