#1
So, I was bored the other day and I was looking around at obscure woods for a potential custom (I like to be different). I got the body, neck, fretboard and body top all chosen, the hardware picked out, and the electronics figured out. Then I started to think about the nut...

The tried-and-true materials are Bone (or ivory), Tusq and Corian. Now these are nice, but one thing always confused me. Every other contact point is either metal or wood. And then we have Bone, polymers and countertop materials? I started searching for various hard substances that could work for a nut.

I've heard of people making Ebony nuts (and saddles, for acoustics), but the main issue was wear (doesn't affect a fretboard much, but having strings ground against it will wear the wood away quickly). So I searched for a denser, harder wood. And I found it.

Desert Ironwood. Found only in the Sonoran Desert in Arizona, it's so dense it's been used for Ball Bearings. I think the name Ironwood speaks for itself. And Arizona Ironwood LLC sells it in nice 3/4"x3/4"x5" blocks. Might take some patience, but that could make a really slick nut...

Thoughts?
Acoustics:
1994 Seagull SM6
2007 Takamine G5013SVFT

Electrics:
2008 Epiphone Les Paul Standard Plain Top (Cherryburst)
1964 Gibson Melody Maker D (DC)

Amps:
Traynor YGL-1

Pedals
MXR Distortion III (C4 Modded)
#2
LOL best title ever, I salute you
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#3
It is called semen, My friend.
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Joe Satriani + Kirk Hammett = Joe Satriani

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#5
Well, considering it'll dull most woodworking materials faster than a belt sander, I think it can handle a little string friction.
Acoustics:
1994 Seagull SM6
2007 Takamine G5013SVFT

Electrics:
2008 Epiphone Les Paul Standard Plain Top (Cherryburst)
1964 Gibson Melody Maker D (DC)

Amps:
Traynor YGL-1

Pedals
MXR Distortion III (C4 Modded)
#6
And the blank I need is only $2.50+s/h
Acoustics:
1994 Seagull SM6
2007 Takamine G5013SVFT

Electrics:
2008 Epiphone Les Paul Standard Plain Top (Cherryburst)
1964 Gibson Melody Maker D (DC)

Amps:
Traynor YGL-1

Pedals
MXR Distortion III (C4 Modded)
#8
I'll make sure to update you if I works or not.
Acoustics:
1994 Seagull SM6
2007 Takamine G5013SVFT

Electrics:
2008 Epiphone Les Paul Standard Plain Top (Cherryburst)
1964 Gibson Melody Maker D (DC)

Amps:
Traynor YGL-1

Pedals
MXR Distortion III (C4 Modded)
#9
I have used a threaded piece of steal (like a bolt without the head) and it worked really well.....it is probably the most stable nut I have, strings never stick


as you were
#10
My danelectro has an aluminum nut and rosewood bridge. No sustain, but lovely tone and it's pretty stable. Ironwood sounds hilarious though so it'll probably be amazing.
#11
i had a crappy plastic nut on my guitar ... the strings always stuck ... replaced it with a bone nut ... still stuck... rubbed some pencil lead in there ... and presto ... no sticky... and the Grover tuners might have something to do with it too

i'm sure if you kept some lead in the wood and the strings it'd last long enough to entertain you ... if you wear it out i'm sure you'll just go back to bone anyway ... but ... you'll have a cool story to tell ...
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Last edited by Dezerado at Jan 22, 2012,
#12
Brass nuts are the way to go, sustain for days and you never have to worry about busting your nut again.
ESP Eclipse Standard Series W/ PRS Santana II Pickups
PRS SE Soapbar II
Peavey 5150 120w Head
Avatar 412 Traditional Cab(v30's+G12H30's)
Malekko, Rocktron, T-Rex and MXR/Dunlop pedals
#13
maybe u can get the guys over at humschfind to make u a nut from the same material that they make their picks from! xD
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#14
*sorry, off topic.


Originally Posted by christfudge
Joe Satriani + Kirk Hammett = Joe Satriani


I love this! LOL!

-Tony