Page 1 of 2
#1
Will putting higher guage string on my guitar make the tension to tight and mess up the neck of my guitar i want to get 11s and i have 9s now? And will higher guage decrese the fret buzz? i have a bc rich warlock kerry king wartribe. ohh and i mostly play in drop tunings
Last edited by Iplayaguitar15 at Feb 4, 2012,
#2
well.... yea.. perhaps not mess up you neck but will increase the tension IMO
#1 2001 MII Jackson DK-2
#2 1995 MIK modded Fender squire
#3 2001 MIK Squier Stagemaster Deluxe
#4 2007 MIJ DKMG/DXMG Jackson
#5 1985 MIA Gibson SG Special
#6 1999 MIK ESP LTD M107
#3
Quote by Mufassa
well.... yea.. perhaps not mess up you neck but will increase the tension IMO

Thats what i was thinking
#4
9's to 11's? Yeah you will have to fiddle with your truss rod a bit.
Quote by JD Close
Piano dick had some good parts, but should have said "As the business man slowly gets boned", would have accented the whole dick feeling of the album
#5
I strongly suggest taking it to a music shop that does set ups, tell them what you want. Don't just change over to 11's, it can do bad things to the neck and intonation.

There are also some great videos on youtube that guide you through the steps of changing to a heavier gauge string.

Also changing the tuning of the guitar can warp the neck, if you don't have it set up properly.
#6
Quote by Most_Triumphant
9's to 11's? Yeah you will have to fiddle with your truss rod a bit.

What if i go from 9 to 10 for a few months then to 11?
#7
Quote by almudjk
I strongly suggest taking it to a music shop that does set ups, tell them what you want. Don't just change over to 11's, it can do bad things to the neck and intonation.

There are also some great videos on youtube that guide you through the steps of changing to a heavier gauge string.

Also changing the tuning of the guitar can warp the neck, if you don't have it set up properly.

How much would it cost to get a setup? and dont have alot of money and i dont want to mess up my brand new guitar by messing with stuff
#8
Quote by Iplayaguitar15
What if i go from 9 to 10 for a few months then to 11?

It doesn't work that way bud.
Quote by JD Close
Piano dick had some good parts, but should have said "As the business man slowly gets boned", would have accented the whole dick feeling of the album
#9
Quote by Most_Triumphant
It doesn't work that way bud.

Ohh lol then i guess im gunna have to get a setup.
#10
like everyone else said, it should be set up if you want to go to 11's. setup prices vary from place to place, guitar center charges 50$ from what i remember, local music stores are cheaper in my experience. ive seen 20-30$ around me at smaller shops.
#11
You are still putting more tension on the neck, which may necessitate a truss rod tweak. How long you wait doesn't matter. It won't magically adjust itself if you step up gauge by gauge. That being said, a truss rod adjustment is nothing major. You just need to tighten it about an 1/8 turn and let it set a few hours to see if it straightens out to where you want it. If not, turn it another 1/8 and wait again. There isn't much to it and so long as you don't try to turn the hell out of it you won't hurt the neck. If you are uncomfortable with doing it take it to a tech instead.

Your real problem is going to be the tremolo. You'll have to do some pretty major adjustments to your spring tension and possibly tweak your intonation when switching string gauges on that sorts of tremolo. It looks like a Floyd style trem which is probably full floating. You'd really probably be better off going to a tech unless you want to take the time you learn how to do these things properly yourself.
#13
Quote by Iplayaguitar15
Can anyway link me to a good guitar setup video?


What type of guitar do you have?
#15
will need a setup, no reason you can't learn to do it yourself. there are only hundreds of videos on youtube, etc. its not rocket science.

why do you want to change to .11's?

do you understand that strings are going to be harder to bend, fret to a certain point, and you may play a little slower as far as leads go until you get used to them. you will be used to them in a day or so.

as far as messing up your neck, its only going to happen if you don't set it up, even then it probably wouldn't damage anything. dont go thicker than .12's+ unless you want to tune down stupidly far.
WTLT 2014 GG&A

Quote by andersondb7
alright "king of the guitar forum"


Quote by trashedlostfdup
nope i am "GOD of the guitar forum" i think that fits me better.


Quote by andersondb7
youre just being a jerk man.



****** NEW NEW NEW!
2017-07-07 2017-07-07 Update and a Chat On Noise Constraints *** NEW FRIDAY 7/7
2017-04-13 RUN AWAY from COMPUTERS!!! TCE? RANT ALERT!!!
2017-03-02 - Guitar Philosophy 1001- Be Prepared For the Situation (Thursday 2017-03-02)
2017-02-21 How to Hot-Rod the Hell of your Stratocaster for $50! (Tuesday 2017-2-21)
Resentments and Rambling from a Guitar Junkie
---> http://trashedengineering.blogspot.com/
#16
Do NOT adjust your truss rod. People here seem to think that is the end all, be all adjustment for everything. Only do that IF it is necessary after switching over to a new gauge of strings. You may need to recut the slots in your nut for the larger strings. Keep in mind this will effect your setup if you go back to a smaller gauge string.
#18
Quote by trashedlostfdup
will need a setup, no reason you can't learn to do it yourself. there are only hundreds of videos on youtube, etc. its not rocket science.

why do you want to change to .11's?

do you understand that strings are going to be harder to bend, fret to a certain point, and you may play a little slower as far as leads go until you get used to them. you will be used to them in a day or so.

as far as messing up your neck, its only going to happen if you don't set it up, even then it probably wouldn't damage anything. dont go thicker than .12's+ unless you want to tune down stupidly far.

I want 11s because i love the heavyness of the sound and i was told they were good for down tuning . but for now i might just get 10s
#19
Well, if the guitar does have a floating bridge (which is something you haven't specified), going to 10s will still require a setup. Of the bridge at least, but possibly the neck as well (emphasis on 'possibly').

How about you link us to your guitar?
#21
Alright, well you shouldn't have to worry about the bridge then, as it's a hardtail.

You can try on the 10's and see how it plays. If you feel something's not right, some work might have to be done, and depending on what that is, you could do it yourself or take it to the shop for a full setup.

Good luck!
#22
Quote by Y00p
Alright, well you shouldn't have to worry about the bridge then, as it's a hardtail.

You can try on the 10's and see how it plays. If you feel something's not right, some work might have to be done, and depending on what that is, you could do it yourself or take it to the shop for a full setup.

Good luck!

i wont know if somethings wrong im kind of a beginner. and thanks so much for the help!
#23
Change the strings.. Unless you're going from 8's to flatwound 14's, I wouldn't worry so much.. you're certainly not going to damage your guitar by going from 9's to 11's

I've gone from 9's to 11's without a set up change at all...
Checking intonation should be done EVERYTIME the strings are changed anyway.

Setting up a guitar (with the exception of fretwork) is easy and safe and doesn't require any special tools. A small screwdriver, the right sized allen wrenches, a straight edge, or Capo and a feeler gauge (or an .8mm or 1.0mm guitar pick can do the trick)

NOW, like has been said, don't start twisting on the truss rod nut... adjustments to the Truss need to be slight and only when needed...

YouTube has lots of demo video's on how to set up your guitar, but you have to weed through the crap... If it's a 12 year old telling you to adjust the screw to stop the strings from hitting the metal thingies.... Find another video...
I Play Guitar
Some Like it
Some don't
I don't care
Beats Workin'
OLD GUYS RULE!!!!
#24
Quote by Papabear505
Change the strings.. Unless you're going from 8's to flatwound 14's, I wouldn't worry so much.. you're certainly not going to damage your guitar by going from 9's to 11's

I've gone from 9's to 11's without a set up change at all...
Checking intonation should be done EVERYTIME the strings are changed anyway.

Setting up a guitar (with the exception of fretwork) is easy and safe and doesn't require any special tools. A small screwdriver, the right sized allen wrenches, a straight edge, or Capo and a feeler gauge (or an .8mm or 1.0mm guitar pick can do the trick)

NOW, like has been said, don't start twisting on the truss rod nut... adjustments to the Truss need to be slight and only when needed...

YouTube has lots of demo video's on how to set up your guitar, but you have to weed through the crap... If it's a 12 year old telling you to adjust the screw to stop the strings from hitting the metal thingies.... Find another video...

Alright thanks so much. so now ill just set it up and put the strings on. Is that all that i have to do?
#25
NO.....

Put the strings on, then set it up.


Are you sure you want heavier gauge strings?
What tuning are you planning on playing in?
My Soundcloud dudes
Recording gear:
Yahama Hs8
Saffire Pro 40
Shure Sm57
Shure Sm7b

Guitar gear :
Ebmm BFR7
Axe fx XL+
Walrus audio Janus
Ibanez Ergodyne
Black Market Custom cab
#26
Quote by Kyleisthename
NO.....

Put the strings on, then set it up.


Are you sure you want heavier gauge strings?
What tuning are you planning on playing in?


Mostly Drop D, Drop C and sometimes Drop A

But i will also play some standard tuning. should i just get 10s?
#27
Umm, 11's would be fine for drop D and drop C. But definitely not drop A.
My Soundcloud dudes
Recording gear:
Yahama Hs8
Saffire Pro 40
Shure Sm57
Shure Sm7b

Guitar gear :
Ebmm BFR7
Axe fx XL+
Walrus audio Janus
Ibanez Ergodyne
Black Market Custom cab
#28
Quote by thehikingdude
Do NOT adjust your truss rod. People here seem to think that is the end all, be all adjustment for everything. Only do that IF it is necessary after switching over to a new gauge of strings. You may need to recut the slots in your nut for the larger strings. Keep in mind this will effect your setup if you go back to a smaller gauge string.
Going from 9s to 11s? Yeah you're probably going to need a truss rod adjustment. Of course, unless you are ok with the tension warping your neck over time...
#29
I play .11's on e standard. It wouldn't mess up your neck though. You just gotta adjust the truss rod a little bit. I wouldn't recommend going from 9's from 11's though just because I don't thing your fingers will do well from that jump.
If Rock is a life-style, then Metal's an addiction

Yelloooow!


Of The


UG Challenge

#30
Quote by thehikingdude
Do NOT adjust your truss rod. People here seem to think that is the end all, be all adjustment for everything. Only do that IF it is necessary after switching over to a new gauge of strings. You may need to recut the slots in your nut for the larger strings. Keep in mind this will effect your setup if you go back to a smaller gauge string.


He will most certainly not have to recut the slots and he will definitively have to adjust the truss rod. The stronger pull of thicker strings bends the neck so he has to compensate with truss rod. Its pretty easy to learn.
Setting up the tremolo isn´t a major deal either, just tighten the screws in alternation to retuning until the bridge stands paralel to the body again. That needs to be done before and after the truss rod adjustment.

Changing to higher gauge string when playing in dropped tunings is a good idea.
#31
I'm using a thicker pick now. Should I adjust my truss rod for that as well. Seriously though, you guys are truss rod happy. What kind of guitars are you playing? Are they made of cardboard?

Have you seen the nut? How could you possibly know that?
Last edited by thehikingdude at Feb 5, 2012,
#33
Quote by thehikingdude
I'm using a thicker pick now. Should I adjust my truss rod for that as well. Seriously though, you guys are truss rod happy. What kind of guitars are you playing? Are they made of cardboard?

Have you seen the nut? How could you possibly know that?

You need to offset the increase in tension. A jump from 9s to 11s is almost certainly going to add some bow to the neck. If you want to argue that, then be my guest, but it is a significant increase in tension. Of course, ideally you would measure the relief before and after the string change to determine whether it actually needs to be adjusted, but it probably will be and people are just pointing that out to the threadstarter. That's WHY truss rods are installed in guitars, for this very purpose. There is generally a recommended amount of relief for a neck.
Last edited by al112987 at Feb 5, 2012,
#34
Quote by al112987
You need to offset the increase in tension. A jump from 9s to 11s is almost certainly going to add some bow to the neck. If you want to argue that, then be my guest, but it is a significant increase in tension. Of course, ideally you would measure the relief before and after the string change to determine whether it actually needs to be adjusted, but it probably will be and people are just pointing that out to the threadstarter. That's WHY truss rods are installed in guitars, for this very purpose. There is generally a recommended amount of relief for a neck.


A jump from 9s to 11s will only increase the tension on the neck if they're both in the same tuning.

For example.

A guitar in E standard with 9s is pretty soft on the neck. Same guitar with 11s on the neck in E standard, is pretty brutal.

Now take that guitar, and tune it down a step and a half, put .11s on it, and you don't need to adjust anything.

At all.

So if TS is going from 9s in E, to 11s in C, he's fine. Doesn't need to touch anything.


EDIT

TS, answer these questions in list form.

1. What tuning are you in now
2. With what gauge.
3. What tuning do you want to go to
4. What gauge do you want to put on

Answer those, and I can help you out. The only difference that having a certain guitar would make is if you had a trem, most hardtails are universally easy to setup, unless you're doing something rather involving.

My things:
Bowes SLx7
Washburn WG587
Washburn X40Pro
Washburn X50
Washburn HM24
Washburn WR150
Laguna LE200s
Arietta Acoustic
First Act
Valveking 112
VHT Deliverance

Last edited by valennic at Feb 5, 2012,
#35
The point I've been trying to make is that a truss rod adjustment MIGHT be necessary. To tell someone that isn't even knowledgeable about doing a simple setup to start changing the relief of their neck without seeing the guitar isn't the advice I'd expect.
#36
Quote by thehikingdude
The point I've been trying to make is that a truss rod adjustment MIGHT be necessary. To tell someone that isn't even knowledgeable about doing a simple setup to start changing the relief of their neck without seeing the guitar isn't the advice I'd expect.


Well yeah, but like I said above, it depends completely on the tuning and the gauges he's changing to-from. People here assume higher gauge automatically means higher tension regardless of what you're doing, but the tension of a set of .9s in E and a set of .11s in C are in the same area. If you're making that jump, you don't need to adjust anything.

My things:
Bowes SLx7
Washburn WG587
Washburn X40Pro
Washburn X50
Washburn HM24
Washburn WR150
Laguna LE200s
Arietta Acoustic
First Act
Valveking 112
VHT Deliverance

#37
Quote by valennic
Well yeah, but like I said above, it depends completely on the tuning and the gauges he's changing to-from. People here assume higher gauge automatically means higher tension regardless of what you're doing, but the tension of a set of .9s in E and a set of .11s in C are in the same area. If you're making that jump, you don't need to adjust anything.

Exactly! :-)
#38
Quote by Iplayaguitar15
Mostly Drop D, Drop C and sometimes Drop A

But i will also play some standard tuning. should i just get 10s?


you would essentially set up the guitar every time you went from drop a to drop d and vice versa.

.09's to .11 if in the same tuning will need a full setup as well, and truss rod would need to be adjusted if kept in same tuning.

going back and forth of all of those tuning makes no sense to me.

if its important enough, i found some freeware that lets you lower/raise pitch by half steps. it worked really well if you want to be playing cover songs, but i don't remember the name, and i dont even know if it is still free. useless without link, but you can search if you like. not everything is perfect but it covers the bases.

honestly by reading your posts i don't think you know enough about some aspects of the guitar. learn them. most people who switch from .09"s to .11's" would hate it for a few days. using thicker strings doesn't do much unless you droptune, or feel more control with more resistance of bends and the related.
WTLT 2014 GG&A

Quote by andersondb7
alright "king of the guitar forum"


Quote by trashedlostfdup
nope i am "GOD of the guitar forum" i think that fits me better.


Quote by andersondb7
youre just being a jerk man.



****** NEW NEW NEW!
2017-07-07 2017-07-07 Update and a Chat On Noise Constraints *** NEW FRIDAY 7/7
2017-04-13 RUN AWAY from COMPUTERS!!! TCE? RANT ALERT!!!
2017-03-02 - Guitar Philosophy 1001- Be Prepared For the Situation (Thursday 2017-03-02)
2017-02-21 How to Hot-Rod the Hell of your Stratocaster for $50! (Tuesday 2017-2-21)
Resentments and Rambling from a Guitar Junkie
---> http://trashedengineering.blogspot.com/
#39
Quote by thehikingdude
The point I've been trying to make is that a truss rod adjustment MIGHT be necessary. To tell someone that isn't even knowledgeable about doing a simple setup to start changing the relief of their neck without seeing the guitar isn't the advice I'd expect.

There is a stigma that adjusting the truss rod is rocket science. But really, in this day and age there's more then enough guides on how to do it. If you do it in small incriments and observe how the neck behaves, you can't go wrong. Sure, you might misadjust the relief at the begining, but, it's a learning process. Sooner or later you'll manage to get it and it'll become routine.

That being said, if OP wants to put thicker gauge strings in order to play in lower tunings, the truss rod might still need adjustment. Using 11s for drop A would probably end up with way lower string tension, and if truss rod has been tightened in any way, there might be some back-bow (check http://www.igdb.co.uk/pages/guitar_setup/truss_rod.htm for reference). Guitar neck can behave in various ways after a string change, so keep an eye on that.

I'd suggest decide which tuning you use the most and use it without constant changing. The lower you go, the thicker strings you might want to use (unless you don't mind loose strings). Check out this article about scale length (http://novaxguitars.com/info/technical.html) - in your case part "Tension, Gauge & Length" would clear few things out.

All in all, i'd suggest catch up on guitar set up and find all the answers for your questions. Get a general idea what takes to set up a guitar, how everything works and test it only when you are sure what is it all about.

If that didn't clear anything out, sorry, i'm half asleep atm.
Good luck!
#40
Quote by valennic
A jump from 9s to 11s will only increase the tension on the neck if they're both in the same tuning.

For example.

A guitar in E standard with 9s is pretty soft on the neck. Same guitar with 11s on the neck in E standard, is pretty brutal.

Now take that guitar, and tune it down a step and a half, put .11s on it, and you don't need to adjust anything.

At all.

So if TS is going from 9s in E, to 11s in C, he's fine. Doesn't need to touch anything

You mean, apart from the intonation and the nut-slots, right?
Page 1 of 2