#1
Hello,

I have a set of pickups on order and I am gathering the items I need to install them so I will be ready to go when they arrive. I am taking out the active pickups in the guitar and replacing them with passives.

I need to get one volume and one tone pot. I am looking around and I see Audio, linear and no load pots. What is the difference? What should I get? I am installing humbuckers, so I am figuring that I need 500k, but I don't know which ones to get.

Is there a difference between volume pots and tone pots? I don't see anything that is actually labeled as a "tone" pot.

Are capaciters nessacary, where are they connected and what do the values mean?

I have never installed pickups before, but I do know how to solder, so I am sure that I should be able to handle it myself. I don't really want to pay someone money I don't have to do something I can do myself.

Any and all help is much appreciated.
#2
Nice!

For more targetted help, what kind of pickups are they? Make and model would be good, and we can go from there. It can be a bit of a minefield.
#5
Sorry, scratch that last post.

Here's a link to a very useful website:
http://www.guitarelectronics.com/category/wiring_resources_guitar_wiring_diagrams.2_pickup_guitar_wiring_diagrams/

Scroll down through the diagram list to get the configuration you want. If you can't get what you need, Bareknuckle have some resources on PDF that were useful to me installing 8 string Warpigs into my self build.

One thing they don't mention though. I went for 1 meg pots on the volume, and they provided me with more presence. The tone pots are 500k, push pull, wired to coil tap the pups independently. There is no specific 'tone' or 'volume' pot, as they are just variable resistors, and can be both 500k if you want, as you would find in a typical Les Paul. For caps, .33pF caps would be typical, but different values can be experimented with.

Because the pups are passive, screening may be an issue to prevent unwanted outside interference. Passive pups are more susceptible to this, especially with higher gain players. You can choose to line the cavity with copper tape (available from garden centres as a slug barrier) but this may be overkill. Instead, first use the centre of some screened cable to wire the output of the selector switch to the tip contact of the jack output. Then use the screen for the ground, wiring it to the sleeve of the jack output. This is quite an efficient noise solution. If there's still a problem, try lining the cavity.
#6
Oh, btw, caps are very necessary if you want to bleed frequencies with your tone pot. It's the caps that provide this function.
#7
Small amendment. The tip contact for the jack socket should be wired to the centre tag of the volume pot, not to the output of the toggle switch, for your particular config.
#9
"Audio" pots have a logarithmic taper, which means that most of the change in volume occurs in the first quarter or so. They're usually used for tone. Linear pots have a straight taper, with an even change throughout the entire rotation. Use these pots for volume. As for sealed pots, it looks like they're just made so that you can't take the casing off and get at the inner mechanism. I don't know if they'd be particularly suited for a guitar, but you can be the judge of that.