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#41
Thanks guys!

Whats the point of the allen nut on the side of the side of the heel, ? truss rod adjustement?


Exactly.

thats one sexy lookin' red guitar, maybe some clearcoat to go on it? and maybe black hardware?


I'm still in a toss-up between clearcoat and an oil finish. Oil might be winning right now, actually. And I've already got all the black hardware in

And Gandalf, I've already got the DPDT switch for the burn, so I may as well use it Thanks for the suggestion, though, might be good in the future.
#42
depends on what type of gloss you want on it i suppose, look at some different samples and see what you like, different techniques and different thicknesses will create different appearances.
#43
Time for another update... all front routing is done! Aside from the holes for the controls, but thats because the control cavity isn't done yet. Next I'll be doing the back routs, which should be fairly straightforward aside from the ring around the control cavity. But we'll see how that goes, an MDF template on top of the normal template should make for fairly easy work.

But, pics. All of them except the last 2 make the wood look brown, but it's still the same red. You can see it in the last 2 test fit pics.










And with a hardware test fit...
#44
out of interest, how do you fix your acrylic templates to the body?
Epiphone Les Paul Plus Top
Jet City JCA5212RC (SLO Modded)
Ibanez WD7 Wah
Mad Professor Sweet Honey Overdrive
TC Electronic Flashback Triple Delay
TC Electronic Trinity Reverb
#45
looks like double sided turners tape. Looking good so far bro!
Just call me Julius, J, etc.
Taking an Internet break for a while, will come on when I can.
#46
damn.. gunna look sweet when its done
#1 2001 MII Jackson DK-2
#2 1995 MIK modded Fender squire
#3 2001 MIK Squier Stagemaster Deluxe
#4 2007 MIJ DKMG/DXMG Jackson
#5 1985 MIA Gibson SG Special
#6 1999 MIK ESP LTD M107
#47
Quote by GABarrie
out of interest, how do you fix your acrylic templates to the body?

Just used some double sided tape for these ones. I use clamps for the ones I can because they're easier, but these were too small for that.

Thanks guys!
Last edited by -Blue- at Feb 21, 2012,
#48
More progress!

Got the back trem cavity and the control cavity all routed out now... it's impressive how much lighter the body is getting after all of these.








Test fit the covers...


Whew.

Now, the trem fits better in the front too, now that the cavity goes all the way through.




Now that I'm thinking about controls, I've come across an issue... should I shield the control cavity somehow? I know some people use foil, and some people use some sort of paint... any recommendations? I don't know a whole lot about the electronics side of things (compared to some of you regular luthiers, that is).
#50
Wow man, this is looking really awesome! It is really coming together!

I will reverberate the mentality of everyone else so far when I say that I am jealous of that beautiful Padauk!

As for shielding, meh, I have never found it necessary. I can't imagine you would with humbuckers.
#51
Damn that end grain!

Quote by -Blue-
Now that I'm thinking about controls, I've come across an issue... should I shield the control cavity somehow? I know some people use foil, and some people use some sort of paint... any recommendations? I don't know a whole lot about the electronics side of things (compared to some of you regular luthiers, that is).
You should shield.

Copper tape is the better shielder, but paint looks much better and is easier to apply.




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#53
I feel like its between 1 3/4 and 2. OP, I never shielded any cavities before and they aren't any louder then the shielded guitars I own. I don't see a point, but I will do it on this PRS build because they seem really worried about buzz and I may as well make them feel ok about it.
Just call me Julius, J, etc.
Taking an Internet break for a while, will come on when I can.
#55
Alright, thanks everyone; I think I will bypass shielding unless there's some easily obtainable, cheap shielding paint. My wallet has suffered enough throughout this project

Also, it's a 1 3/4" thick body. Once the sanding and contours are done, it should look regular, although it does look thick in some of the pictures. And the wood was definitely a lucky find, the Woodcraft I went to never had 2" thick boards until I was actually starting the project. Got the only one
#56
Good news: I'm on spring break from college now, and should be getting more done faster on the project! (Some people go to the beach. Screw those people.)

The plan today is just sanding the edges to get them perfectly smooth and to match the shape exactly, then roundover the edges on the back in preparation for contouring. I took a picture of my "planning workstation" (read: pool table) as I've been planning the different contours, mainly because I feel like some kind of awesome architect/inventor.



Pictures and updates will come in much more frequently now. And if you're wondering what the angles/design are in the bottom paper, I'm building a jig for making the belly contour with a bandsaw. If anybody would like pictures of that process as a reference for their own project, let me know, as I'll have to get someone to take pictures while I'm doing it.
#57
Just got in from working on it more... had to do a LOT of sanding on the edges to get it smooth. That's been on and off the past 2 days, as I've had a lot going on. So the guitar spent most of its time in a position like this:



Those horns were the devil to sand.

But aside from that, after it was smooth, I was able to go along the edges with a 1/4" roundover bit... very pleased with the results. It looks a lot more finished now.





And of course, pics with the neck in (because I like them):





Next step: contours. I'm having second thoughts on the PRS-esque "scoop" I was planning. We'll see.
#58
Awesome build man! Those contours are going to fill out the guitar nicely!
I have felt the taste of sound.
#59
Guitar looks great. Is that a first gen Miata in the background?
Guitars-
Epiphone Les Paul Custom
Dean Evo XM with EMG 81/85
Epiphone Stratocaster
Eastman AC120 Dreadnought
Martin Backpacker
Squire P-Bass
Kala Mahogany Tenor Ukulele
#60
I love this build!
Aren't you going to put a arm bevel so it's more comfortable to play?
#61
Thanks everyone!

Quote by Bandrew
Guitar looks great. Is that a first gen Miata in the background?

Yes, but we also affectionately refer to it as my dad's mid-life crisis

Quote by X-plorer88
I love this build!
Aren't you going to put a arm bevel so it's more comfortable to play?

Yep, arm bevel and belly contour (I'm thinking no scoop now). I had read that you want to do the roundover first, then do the contours; and there's a method for getting a good roundover through sanding on the new edges.
#62
Just got the back contour done... one jig, a failed bandsaw attempt, and 5 strip sander belts later.

First off, here's the guitar clamped to the jig I built. Realized that the second clamp would get in the way of the bandsaw, so it was time to get creative.



That's right... a zip tie. Got it tight enough, served as a very good clamp. However, when I went to bandsaw it, the top of the guitar body actually hit the top of the bandsaw, so it couldn't be passed through anymore. So that left the option of the strip sander. Not the most effective tool for the job, but it worked out. Here's a pic of some strip sanding in action:


And here, the contour before/after some generous sanding. There's still more work to do here, but it's feeling very smooth now aside from one valley.


#63
Seeing your updates everyday make me happy and inspire me to get back to work on my checkerboard guitar build! Keep up the great work!
#65
I'm stealing that jig :p

EDIT: and your bandsaw... I'd need the bandsaw
Epiphone Les Paul Plus Top
Jet City JCA5212RC (SLO Modded)
Ibanez WD7 Wah
Mad Professor Sweet Honey Overdrive
TC Electronic Flashback Triple Delay
TC Electronic Trinity Reverb
Last edited by GABarrie at Mar 9, 2012,
#68
Hows paduak work with and weigh? I may use it instead of mahogany next superstrat (if I can find a piece big enough)
Just call me Julius, J, etc.
Taking an Internet break for a while, will come on when I can.
#70
Wood Database says its almost the same weight wise as peruvian walnut, but almost twice as hard. Maybe I'll use it just for the neck or something.
Just call me Julius, J, etc.
Taking an Internet break for a while, will come on when I can.
#71
Quote by nowa90
Hows paduak work with and weigh? I may use it instead of mahogany next superstrat (if I can find a piece big enough)

It's very heavy, and it's dense/hard. Jason's right, red dust gets EVERYWHERE. I've been doing constant damage control with a vaccuum and it's still insane. As for workability, it's defeated 2 bandsaw blades, 5 strip sander belts, and 2 belt sanding belts. It's quite hard, but it's a good way to make sure you don't remove too much material at once

But, got the control holes drilled today, still just need to do the slot for the pickup selector. Did a test fit too.



#76
Time for me to continue to tease.



Not a whole lot of progress, but I got some holes for the trem drilled, and I did some sanding (the orange color had been fading a bit, it's back now. I'm storing it inside and covered up). Only 6 holes left to drill (4 in the neck pocket, 2 for the trem claw) and then it's just sanding and finishing.

...Well, and wiring. I'm starting to learn how to solder
#79
Quick question: I'm going home tomorrow to drill the holes for the trem claw, and then do the final sanding to get ready for finishing. How do I know exactly where to drill them? Do I just center the claw on the wall and use those hole positions? And I'll have to be drilling at an angle, so do I just get it as close to perpendicular as I can? I've tried to find resources for this, but I keep finding different answers.
#80
I think its more of an aesthetics sort of thing. You basically want the springs to be parallel to the direction of movement (and if you routed the spring cavity correctly, the sides of the cavity). It will most likely be center but draw a line from the center of your trem block to the wall where the claw will be and thatll be the center of the claw id imagine.

Drilling on an angle is fine. I know I couldnt get a screwdriver into the cavity completely so i just tried to get it as perpendicular as I could. Use a really long drill bit to predrill the hole to make it easier