#1
Model: Fender 57' Reissue Maple Neck Strat MIJ Since 1993
I'm not so sure if these things are reissued exactly according to the original.
JUST MAKING SURE...
1) Is the neck profile C/V/U Shape?
2) Is the neck radius 7.25 or how do I measure it?
3) What finish is my maple neck?
4) What finish is my strat body?
5) For my maple neck, the back part is always extremely sticky and my fingers often gets stuck while playing which is getting really annoying, after reading the first few pages of Dan Erlewine's book "Guitar Player Repair Guide". How about just simply using the "moist breath fog" method, which is to blow my warm, moist breath on the sticky area until it fogs up, then quickly wipe off the dirt using naphtha / cotton cloth WITH warm water. Then, as I got suggested from someone, get some talc pouch bag from the bowling/pool table center. And spread the powder around the maple neck as it will come through the fabric like a cloud of dust and make it smooth. Do you guys think this would be a good method? I don't really wanna use sandpaper/steel wool/lemon oil as they might damage the neck's finish, especially a "vintage" maple neck.



Last edited by Jimmy25 at Jan 19, 2012,
#2
1. Looks like a a C.
2. If it's a '57 reissue, then it might be 7,25. Old Fenders had such tiny radii - modern ones have around 9 or 10.
3. It seems to be just standard gloss lacquer.
4. Hard to say just by looking. If it's trying to be close to a real '57 Strat, I'd say it's most likely nitro.
5. You could try. But, if it bothers you, you could just also take it to a luthier / repairer, and have them thin the coat a bit.
Gear:

Guitars: Ibanez SV5470F, Ibanez Xpt700, Fender MIM Standard Stratocaster ('04-'05), Jackson Ps-2
Ashton AG200,
Amps: ENGL E530, Bugera 6262-212,
FX: TC Electronics G-major 2, Behringer EQ700, Morley Volume / Wah
#3
the finish is not likely to be nitro as very few fenders have a true nitro finish these days. it's most likely to be a poly finish of some sort. the neck looks to be a C and the fretboard appears to be 7.25 as the japanese tend to do this for vintage reissues (fender tends to go with the more current 9.5" radius even on many of the reissues). the body may also be made of basswood as this is also a common thing with japanese fenders.
#4
Would be nice to know when it was manufactured. Saying "since 1993" doesn't really make sense, as that leaves open a 19-year window. The ST57s were mostly made from Basswood or Alder, C-shape neck, 7.25" radius. Definitely a poly finish, although I hear there are (some) exist with a nitro finish.
Quote by Dunning~Kruger
Yes I was rude, and I was aggressive and I was offending a large group of people. But I was civlized about it.

Taylor 414CE
#5
Re-issues tend to not be 100% accurate. I assume it'll have the V neck and the 7.25 radius, along with reasonably accurate pickups/hardware. But the finish will be a thicker polyester finish (more than likely).

I'm sure it's a fine guitar, even if it isn't exactly the same as a '57.
#6
Email your serial number to customer support on Fender's website, and they'll give you the full specs. That's what I did with my Japanese Strat. They got me all my info the next day.
OBEY THE MIGHTY SHITKICKER
#7
Quote by Jimmy25
Model: Fender 57' Reissue Maple Neck Strat MIJ Since 1993
I'm not so sure if these things are reissued exactly according to the original.
JUST MAKING SURE...
1) Is the neck profile C/V/U Shape?
2) Is the neck radius 7.25 or how do I measure it?
3) What finish is my maple neck?
4) What finish is my strat body?
5) For my maple neck, the back part is always extremely sticky and my fingers often gets stuck while playing which is getting really annoying, after reading the first few pages of Dan Erlewine's book "Guitar Player Repair Guide". How about just simply using the "moist breath fog" method, which is to blow my warm, moist breath on the sticky area until it fogs up, then quickly wipe off the dirt using naphtha / cotton cloth WITH warm water. Then, as I got suggested from someone, get some talc pouch bag from the bowling/pool table center. And spread the powder around the maple neck as it will come through the fabric like a cloud of dust and make it smooth. Do you guys think this would be a good method? I don't really wanna use sandpaper/steel wool/lemon oil as they might damage the neck's finish, especially a "vintage" maple neck.
Didn't you just post a giant thread with a huge spiel about how none of this stuff matters as long as you like the guitar? And then kept bumping it?

1) You shouldn't be asking us this. You are the one with the guitar in your hands. You tell us if the neck is C shaped, U shaped or V shaped. The originals were not held to as strict spec standards are they are today seeing that they were largely hand finished. So not every original '57 strat is going to have the same neck shape.

2) With a template. Use a drafting compass that can be set to 7.25" and draw a circle on a piece of cardboard, cut it out and use that to see if it matches your fretboard radius. If you don't have a compass, just cut a piece of string 7.25" long and use that to draw a circle.

3) Poly. If that guitar was made in '93 and the neck is still glossy like that, then it's poly. Plus, MIJ Fenders are usually poly.

4) Poly. MIJ Fenders are usually poly. My '80s Fender '62 reissue body is poly.

5) If you don't want for it to be sticky anymore, then just take some 0000 steel wool to it. People don't buy MIJ guitars for their collector's value, except for the very early ones (sort of... but even then), they buy them because they are good, high quality players that can be had for a reasonable price. I wouldn't worry too much about damaging the finish on a "vintage" maple neck, because it's not REALLY a "vintage" maple neck.
Last edited by al112987 at Jan 19, 2012,
#8
very much appreciated for all the replies guys!
I think C-shape 7.25" radius is confirmed.
However, question 3 and 4 are still a mystery XD
I'm confused.. half of the ppl are saying the neck and body is poly finish
and another half says nitro...
question 5.. was my method not very good..?
#9
It's finished in nitro. It's supposed to be sticky. Play the hell out of it, and eventually the nitro will wear down, and it will be glorious.

You got a '57 reissue. That's how they used to make em.
Spin 'round carousel when your horse isn't screwed in.

My band:
Fractured Instinct
(For fans of Death/Groove/Prog Metal)

Ibanez RGA42E
Ibanez S420
LTD H-301
Ibanez RG520
Peavey Predator USA
Douglas Grendel 725
Line 6 Pod HD500X
#10
^Uh... the MIJ reissues were, for the most part, poly finished? Wow guys, just because it's sticky does not make it nitro. And just because it's a reissue of a nitro finished guitar doesn't mean it's nitro. Go play a Fender Classic Player's 50s or 60s strat, those necks will also get sticky, even though they're poly. Any high gloss finish can get sticky, regardless of what the finish is. The MIJ reissues are almost all poly finished. Besides, a nitro neck, after 20 years will not still be that glossy and sticky unless the guitar was literally barely played. One look at the frets on that guitar and I can tell you that it has been played.

The stereotypical "57 neck shape" is a V shape. Not a C, but it's variable.
Last edited by al112987 at Jan 19, 2012,
#11
still no definite answer either it's a poly or nitro finish...
a nitro/poly can both be sticky
and we can't judge it's a nitro/poly
according to how this model should always have
it could be done differently..
so how exactly can I tell which one is it and get a definite answer....
#14
I didn't get any reply sending email to fender... how disappointing..

my friend said my strat's neck and body is poly,
he said Nitro finish is only on american vintage reissue
mine is Japanese vintage reissue...
#17
My email from Fender took 3 or 4 days to reply. Just have patience. If it's Japanese, it's probably a Poly paint with a 7.25" radius.
OBEY THE MIGHTY SHITKICKER
#18
Quote by Jimmy25
still no definite answer either it's a poly or nitro finish...
a nitro/poly can both be sticky
and we can't judge it's a nitro/poly
according to how this model should always have
it could be done differently..
so how exactly can I tell which one is it and get a definite answer....
Wow dude, do you keep ignoring my posts or something? No one can give you a definite answer because none of us have the guitar in our hands.

We CAN judge the guitar based on how this model should be. It's a MIJ reissue, they are typically poly finishes.

Secondly, you can look at the body and it screams poly finish. You can tell by feeling the finish. A poly finish is hard and durable, a nitro finish is soft and wears very easily. That's why poly finishes usually stay looking new after several years unless a nitro finish literally has barely been touched. I can take my guitar pick, press it with light pressure into my les paul's finish and it will make a dent. The finish on your guitar, even after 20 years, is still thick and glossy. No signs of denting, no signs of even the slightest bit of checking. A nitro finish, especially as thin as the ones that Fenders use, will start to check after20 years, especially if it's been played.

I know you probably want to hear that it's nitro... but it's probably not nitro.
Last edited by al112987 at Jan 20, 2012,
#19
I have a feeling this guitar isn't going to be in the arsenal very long.
Quote by Dunning~Kruger
Yes I was rude, and I was aggressive and I was offending a large group of people. But I was civlized about it.

Taylor 414CE
#20
Quote by cdr_salamander
I have a feeling this guitar isn't going to be in the arsenal very long.
Agreed.

To the TS:

If you cannot tell whether the guitar is finished in nitro or poly, then why does it even matter in the slightest? If you like the guitar the way it is, then stop worrying about it. I keep getting the impression that you have regrets about this guitar and you are trying to convince yourself otherwise or are somehow in denial about it or something and I'm not really sure why. It's a very nice looking guitar and it looks like that it plays well and it probably sounds good. I also have a MIJ strat that I absolutely adore, partially because I don't have unrealistic expectations about it. Don't expect to have a nitro finished reissue guitar without paying a few thousands of USD. If you cannot handle paying that much money, then live with the compromises. How well a guitar is built and how well it plays is far more important than what it is finished in.

Half the stuff you asked about doesn't even matter because you don't even know what half of it entails. If you can't tell that the guitar has a 7.25" radius, then why does it matter if you enjoy playing the guitar? If you can't tell the guitar is poly or nitro, then why does it matter if you enjoy playing the guitar? If you can't tell the neck shape, then why does it matter if you enjoy playing the guitar?

If you want the peace of mind that this reissue is "exactly" the same as the original and cannot live with it being otherwise, then you should've done your research before buying this guitar instead of after. If you bought your guitar because you like strats and want a nice playing and nice sounding instrument without paying a boatload of money, then you should be happy. If you wanted an exact down-to-the-detail replica of the original while thinking that you could somehow do it on the cheap, then you will never be happy with this guitar.
Last edited by al112987 at Jan 20, 2012,
#21
Aye, sorry, I was thinking of the American Vintage 57. I didn't realize the Japanese one was different.
Spin 'round carousel when your horse isn't screwed in.

My band:
Fractured Instinct
(For fans of Death/Groove/Prog Metal)

Ibanez RGA42E
Ibanez S420
LTD H-301
Ibanez RG520
Peavey Predator USA
Douglas Grendel 725
Line 6 Pod HD500X