#1
I have a floyd rose that got pretty rusty. I have heard you should use a citrus based cleaner and a very fine scotchbrite pad. What exact products have you folks used?

I also have the problem that the threads on the whammy bar connector are rusty too, as well as the inside of the action adjust screw hex slot! Where can I get some really fine and small brushes to clean these parts?

Thanks!
#2
Quote by kerryhall
I have a floyd rose that got pretty rusty. I have heard you should use a citrus based cleaner and a very fine scotchbrite pad. What exact products have you folks used?

I also have the problem that the threads on the whammy bar connector are rusty too, as well as the inside of the action adjust screw hex slot! Where can I get some really fine and small brushes to clean these parts?

Thanks!


citrus cleaner is potentially good idea. although mild acid in reality is what it is.

this is what i do. no guarentee its proper, and also keep in mind we could easily being working with different metals, steel, alumunum, and a multitude of alloys that are pot metal, that each could act different.

if i have something rusty i use steel wool for sure #0000 most of the time, but if thats not going anywhere go back to #000 and back up to #0000. depending what it is, i will use anything from acetone to laquer thinner to strong acids clean it up. it won't necessarily remove rust, but it gives it a good clean. some chemicals may and will remove paint, so try in a non visible area.

as far as the threads in the tremolo bar, use the proper sized tap and die to clean out threads.

as far as making it not rust again, you have to put some form of finish on it, or get it re-plated or powdercoated. i would have no idea.

disclaimer: this is what i do, there are tons of scenarios. don't be a dumbass, use chemicals in vented area, eye protectors, gloves, etc.

as far as the eye protectors seeming overly anal, get some paint stripper in your eye once. i guarantee you will wear safety glasses the rest of my life. painful as hell ER visit, etc. vision wasn't normal for days and apparently i am lucky to still have it functioning.
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#3
I'm pretty sure that Lacquer Thinner and Acetone are both water based solvents, and wouldn't really matter which you use.


Try Methyl Ethyl Keytone, it doesn't evaporate as fast as Acetone, more time to work with it then. (if you are going to try and use solvents. which I personally don't recommend around paint.)
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#4
Quote by Bostonrocks
I'm pretty sure that Lacquer Thinner and Acetone are both water based solvents, and wouldn't really matter which you use.


Try Methyl Ethyl Keytone, it doesn't evaporate as fast as Acetone, more time to work with it then. (if you are going to try and use solvents. which I personally don't recommend around paint.)


+1 both are water based, they do work a little different though. sometimes one will work better than the other on a use by use basis. if i am going to get one, i grab both, may save some time.

could you post a pic?
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Quote by andersondb7
alright "king of the guitar forum"


Quote by trashedlostfdup
nope i am "GOD of the guitar forum" i think that fits me better.


Quote by andersondb7
youre just being a jerk man.



****** NEW NEW NEW!
2017-07-07 2017-07-07 Update and a Chat On Noise Constraints *** NEW FRIDAY 7/7
2017-04-13 RUN AWAY from COMPUTERS!!! TCE? RANT ALERT!!!
2017-03-02 - Guitar Philosophy 1001- Be Prepared For the Situation (Thursday 2017-03-02)
2017-02-21 How to Hot-Rod the Hell of your Stratocaster for $50! (Tuesday 2017-2-21)
Resentments and Rambling from a Guitar Junkie
---> http://trashedengineering.blogspot.com/
#5
Just make sure you don't drip any solvents on your guitar. And definitely wear a respirator and gloves if you use that stuff... especially MEK. That shit is BAD for you. Dip a rubber glove in it for a few minutes, then come back like 15-20 minutes later. The rubber will be all deformed and swollen. MEK is so bad for you that it's been basically outlawed in a lot of industries except situations where no other solvent will work. Seriously... protect yourself.

As far as protecting it after you clean the rust off... there are options, but it depends on how much money you're willing to spend on it, or if you have access to equipment. You could sand blast the existing finish off and alodine it... that's a conversion coat for metals similar to anodizing. But that would be a LOT of work. Honestly, to do it properly may end up costing more than a new bridge.
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#7
I like to use automotive cleaner, shit they use for brake pads and various rusted parts. I probably shouldnt, but it takes the rust off so well. Pretty much instantly. and it hasnt destroyed my finish yet so.....
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#8
Quote by dementiacaptain
I like to use automotive cleaner, shit they use for brake pads and various rusted parts. I probably shouldnt, but it takes the rust off so well. Pretty much instantly. and it hasnt destroyed my finish yet so.....



That is basically denatured alcohol and probably works really well.
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Brett has been saving for a splawn for 4 years
countries have been toppled in the time it's taking, revolutions won got a black pres

yawn


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When he finally gets one it'll probably be televised like the Berlin Wall coming down.
The end of an era
#9
Thanks folks! Schecter recommended I don't use steel wool. My Floyd is chromed. Not sure how to get it re chromed or whatever, but seems like it could cost more than a new floyd.

Haha, yes I will post a pic. I was touring through the south, I tried to keep my guitar clean, but it can be tough sometimes, especially playing basement shows in 105 degree weather with god knows how high humidity.