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#1
Hi forum..

I'm looking for an acoustic guitar, no cut-away, no electronics.

$200 would be my top.

The site I can buy/try from

100 U.S. dollars = 147.219899 Bulgarian levs
This is their money in $.

I can try almost all of the guitars listed on this site. They don't have them all in stock.

I'm going to use it for sudden progression ideas, learning new heard songs and practicing while I'm not home(studying in another town than hometown). I'm not going to record with it, or play live (mic-d), that means if I have to choose between $200 guitars, I don't need the best sounding one, but the one with the best fret-board and comfort.

Yamaha JR2

Fender CD-60

Hohner CD-65

Takamine G321

I have only tried the Fender from these (with 10-46 strings) and I find it little raw(hard to press barre chords), don't know how it will be with thinner strings.. That's a big NO for me because I feel pain in my left hand when playing barre chords on acoustics.

Thanks!
#2
dude, you've got to look at the Yamaha F310. its a superb guitar in its priceclass. I've got it myself for half a year now and I still play with the included strings and they are still great.
#4
pretty sure the yamaha is not a full sized guitar; it's a mini dread.
Quote by Skeet UK
I just looked in my Oxford English Dictionary and under "Acoustic Guitar", there was your Avatar and an email address!
#6
BrainCrasher - have you tried the yamaha F-310?
http://www.musicworld.bg/en/c_385/i_9413/YAMAHA_GUITARS_F_310.html

the op is not in the u.s., so it is over his limit

Quote by b_80_h
Yamaha FGS700.

It should run around $200, and it's a fantastic guitar.
Quote by Skeet UK
I just looked in my Oxford English Dictionary and under "Acoustic Guitar", there was your Avatar and an email address!
#7
Quote by patticake
BrainCrasher - have you tried the yamaha F-310?
http://www.musicworld.bg/en/c_385/i_9413/YAMAHA_GUITARS_F_310.html

No I haven't. I'll give it a try on monday thanks!


No good fender at this price range?

My girlfriend has a Yamaha semi acoustic.. I don't really remember the model, it's around $270 and I find it a little quiet (unplugged). Is that a common thing for Yamaha?


Quote by b_80_h

It should run around $200, and it's a fantastic guitar.


I may consider about the other one if it's not over $250.
#8
actually most yamahas i've played are louder than most fenders, and better quality, too. and i've played a lot of both. is it possible that your girlfriend has a thin body guitar, or could you be comparing an all laminate yamaha to a solid top fender?
Quote by Skeet UK
I just looked in my Oxford English Dictionary and under "Acoustic Guitar", there was your Avatar and an email address!
#9
Quote by BrainCrasher


I have only tried the Fender from these (with 10-46 strings) and I find it little raw(hard to press barre chords), don't know how it will be with thinner strings.. That's a big NO for me because I feel pain in my left hand when playing barre chords on acoustics.

Thanks!
Just a quick question. Where are you planning to find acoustic guitar strings thinner than these Fenders?
#10
good question - those are the thinnest strings they make for acoustics as far as i know.

might do better to get a setup - for decades i had trouble pressing down my strings, and it turned out all the guitars i played weren't set up so the strings were close enough to the neck. now all my guitars are set up fine, and playing is so much easier!

Quote by Captaincranky
Just a quick question. Where are you planning to find acoustic guitar strings thinner than these Fenders?
Quote by Skeet UK
I just looked in my Oxford English Dictionary and under "Acoustic Guitar", there was your Avatar and an email address!
#11
Look used. You might find a good deal on a guitar normally above your price range.
“It’s been very important throughout my career that I’ve met all the guys I’ve copied, because at each stage they’ve said, "Don’t play like me, play like you.”
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#12
Quote by patticake
good question - those are the thinnest strings they make for acoustics as far as i know.

might do better to get a setup - for decades i had trouble pressing down my strings, and it turned out all the guitars i played weren't set up so the strings were close enough to the neck. now all my guitars are set up fine, and playing is so much easier!


Well.. I though there are 10-42 for acoustic nevertheless, I've put electric strings on an acoustic guitar JUST to soften things a little..

By setting up an acoustic to get the strings closer to the neck, you are referring to adjusting the truss rod? and/or change the saddle?
#13
Quote by BrainCrasher
Well.. I though there are 10-42 for acoustic nevertheless, I've put electric strings on an acoustic guitar JUST to soften things a little..
You sly dog, always going for the most comfort and the best sound, aren't ya?

Quote by BrainCrasher
By setting up an acoustic to get the strings closer to the neck, you are referring to adjusting the truss rod? and/or change the saddle?
Nah, it's them darn electric guys who bend the neck backwards with the truss rod to lower the actions.

Those of us left here in the, "Acoustic Stone Age", still use sandpaper on the saddles.

Here's how, on page five: http://thbecker.net/guitar_playing/guitars_and_setup/setup_page_01.html

And BTW, with peizo electric pickups, (under saddle transducers), fret buzz DOES come through the amps.
Last edited by Captaincranky at Feb 11, 2012,
#14
Quote by Captaincranky
You sly dog, always going for the most comfort and the best sound, aren't ya?


Well I can't go against the pain in my hand
and while I'm here about my pain.. can you guys link me to some exercises about positioning and minimizing pain in left hand (fret hand) ? I haven't figured out if I have a bad habit or symptoms for carpal tunnel

Quote by Captaincranky


This has been more than helpful! Thank you!

Tomorrow I'm going to try the Yamaha F-310 and for the first time I'm not going to look for the most comfortable fret-board because of this link
#15
I have a Washburn D10SCE (You can get the D10S for about £50 less I think, without the cutaway and electronics). Everyone I know compliments the guitar's quality and sound, and you really can't go wrong for the price. Pretty safe bet imo.

Oh, it has a truss rod, too.
yep
#16
i used electric strings on my ovation. they sounded like crap, but they were comfy. since i discovered getting my guitars set up, i can now keep 10's or 11's on them with the same comfort level.

fenders aren't as good sounding to my ear, but the ones i've tried usually have lower action, which might be a plus for you.
Quote by Skeet UK
I just looked in my Oxford English Dictionary and under "Acoustic Guitar", there was your Avatar and an email address!
#17
Lag guitars may have more outlets in Europe than they do here in the USA. A local music store sells these T66 models for $200 new. I bought one just this past Christmas for my daughter. I had to take it back because she didn't like the black hardware and said she would not play as long as she has my old Guild, which is always needing work. But I liked the Lag OK. I thought it looked, played and sounded very good for the money.

http://usa.lagguitars.com/?page=prod
EBMM JP6, EBMM Bongo Bass 5-string, Heritage H140CM, ESP Tele Copy, ESP P-Bass Copy, ESP Maverick, Fender HM Strat, Ibanez ST-55, Epiphone Broadway, Taylor 310, Seagull S-12, Musicman Sixty-Five Reverb, Fender HRD, Ampeg B-25B
#18
Quote by BrainCrasher
Well I can't go against the pain in my hand
and while I'm here about my pain.. can you guys link me to some exercises about positioning and minimizing pain in left hand (fret hand) ? I haven't figured out if I have a bad habit or symptoms for carpal tunnel.

Speaking for only myself, I tend not to take pain complaints very seriously in the acoustic forum. More often than not, they're crank complaints, from noobs, (basically, "my fingeys hurt"), because they're simply not used to the force required to play the acoustic, as opposed to to some shit ass ".08 to .038" electric string set that can be bent about a half an octave.

If your case is different, (for your sake I hope it ISN'T), then you need to take stock in how you use your hands in the rest of your life. Do you type a lot? Are you a cashier in a super market"? Because those endeavors, as well as many others, have a strong potential for repetitive stress / carpal tunnel syndrome injuries. I f you sit around the house and play guitar 8 hours a day, that could do it also.

As far as mechanics go, the best technique isn't the one that requires the least strength. The most common mistake, is not dropping your wrist far enough below the neck to be able to have the fingers perpendicular to the fret board. This is so as to avoid muting adjacent strings, because your fingers are laying flat across the fret board causing mutes. It actually requires a bit more squeezing strength to do it correctly

That said, I'm neither a doctor, or a professional guitar instructor. So, if you buy a guitar and your pain continues, in spite of improved conditioning, and a correctly set up guitar, I suggest you consult both of those professionals, to help you sort out the actual cause of your pain.
Quote by patticake
fenders aren't as good sounding to my ear, but the ones i've tried usually have lower action, which might be a plus for you.
The Fender I just bought, ("Sonoran") was set up almost perfectly out of the box. It's possible that someone with a lighter touch could drop the by action a few thousandths, but not much.

What's also good about their playability, is the neck shape. Fender calls it a "soft C", and it's comfy. They're made out of maple, which is hard as nails, so they can slim the necks down a bit.

However, they ship with 80/20 acoustic light strings, which would probably give you at least as big of headache, as the one I'm certain they gave me.

The strings are dead now, but it sounds about right to me, and I fear changing them, because that would start the cycle all over again. Next time it's getting PBs, not the brass BS.
Last edited by Captaincranky at Feb 12, 2012,
#19
Quote by Captaincranky
Speaking for only myself, I tend not to take pain complaints very seriously in the acoustic forum. More often than not, they're crank complaints, from noobs, (basically, "my fingeys hurt"), because they're simply not used to the force required to play the acoustic, as opposed to to some shit ass ".08 to .038" electric string set that can be bent about a half an octave.

If your case is different, (for your sake I hope it ISN'T), then you need to take stock in how you use your hands in the rest of your life. Do you type a lot? Are you a cashier in a super market"? Because those endeavors, as well as many others, have a strong potential for repetitive stress / carpal tunnel syndrome injuries. I f you sit around the house and play guitar 8 hours a day, that could do it also.

As far as mechanics go, the best technique isn't the one that requires the least strength. The most common mistake, is not dropping your wrist far enough below the neck to be able to have the fingers perpendicular to the fret board. This is so as to avoid muting adjacent strings, because your fingers are laying flat across the fret board causing mutes. It actually requires a bit more squeezing strength to do it correctly

That said, I'm neither a doctor, or a professional guitar instructor. So, if you buy a guitar and your pain continues, in spite of improved conditioning, and a correctly set up guitar, I suggest you consult both of those professionals, to help you sort out the actual cause of your pain.The Fender I just bought, ("Sonoran") was set up almost perfectly out of the box. It's possible that someone with a lighter touch could drop the by action a few thousandths, but not much.


Well, I happen to be a computer engineer, and i spend LOTS of hours typing...
First time i felt pain was about a year ago. I was trying the "classical" left hand position.. Learning scales, sweep picking, trying to control my pinky and such.. After that whenever I play barre chords for more than 5mins i felt pain in my thumb and whrist if I combine my playing with barre chords and "bluesy?" picking.. Without using my first finger for barre chords, but using my thumb for the bass note, i can prolong my playing.
I've felt noob-ish pain in my fingers but thats only because sometimes, i'm too busy with my studyies and i don't play guitar for days. But thats not what i meant, i feel pain when i play barre chords regardless how often i play the guitar, so thats why i'm looking for comfty fret-board.
I know i have to pay attention to the way i rest my whrist while playing, and i think i do... But i can be wrong too.. I can upload some images if someone is kind enough to make a comparison to my way of holding the neck and yours.
where should i ask about my pain?

Quote by Captaincranky

What's also good about their playability, is the neck shape. Fender calls it a "soft C", and it's comfy. They're made out of maple, which is hard as nails, so they can slim the necks down a bit.

However, they ship with 80/20 acoustic light strings, which would probably give you at least as big of headache, as the one I'm certain they gave me.

The strings are dead now, but it sounds about right to me, and I fear changing them, because that would start the cycle all over again. Next time it's getting PBs, not the brass BS.


I'll have that in mind. I'm going to try every guitar in the shop tomorrow
Thanks a lot captaincranky
#20
Quote by Mars Rover
Lag guitars may have more outlets in Europe than they do here in the USA. A local music store sells these T66 models for $200 new. I bought one just this past Christmas for my daughter. I had to take it back because she didn't like the black hardware and said she would not play as long as she has my old Guild, which is always needing work. But I liked the Lag OK. I thought it looked, played and sounded very good for the money.

http://usa.lagguitars.com/?page=prod


I couldn't find a place that sells those guitars around here.. I'll ask if they have a dealership or something. Thanks for the suggestion.
#21
try takamine out.. they make suberb guitars... they have a nice warm sound to them
Quote by element4433
One time I watched a dog lick his own dick for twenty minutes.

Quote by Roc8995
No.


Well, technically it could be done, but only in the same way that you could change a cat into a hamburger. It's an unpleasant process, and nobody is happy with the result.
#22
If you're already going to the shop and plan on trying a lot of guitars, I suggest you add the Walden D550 to your list; it's a Chinese guitar (but not as in sweatshop knock-off Chinese guitar); it has a solid spruce top and is cheaper than most models you linked. I have a classical guitar made by them and so far it's made me really happy.
#23
Quote by Lord Kamina
If you're already going to the shop and plan on trying a lot of guitars, I suggest you add the Walden D550 to your list; it's a Chinese guitar (but not as in sweatshop knock-off Chinese guitar); it has a solid spruce top and is cheaper than most models you linked. I have a classical guitar made by them and so far it's made me really happy.


Checked! I'll give it a try! Thank you.

Quote by rocknroll93

try takamine out.. they make suberb guitars... they have a nice warm sound to them



I will of course. A friend of mine is coming with me, who is undecided about electro/acoustic guitar and willing to spend a bit more money than myself, so it would be a long day smelling wood
#24
I must say I'm disappointed from the stock guitars the shop had...

They didn't have any Yamaha.
I've tried few Takamine and Fender guitars.

I really liked the Takamine G320!
I've played again the Fender CD-60, the Takamine owns it!
I've also played a Fender CD-140SCE (over my budget) and I did like it, but the Takamine had a better sound to my ears, also lot cheaper.

I didn't find any Walden guitars (but they can get you one if you are seriously into buying it).

I would like some comments about the G320.. and should I get it?

Also if anyone is willing to help me, and have tried a Walden D550 I'd like a comparision with the Takamine G320. If you say it plays better, better fret-board or anything better than the G320, I will consider into buying the Walden without trying it..

Thanks!!
#25
I personally cannot help you there but this might:

Here's a review of the Takamine: http://www.ultimate-guitar.com/reviews/acoustic_guitars/takamine/g320/index.html

And I couldn't find a review for the D550 on this site, but there is one for the D552 (which is essentially the 12-string version of the D550)

http://www.ultimate-guitar.com/reviews/acoustic_guitars/walden/d552/index.html

From what I know and have seen/listened to... Takamine makes superb guitars in all price ranges; they're more expensive than some other brands, though.

The G320 appears to be a really good guitar but it has a laminate top; the Walden has a solid top... it's entirely possible that the Takamine will sound better even with a laminate top but in the end you should try and check both and make your decision by ear, probably.
#26
Quote by Lord Kamina
I personally cannot help you there but this might:

Here's a review of the Takamine: http://www.ultimate-guitar.com/reviews/acoustic_guitars/takamine/g320/index.html

And I couldn't find a review for the D550 on this site, but there is one for the D552 (which is essentially the 12-string version of the D550)

http://www.ultimate-guitar.com/reviews/acoustic_guitars/walden/d552/index.html

From what I know and have seen/listened to... Takamine makes superb guitars in all price ranges; they're more expensive than some other brands, though.

The G320 appears to be a really good guitar but it has a laminate top; the Walden has a solid top... it's entirely possible that the Takamine will sound better even with a laminate top but in the end you should try and check both and make your decision by ear, probably.


Thanks for the links.

THIS convinced me that my ear is good

This would be it I think no need to look into the Walden, although I would like to have a guitar (baby that would need more care than an electric or laminated acoustic). But still, I need the guitar for my college days where I don't have my home equipment. And thinking about it, it might serve for a lot more than that..

Going to buy it this Friday or next Monday (cash is at home unfortunately )

I'll post pictures

P.S. If anyone have to say a few more lines about the Walden there is still time to look into them.

Thank you to all of you.

I think I'll be opening a thread about my hand pain around here too...
#29
Quote by BrainCrasher
I saw them... damn.. what kind of hard case will I need for this?
If you're going to college, heavy duty, well padded, and most of all, beer repellent.......
#30
Quote by Captaincranky
If you're going to college, heavy duty, well padded, and most of all, beer repellent.......


Well; he can always wrap the case in a body-bag or something to keep the beer out, no?
#31
Quote by Captaincranky
If you're going to college, heavy duty, well padded, and most of all, beer repellent.......


LOL, that was a good laugh

I'm in wonders right now. I didn't plan on spending this much.. if I get the Walden, I'll have to get a hard case for it, and something for humidity. That's all great but it will cost me over $300.

On the other hand, the Takamine would be fine with just a nylon case.. but I might regret it in the long run.. Or would I? It's a Takamine!
#32
What's the relative humidity around where you live or the college you'll be at? Maybe you're lucky and won't need a humidifier.
#33
Quote by Lord Kamina
What's the relative humidity around where you live or the college you'll be at? Maybe you're lucky and won't need a humidifier.


We have snow for about 2 weeks now, it's wet and relative humidity is around 73%. Temp can get down to -9 Celsius degree. In summer we have temp of over 36-38 celsius in the shadow
#34
Quote by BrainCrasher
We have snow for about 2 weeks now, it's wet and relative humidity is around 73%. Temp can get down to -9 Celsius degree. In summer we have temp of over 36-38 celsius in the shadow

Quote by Lord Kamina
What's the relative humidity around where you live or the college you'll be at? Maybe you're lucky and won't need a humidifier.

OK, both of you are just being silly here. What earthly difference would the outdoor humidity make in the middle of the winter? We're not thinking about storing the guitar in a snowbank along with the keg, are we?

The question you need to be asking is how is the apartment or dorm where you'll be staying heated
#35
Quote by Captaincranky
OK, both of you are just being silly here. What earthly difference would the outdoor humidity make in the middle of the winter? We're not thinking about storing the guitar in a snowbank along with the keg, are we?

The question you need to be asking is how is the apartment or dorm where you'll be staying heated


Because I figure if he has 80% humidity then the heating is not as terrible as if he's got 50% humidity.

It's not like buildings can completely isolate you from outdoors humidity.
#36
Quote by Lord Kamina
Because I figure if he has 80% humidity then the heating is not as terrible as if he's got 50% humidity.

It's not like buildings can completely isolate you from outdoors humidity.


I will buy a humidity meter first.. to see how my apartment's humidity level is. If it's around 50% I'll buy the guitar only. And I will get a good hard case and a humidifier when I'll have the cash. If the humidity is not between 40-60% I'll get a room humidifier because I don't have enough money for a hard case right now.

By the way, the guitar is ordered and I'm waiting for a call from the shop to pick it up. They said it might take up to 5-8 days to arrive.
I ordered the Walden D550

Thanks to everyone for your help, suggestions and knowledge!
#37
Quote by BrainCrasher
I will buy a humidity meter first.. to see how my apartment's humidity level is. If it's around 50% I'll buy the guitar only. And I will get a good hard case and a humidifier when I'll have the cash. If the humidity is not between 40-60% I'll get a room humidifier because I don't have enough money for a hard case right now.

By the way, the guitar is ordered and I'm waiting for a call from the shop to pick it up. They said it might take up to 5-8 days to arrive.
I ordered the Walden D550

Thanks to everyone for your help, suggestions and knowledge!


That's probably a good call.

You know... I've been meaning to get an hygrometer (have to go downtown to get one though) because I don't have a hard-case for my N550CE (and I keep it on a room that's frequently open to the elements, although THAT can be easily changed)

Nonetheless, it's probable I might have the opposite problem, humidity in winter reaches about 85% in here.
#38
I'd like to say that the arriving of my guitar was postpone... they said I SHOULD get it by tuesday...........

And while I'm waiting, I collected some more money and I'm going to buy a hard case.
I don't know if it's going to fit it, so I'm asking about it. I was considering this hard case.

The total cost with the guitar would be around $230 so I will be getting some sound hole pickup for it too and a simple head-stock tuner
#39
Quote by BrainCrasher
I'd like to say that the arriving of my guitar was postpone... they said I SHOULD get it by tuesday...........

And while I'm waiting, I collected some more money and I'm going to buy a hard case.
I don't know if it's going to fit it, so I'm asking about it. I was considering this hard case.

The total cost with the guitar would be around $230 so I will be getting some sound hole pickup for it too and a simple head-stock tuner


Can't say for sure but for sure but from the description on that link, it should fit just fine!
Also, if you have an iPhone (or iPad or iPod touch), there's some VERY good tuners available in the App Store. I use Cleartune which cost me $3.99 and is utterly great.
#40
Quote by Lord Kamina
Can't say for sure but for sure but from the description on that link, it should fit just fine!
Also, if you have an iPhone (or iPad or iPod touch), there's some VERY good tuners available in the App Store. I use Cleartune which cost me $3.99 and is utterly great.


I'm on Android
But thanks anyway.
I had a tuner on my mobile, but I prefer something touchable and meant only for tuning..

About the hard case, I figured out that a dreadnought body sometimes is called a Western too.. so there goes my logic about the case.
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