#1
I've finally come to the decision that my Hartke LH500 deserves more than to be powering a behringer 2x10. As such I've searched high and low for a suitable replacement for it but have come up short to say the least. I have 3 simple requirements in a cab and unfortunately there is very little out there that meets those requirements. They are:

1) compact
2) able to handle 300 watts at 8 ohms
3) cheap

Now we all know that it's relatively easy to find compact cab that can handle the output on my head. It's not so easy to find them in a wallet friendly version. With this in mind I've decided to explore the option on building my own 1x12 cab. I will of course be posting the arduously slow process in this thread.

I plan on basing my design around this speaker

http://www.fane-acoustics.com/prod_details.aspx?pid=202

for the sole reason of I can get it cheap.

Any thoughts/insights/knowledge are all welcome
Quote by bassmanjoe08
Dan

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#2
I was about to suggest a Barefaced Midget, until I got to your third requirement. Unfortunately building a cab is not something I have a great deal of experience with, but good luck.
#3
Have you considered building a Fitzmaurice cabinet? Step by step instructions, and not very difficulty.

http://www.billfitzmaurice.com/Omni12.html

I've heard very good things.
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Warwick Thumb BO 4
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Sadowsky MV4 Jazz

Markbass LittleMark II
AccuGroove Tri12l
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#4
I'm an old geezer. Over the years I've built many cabs in the interest of getting exactly what I want and saving money at the same time. Never happened.

In order to build a cab from scratch that you will be happy with you must have enough money to buy the components to build a 1x12 cab, as well as enough money to buy a new or used 1x12 cab to replace the P.O.S. that you built. Or, at least that's been my experience thus far.

It will be cheaper (and much easier) to go on the hunt and find a used 1x12 or 1x15 cab. Buy it and be done with it.
#5
^ That depends on how much of a craftsman you are. As a complete amateur, you may never be happy with it (the enclosure plays such a large part in the sound), but if you're good at craftsmanship and such, you may be able to produce something you're happy with.

I know that my old man (who plays guitar) was never happy with any of the amps he'd owned, and ended up building a slightly modified JCM amp and cabinet. He's had it for a good few years, and it's all he needs now. But he's good at all that kind of stuff, personally I wouldn't know where to begin.

Perhaps you'd make it easier for yourself to find a particular model of speaker to try and "copy". The end result may be better that way.
#6
First I would decide on what you want (which it looks like you have done) and then after you have that go about planning out how to build it.

The one thing I can't stress enough is to plan out everything and double check it all. When i built my 410 I ended up wasting about 150 dollars on stupid mistakes like not realising my jigsaw was bent etc.

Figure out what speaker you want and most sites should give some kind of spec sheet, which will hopefully provide an optimum capacity in litres for your cab. So if the spec sheet says the speaker will run optimally at 80 liters you want to base the measurements of your cab around that, eg. 200mm x 200mm x 200 mm, remembering these are internal dimensions.


Also, i was having a read through my own "building a cab" thread from two years ago and realised i didn't put up any photos or progress reports from my own build like i said i would. I feel like a bit of a dick now especially since Phill Starr gave me so much help and the thread got 4,600 views. I might try and rehash some old photos and give the thread a necro Also fairly surprised i managed to build a cab at all, reading through is telling me how much of an idiot i was.

EDIT: also why not a 212? I suppose with a 112 you don't have to worry about wiring or anything but I had a play with one of those new markbass 12cdp (i think that's the name) combos and it had the most clear (for lack of a better word) tone I had heard in a while, but with a turn of those nifty markbass knobs you could get a nice punchy tone our of it
Last edited by Bass First at Jan 13, 2012,
#7
Check out winISD, it's a program that allows you to insert the Thiele parameters of your speaker and you'll get the right dimensions, how big a port, etc at the other end. Great piece of software!
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#8
Quote by Bass First

EDIT: also why not a 212?


Im guessing because of this:

Quote by skater dan0

1) compact
Current Gear:

Warwick Thumb BO 4
Musicman "StatusRay" Stingray 4 - Carbon Fibre Neck
Musicman Stingray 5 HH
Sadowsky MV4 Jazz

Markbass LittleMark II
AccuGroove Tri12l
Sansamp VT Bass
Line6 BassPodXT Live

CHECK OUT MY YOUTUBE CHANNEL!
#9
I made a 1x10 out of a old rage 158 combo amp, took a lot of help, and it was kind of a dud. It rattles and can't be turned up over bedroom level without harsh buzzing, of course none of it was designed for perfect unity between enclosure and speaker. It probably cost me $100 amp included.

I don't mean to discourage you. I don't think anyone is here, but it's like anything else, usually you lose a few to win one. You can make it compact and handle that speaker, but cheap and nice sound is hard to achieve. Will it be cheaper building one cab than say buying a new Markbass cab? Yes. Will those mistakes, trials and eventual rebuilds scrapping and other problems cost more yes as well.
#10
Quote by Killerfridge
Im guessing because of this:

Well i'd still call a 212 reasonably compact
#11
To have a successful build you need to design a bass speaker properly. The cab and speaker work together as a tuned unit especially as you will probably go for a ported design where the dimensions are critical.

Read this http://www.ultimate-guitar.com/columns/gear_maintenance/cabinets_for_guitars.html

and it should link to one on choosing drive units.

The Fane speaker you are proposing to use is a general purpose speaker with a flat response, the sort you get in PA speakers. In practice it will sound like DI'ing your bass. This is a sound I like but it won't have the midrange hump which make a lot of bass speakers sound 'punchy'. It also is slightly underdamped for a ported cab which is why the frequency curve shows a hump in the bass response. On the + side the excursion (Xmax) is excellent so it will shift a lot of air for a small speaker without distorting. I've used Fanes for years and had no problems with them. I currently use a 2x10 with Fane 10=300's.

Another 12 " which I have tried is the Beyma SM212 which is a better quality speaker and a bargain even if it is more than the Fane. Mine sound lovely with bass, really clean sounding and they go really deep.

If you can afford a little more then the Eminence Neo's are very highly rated and will give you a lightweight cab.

Building a cab is a matter of temperament. If you are patient careful and design it properly there is nothing more rewarding for a bassist. You'll learn loads. It is usually cheaper to buy a ready made used cab especially at the bargain basement end but building can give you a better quality cab for a great price.

If you decide to go ahead you will need to learn to drive one of the design programs like winISD (free) or I can give you dimensions if you want.

Cheers, or is it iechyd da.
#12
I did download winisd in the past and could not figure it out. I guess that's probably because I didn't have enough data to put into it. I'll give it another try and see what it comes out with.

It's nice to hear that you've had some experience with Fane speakers, looking at the stats sheet would you say it would work better in a sealed or ported cab?

Diolch yn fawr Phil
Quote by bassmanjoe08
Dan

Don't stop being you <3


Quote by fatgoogle
I think after this relentless adding for the last 10 mins, that Dan is the coolest looking. Goddamn welsh people and my great etc etc etc etc etc granddad is welsh.
#13
Right I'm trying to build the speaker in WINisd, can anyone who understands it check these numbers for me

Qts - 0.51
Vas - 66l
Fs - 50Hz
Re - 5.9ohm
Le - 2.36mH
Xmax - 0.0517m
Z - 8ohms
Qms - 7.5
Qes - 0.53
SPL - ????
PE - 2000W
BL - 16.37
dia - 0.3m
SD - 0.162m^2

http://www.fane-acoustics.com/prod_details.aspx?pid=202

How do I work out or find SPL for a speaker?
Quote by bassmanjoe08
Dan

Don't stop being you <3


Quote by fatgoogle
I think after this relentless adding for the last 10 mins, that Dan is the coolest looking. Goddamn welsh people and my great etc etc etc etc etc granddad is welsh.
#15
Hi,

PE is 500W it doesn't matter though as your amp will only give 350W into 8ohms so you might just as well put that figure in and find out the real life output of your speaker. It won't make any difference to the design calculations if you change this figure, just the maximum output graph it draws for you.

winISD will calculate the spl for you from the thiele parameters and it will be more accurate than the manufacturers figures.

The way winISD works is that as you enter the parameters it checks the formulae and auto calculates the remaining figures. Some of the manufacturers figures will be 'measuremnts' which may be subject to errors due to the imperfections/variations in the measurement process. It likes to start with physical measurements like mass and force which are most likely to be accurate. For example it will calculate the resonant frequency (fs) from the mass of the cone (mms) and the springiness of the suspension (cms).

Enter the figures in this order

Mms and Cms

Sd Re and Bl

By now it will have calculated most of the rest of your figures

enter Qms

enter Hc (coil length) and Hg ( magnet gap length) or Xmax


voice coils is 1 and Znom is 8 ohms

done

Looking in the Fane catalogue (how sad am I) the 12-500LF and the 12-300 both have the same 56 oz magnet and the 2.5" voice coil. The 300 has a slightly lighter cone and a floppier suspension. The 500 has a heavy (and stiffer) cone. The voice coil of the 500 is slightly longer and the ventilation on the magnet has been improved to increase the power handling slightly. If you look at the frequency plots the 300 has a slightly raised output above 1kHz whilst that of the 500 falls slightly. I think that in practice the 300 will sound subtly better for bass than the 500 which the manufacturer has designed for a 2 way cabinet.

the big difference though is in the Qts. You really need Qts to be below 0.4 for a successful ported design. The 500 has the hump in bass frequency which you always get if Qts is above 0.4. You will also get a smaller (and lighter) cab by using the 300 and it will go deeper. All of this is going to be quite subtle though, far less dramatic than changing to new strings for example. If you can get them at the same price I'd go for the 300 not the 500. Either should be OK with your amp for power handling unless you use a lot of distortion pretty much all the time! If you already have the 500 don't worry though the difference won't be much.

winISD is a bit techie in nature. There's a simpler program to drive http://www.ajdesigner.com/speaker/ajvented.php
which will do the same calculations. It is less flexible than winISD but a lot clearer. It only gives the sizes of ideal boxes.

Dont forget to add on 3l to the volume to allow for bracing and the size of the speaker itself.

Sorry you've exhausted my Welsh.
#16
Quote by Phil Starr

winISD is a bit techie in nature. There's a simpler program to drive http://www.ajdesigner.com/speaker/ajvented.php
which will do the same calculations. It is less flexible than winISD but a lot clearer. It only gives the sizes of ideal boxes.
.



Thank you! winISD has always been more than my uninitiated, uneducated self could handle.
#17
Quote by rexherring
Here you go, 400W, 30 pounds, small, and cheap $250.

http://www.carvinguitars.com/products/single.php?product=115MB


Carvin's are a bitch to get hold of in Britain and the prices don't translate well either. If it's $250 it'll probably retail for £400 here
Quote by bassmanjoe08
Dan

Don't stop being you <3


Quote by fatgoogle
I think after this relentless adding for the last 10 mins, that Dan is the coolest looking. Goddamn welsh people and my great etc etc etc etc etc granddad is welsh.