#1
So I want to install locking tuners on my kramer strat and it has the old vintage size holes. The hole size I need is 7/16 in. I also don't want to damage the paint on the front of the headstock. What kind of bit should I use and how should I go about doing this?
tpt
#4
^Its ridiculously expensive though, as most of Stewmacs tools are. For all of their tools, there are almost always cheaper alternatives available that are practically identical.
Last edited by littlephil at Jan 1, 2012,
#5
Quote by Way Cool JR.
Since most Kramer's have FRs and a locking nut you would just be wasting your money and time installing locking tuners. You will not get any better tuning stability and it won't make string changes any easier/faster either. What's wrong with the tuners thats on it now?


Mines from 1986. pretty much the same as a strat, only majar difference is the headstock. I'm only using the neck, body, and pickguard. Everything else is new.
tpt
#6
As long as you keep the drill speed up and push slow and even straight thru you shouldnt have a problem starting on the front. Its the backside of a drilling project that is prone to major chipping. I drill 7/8 thru on the front and flip it over to finish the backside. Any chipping I have had gets covered buy that washer thing.
I know with laminate stuff if you put masking tape on the surface it helps to keep the finish from chipping. But as always proceed with caution! And if the holes are really close to the edge of the head be carefull to. You dont want to break that.
What the hell!!!
#7
Quote by danvwman
As long as you keep the drill speed up and push slow and even straight thru you shouldnt have a problem starting on the front. Its the backside of a drilling project that is prone to major chipping. I drill 7/8 thru on the front and flip it over to finish the backside. Any chipping I have had gets covered buy that washer thing. I know with laminate stuff if you put masking tape on the surface it helps to keep the finish from chipping. But as always proceed with caution! And if the holes are really close to the edge of the head be carefull to. You dont want to break that.


alright, thank you. thats such a simple solution.
tpt
#8
I would not drill from the front at all. Take thedrill bit from the back of the headstock and go almost all the way through it. but leave a little bit to help hold the tuner bushing tighter.

I have bought the StewMac rear peghole reamer, and it is a great investment if your going to do lots of them.
2002 PRS CE22
2013 G&L ASAT Deluxe
2009 Epiphone G-400 (SH-4)
Marshall JCM2000 DSL100
Krank 1980 Jr 20watt
Krank Rev 4x12 (eminence V12)
GFS Greenie/Digitech Bad Monkey
Morley Bad Horsie 2
MXR Smart Gate
#9
Quote by Robbgnarly
I would not drill from the front at all. Take thedrill bit from the back of the headstock and go almost all the way through it. but leave a little bit to help hold the tuner bushing tighter.

I have bought the StewMac rear peghole reamer, and it is a great investment if your going to do lots of them.


I would, but the ones I got dont have bushings at all. They're the newer style where the a washer and hex nut hold the peg tight.
tpt
#10
if you do use a drill bit make sure to advance in sizes on by one, don't just go from 1/4 to like 1/2 or any of that, advance slowlyI don't know what your starting size is 1/4 to 7/16 would be ok but you don't wanna make too heavy of a change
Last edited by Viban at Jan 2, 2012,
#11
Quote by Viban
if you do use a drill bit make sure to advance in sizes on by one, don't just go from 1/4 to like 1/2 or any of that, advance slowlyI don't know what your starting size is 1/4 to 7/16 would be ok but you don't wanna make too heavy of a change


what would this help? just wandering
tpt
#15
I have a Kramer bass with the opposite problem. I'm still trying to decide what to use to fill the extra space.
#16
For drilling without tearout on the back, clamp a piece of waste hardwood on the back (at least 1/2" thick). Use another thin piece on the front of the headstock to protect from the clamp. Drill through and into the waste wood. Works every time. Garden variety twist bits don't lend themselves to chip-free drilling on the front, though. The only thing they do is allow you to center a bigger bit in an existing hole. The best is a Forstner bit in a drill press, but aligning it with the existing hole is difficult. You may get 3 or 4 of 6 correct, but your tuners will undoubtedly end up misaligned with each other unless you use a milling machine instead of a drill press. Twist drills will work if, as already mentioned, you go in small steps.

The best method is the already mentioned dowel with sandpaper, working slowly, or a tapered reamer.
PRS SC245
Various Strats
Polytone Mini Brute
Koch Studiotone XL
Quilter OD200, 101 Reverb and Mini
1958 National lap steel
Eastman El Rey 1
#17
Gotta say I wouldnt have the guts to drill a tuner hole larger, think id pay for the reamer.
Gibson 58 RI VOS Custombuckers
Mesa Lonestar Special 2x12
#18
Quote by perszzac
I would, but the ones I got dont have bushings at all. They're the newer style where the a washer and hex nut hold the peg tight.

well I ment the nut and washer. I was just thinking bushing .
2002 PRS CE22
2013 G&L ASAT Deluxe
2009 Epiphone G-400 (SH-4)
Marshall JCM2000 DSL100
Krank 1980 Jr 20watt
Krank Rev 4x12 (eminence V12)
GFS Greenie/Digitech Bad Monkey
Morley Bad Horsie 2
MXR Smart Gate