#1
I'm considering getting a custom-built guitar if I can afford it (if not, this is going in the long-term wishlist!). I tried to do one through Schecter's website, and it was just too fiddly, but I like the simplicity and ease-of-use of the Jackson guitar creator. But that's not really relevant.

What kinds of body and neck wood are good metal guitar woods? What difference do scalloped frets make, if any? What even are scalloped frets?
#2
Mahogny/Alder neck
Mahogny/Maple neck
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#4
Mahogany body, and whatever neck. but mahogany with humbuckers is what mostly used nowadays, and EMG are very populars.

Scalloped frets is when the wood between the frets is ''digged'' out, and so when you play you dont touch the fretboard. I should give you more control on your string for bends, hammer on and pulloff. Huge-ass frets can do the trick too.
#5
Personally I like Maple on Swamp Ash Body with Rosewood Fingerboard on Maple neck with the classic 85/81 EMG combo, but I don't really play metal anymore, and I wasn't big into playing it originally, so feel free to discount my opinion :p
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#6
alder is nice, i have an Ibanez V with it and it sounds amazing
#7
The wood species doesn't matter. 99% of a guitar's tone is in the electronics. It's just a way of manufacturers charging more for nothing.
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#8
Quote by DuctTapeNinja
The wood species doesn't matter. 99% of a guitar's tone is in the electronics. It's just a way of manufacturers charging more for nothing.



If you find this man's pine build thread, you will know that his opinion has been called terrible by this some of board's best luthiers.

Mahogany or maple depending on how you like your metal.
#9
Quote by Wisthekiller
If you find this man's pine build thread, you will know that his opinion has been called terrible by this some of board's best luthiers.

Mahogany or maple depending on how you like your metal.
Some of this board's 'best' are retarded. But, keep it in the other thread.
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#10
no need to go on personal attacks on the other people, however, ninja what amp do you play through? if its a line6 that might explain why you have that opinion
#11
Quote by Viban
no need to go on personal attacks on the other people, however, ninja what amp do you play through? if its a line6 that might explain why you have that opinion
He attacked me first. Let this be the end of it. And no, I don't play a modeling amp. I'm currently playing through a Bugera V22, which sounds good for some things and not so great for others. I'm hoping to replace it this summer.
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#12
I was actually referring to him, your shot back is justified. and gratz on the bugera and good luck on the upgrade man, I"m looking at a fender frontman 212 2x12 amp I"m 1/3 the way to it. and I"ll leave your opinion up to you . also I find your pine build intriguing and hope to see the results, best of luck. and I will agree that wood makes only minute differences, but I think if you put a set of Seymore DUncans in a squier bullet and a Jackson king V, you'll notice tonal differences, be it sustain or otherwise(bullets are made of something a step down from construction grade plywood)
#13
Quote by Viban
I was actually referring to him, your shot back is justified. and gratz on the bugera and good luck on the upgrade man, I"m looking at a fender frontman 212 2x12 amp I"m 1/3 the way to it. and I"ll leave your opinion up to you . also I find your pine build intriguing and hope to see the results, best of luck. and I will agree that wood makes only minute differences, but I think if you put a set of Seymore DUncans in a squier bullet and a Jackson king V, you'll notice tonal differences, be it sustain or otherwise(bullets are made of something a step down from construction grade plywood)
One of the guitarists in my last band had a Frontman 212, and he had it dialed in pretty damned good. He ran a MiM Strat through an eq pedal and a Tube Screamer into it, and it sounded great.
As for the wood, once you step down to plywood, I'll agree there's a difference, but from what I've seen a well made solid (real wood) guitar will sound the same whether it's maple, mahogany, oak, etc. The biggest difference is the sustain, and even that really isn't that big in my experience if the guitar is well made.
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It's a good thing I like boobs or I'd be more pissed that you just bumped a 2 week old thread for that


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Last edited by DuctTapeNinja at Feb 11, 2012,
#14
Quote by Viban
I was actually referring to him, your shot back is justified. and gratz on the bugera and good luck on the upgrade man, I"m looking at a fender frontman 212 2x12 amp I"m 1/3 the way to it. and I"ll leave your opinion up to you . also I find your pine build intriguing and hope to see the results, best of luck. and I will agree that wood makes only minute differences, but I think if you put a set of Seymore DUncans in a squier bullet and a Jackson king V, you'll notice tonal differences, be it sustain or otherwise(bullets are made of something a step down from construction grade plywood)


I didn't mean it as an attack (sorry, DTN!), but was pointing out that some great luthiers disagree with him about certain things, including how much effect tonewoods have. The wood will have an effect, and a noticeable one.
#15
alot of sustain also depends on your neck joint and bridge style too, plus if you use actives it will also help your sustain right along. wood isn't the only factor in sustain, wood will have an affect aswell though
#17
yes, but an amp can't make a tone that isn't there unless it is playing a recording, so sustain is dependent on your guitar.
#18
Quote by DuctTapeNinja
The wood species doesn't matter. 99% of a guitar's tone is in the electronics. It's just a way of manufacturers charging more for nothing.


Total BS.

Play the minor pentatonic scale on the 12th fret, unplugged, of a full bodied mahogany body guitar (like a Les Paul or Explorer) and then play it on a alder Strat, and tell me you don't hear a huge difference.

Tone wood, body size, and pick up position account for 60% of a guitars tone IMO. The rest is electronics.

As far as metal playing goes, first listen to what the guitar sounds like without an amp. That is the base tone, the pickups from there on can only augment that tone so much in either a brighter or warmer direction. It's all preference.

-Tony
#19
Alder and maple have a bright sound, maple slightly more so. Mahogany is a lot warmer-sounding. If you get active pickups which often sound bright, it's probably a good idea to have mahogany as a body wood to balance the tone out.

Maple and mahogany can both be used as neck woods; alder can't as it isn't strong enough.
#20
I know its very unpopular, but I actually like basswood for it's pronounced mid range. I like the crunch it adds to Palm Mutes as well. I have a 12 lb basswood LP copy and I enjoy playing it, but IMO it takes more work to prevent it from getting lost in the mix.

Mahogany is usually the best choice for the average metal player.

All of the rest of my guitars are mahogany except my Strat. My basswood works as well with American voiced amps as my mahogany bodies, but it's the only one that doesn't work so well with British Voiced amps.
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Last edited by Washburnd Fretz at Feb 12, 2012,
#21
Quote by Sumlover41
Mahogny/Alder neck
Mahogny/Maple neck

No, you don't use alder for a neck.


Anyway, I like mahogany with a maple top for body, maple for the neck, and ebony for the fingerboard.
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