#1
Well my Schecter is looking awfully nasty as are the strings so its time for Rosie's makeover (I refer to my guitar by its name occasionally, don't judge me.)

Thing is I'm not really sure what's good for the body, neck, and bridge in terms of cleaning it. I have a TOM bridge and there's a bit of dust stuck in there, is there any safe way to clean it without damaging the bridge in any way?

I have a rosewood fingerboard and a quilted maple top as well, correct me if I'm wrong but I believe these prevent me from using lemon oil which is commonly used.

and while I'm here I might as well kill two birds with one stone...I put up an ad on CL for my old Mg halfstack and someone offered. Here's the email.

"Hi,
My assistant told me your item is still for sale on list, I will add $40 to the purchase price for you so that you can hold it for me as i am on a business trip and wouldn't want to loss it to someone else. Please provide your full name, Address and your Phone number so that I can send your payment.I will be paying you by a Money Order ... It will take 4 -5 days for the payment to get to you and as for delivery I will make arrangements for the pick-up after you have received payment.kindly get back to me, as soon as possible, with your name,phone # and mailing address where payment will be sent.
Note:As soon as you have your money in hand, we can talk about the picking up of the item. i would like you to take the posting off from craiglist today.
Best Regards"

I've never sold anything on CL before but does this sound legit or no? I've already asked as to how payment will be made, but nothing else so far. Thanks and do apologize for massive walls of text
#2
Ignore that CL bullshit. If the guy's so hot to have an assistant checking CL for him then the assistant could come get the amp.
#3
To clean rosewood fretboards i always use lemon oil.

To clean the body, headstock and hardware, i use a microfiber cloth and a soft, small brush for those hard-to-reach spots.
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#4
One tip: if someone responds to your craigslist ad and doesn't say what it is they are trying to buy from you (ex: "i would like to buy the item you listed") it's no good. If obviously copy text from your headline, usually no good. If they say they are out of town and need your information to send money, usually a scam. I almost always get emails like that when I post on craigslit just use your judgement and never give out personal info like bank account numbers.
#5
Yeah, that ad is total BS. You can trust me on that one.
I'm a musician/composer before I'm a guitar player.

foREVer


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#6
I had a feeling, just wanted to be sure. What really irked me was he didn't even name what the item was, which is a bit of a giveaway, again though I wasn't sure.
#7
that is your classic spam/trying to pull one over on you. I list things on craigslist all the time and get that same exact type of response but a bit different on details. Its a way for them to try to steel your stuff, they usually send a bad cashiers check and yea it might cash at your back but will come back to bite you in the but after the bank realizes its fake then they have your goods cause you already shipped it when you got the check thinking hey cashiers check its gotta be good
#8
Quote by Schnecter
One tip: if someone responds to your craigslist ad and doesn't say what it is they are trying to buy from you (ex: "i would like to buy the item you listed") it's no good. If obviously copy text from your headline, usually no good. If they say they are out of town and need your information to send money, usually a scam. I almost always get emails like that when I post on craigslit just use your judgement and never give out personal info like bank account numbers.

This.

Unless the motherf*cker says "I'm interested in the pedal/guitar/amp you're selling." and asks relevant questions about it, I call BS on them.
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#9
Quote by Malice26


"Hi,
My assistant told me your item is still for sale on list, I will add $40 to the purchase price for you so that you can hold it for me as i am on a business trip and wouldn't want to loss it to someone else. Please provide your full name, Address and your Phone number so that I can send your payment.I will be paying you by a Money Order ... It will take 4 -5 days for the payment to get to you and as for delivery I will make arrangements for the pick-up after you have received payment.kindly get back to me, as soon as possible, with your name,phone # and mailing address where payment will be sent.
Note:As soon as you have your money in hand, we can talk about the picking up of the item. i would like you to take the posting off from craiglist today.
Best Regards"




Its total BS. Its a scam to steal money from you, I get these daily. Just ignore it.
#10
Another sign it's a scam: Offering to pay you extra money via money order. That got pulled on me a few years ago on eBay. Report the person (can you do that on CL?).
I am a fake mountain.
#11
Lemon oil is a conditioner, it's not for cleaning (although most people do clean and conditioner their fretboards at the same time; it makes sense to do them both while the strings are off anyway).

To clean a guitar - any guitar - the only thing you should be using is a dry, clean, microfibre cloth. These can be bought very cheaply from any opticians or photography store; automotive stores also sell them, though theirs tend to be needlessly big and a little overpriced. Do not use any other kind of cloth; microfibre cloths are the best thing to use for cleaning and they're so cheap there is absolutely no reason to use anything less.
Once you take the strings off, keep the guitar flat (tune-o-matic bridges tend to fall off their posts if the strings aren't on), take out a new cloth and wipe the guitar down without using much pressure or force. Use soft, circular motions. Never scrub at anything. For areas like the bridge itself you should just wipe the cloth along the outside. To get rid of any dust or dirt in the smaller cracks, use a soft camera lens brush (sometimes called puffer brushes). A Hama Pneu 55 brush is cheap and will do the job. Do not use a paintbrush, toothbrush or any other similar device; these may leave scratches.
If you find some grime or other mark has stuck on so much that a few passes with the cloth or brush don't shift it, just keep going over it. Again, do not scrub at it. Do not use any chemicals or liquids.

Once you've got the dust and other marks shifted, there's a few polishing products you can use. Personally, I like the Dunlop polishing products for poly-finished guitars and Gibson's products for guitars with nitro finishes. Both companies print clear instructions on their bottles. It's worth mentioning though that you should keep all finish/hardware/string polishes away from exposed wood (i.e. the fretboard) and you should keep all fretboard conditioners away from the rest of the fretboard. Nothing should ever go near the nut.
When conditioning your fretboard, remember that you can always add more later but you can't really take any chemicals off, as they'll soak into the rosewood fairly quickly. Always go slow, adding just a couple of drops at a time. Try to keep conditioners away from the frets and the nut and if possible, keep them away from the inlays too.
Remember that fretboards only need conditioning once or twice a year, at the very most. In fact most fretboards do not need to be conditoned any more than once every year and a half. Some good quality fretboards can stay in good condition for years without needing conditioning. Don't use conditioners on a fretboard unless you're sure it needs them; you can tell when rosewood needs conditioning as it will become a lighter, greyer colour and feel rougher.
Don't be surprised if a freshly-conditioned fretboard feels plasticy, 'sticky' or 'slower'. This usually means you used too much of whatever chemicals or oils you put on, though sometimes even just a tiny amount of lemon oil can leave a rosewood fretboard feeling almost like a gloss-finished maple board. it really depends on what kind of rosewood has been used. Point is, don't worry about it too much, though perhaps try using less oil next time.

Last but not least, if you're not sure, leave it alone. No guitar has ever fallen apart because the fretboard wasn't given conditioner. No guitar will make your playing worse just because the finish hasn't been polished and buffed. Guitars can be damaged by over-conditioning. There are guitars from the 50s that have never been cleaned or conditioned yet they play better than anything made today. If you're not sure if a particular chemical should go on a particular part of your guitar, don't put it on there. If you're not sure if a brush is good enough, don't use it. If you're not sure if your fretboard needs conditioning, don't condition it.
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#12
As to the CL listing... like the others said: No mention of the item by name, its BS.

BUT, the last guitar I traded for (originally was a sale), the buyer said he was coming up from... get this... Costa Rica. **Alarm bells going off** He assures me that he isn't a Lybian prince wanting to send me a cashiers check. We agreed that if its still available when he arrived, we will talk. Sure enough... a month later he arrives and we make deal to trade instead of sell. My Michael Kelly Patriot Q for his 1979 Ovation Glen Campbell Artist (wonderful acoustic BTW).

So... while most may be BS, there are the RARE few that are real.
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#13
Quote by Count Orlok
Yeah, that ad is total BS. You can trust me on that one.


this guy is a professional. you can trust me on this one.
#14
On my Gibsons I use Gibson pump polish to clean the finish and then 100% carnauba wax to protect it. I've tried gerlitz guitar honey on my rosewood fretboards. It works well.
#15
As for the CL thing we don't have it in Australia but we do have Gumtree which is pretty similar. There are tons of scammers that do a very similar thing to what you said. I have my Skyline on sale and I frequently get these emails that go something like this:

"Hi I am really interested in your car. I would like to take it as soon as possible. I currently work on a offshore petroleum rig and can't be there in person to pick it up but would like it as a holiday car. Please send me your paypal details and I will arrange someone to pick up the car."

And they vary from oil rig to petroleum rig to archaeologists in Antartica and so on. Beware the scammer!!!
#16
Quote by MrFlibble
Lemon oil is a conditioner, it's not for cleaning (although most people do clean and conditioner their fretboards at the same time; it makes sense to do them both while the strings are off anyway).

To clean a guitar - any guitar - the only thing you should be using is a dry, clean, microfibre cloth. These can be bought very cheaply from any opticians or photography store; automotive stores also sell them, though theirs tend to be needlessly big and a little overpriced. Do not use any other kind of cloth; microfibre cloths are the best thing to use for cleaning and they're so cheap there is absolutely no reason to use anything less.
Once you take the strings off, keep the guitar flat (tune-o-matic bridges tend to fall off their posts if the strings aren't on), take out a new cloth and wipe the guitar down without using much pressure or force. Use soft, circular motions. Never scrub at anything. For areas like the bridge itself you should just wipe the cloth along the outside. To get rid of any dust or dirt in the smaller cracks, use a soft camera lens brush (sometimes called puffer brushes). A Hama Pneu 55 brush is cheap and will do the job. Do not use a paintbrush, toothbrush or any other similar device; these may leave scratches.
If you find some grime or other mark has stuck on so much that a few passes with the cloth or brush don't shift it, just keep going over it. Again, do not scrub at it. Do not use any chemicals or liquids.

Once you've got the dust and other marks shifted, there's a few polishing products you can use. Personally, I like the Dunlop polishing products for poly-finished guitars and Gibson's products for guitars with nitro finishes. Both companies print clear instructions on their bottles. It's worth mentioning though that you should keep all finish/hardware/string polishes away from exposed wood (i.e. the fretboard) and you should keep all fretboard conditioners away from the rest of the fretboard. Nothing should ever go near the nut.
When conditioning your fretboard, remember that you can always add more later but you can't really take any chemicals off, as they'll soak into the rosewood fairly quickly. Always go slow, adding just a couple of drops at a time. Try to keep conditioners away from the frets and the nut and if possible, keep them away from the inlays too.
Remember that fretboards only need conditioning once or twice a year, at the very most. In fact most fretboards do not need to be conditoned any more than once every year and a half. Some good quality fretboards can stay in good condition for years without needing conditioning. Don't use conditioners on a fretboard unless you're sure it needs them; you can tell when rosewood needs conditioning as it will become a lighter, greyer colour and feel rougher.
Don't be surprised if a freshly-conditioned fretboard feels plasticy, 'sticky' or 'slower'. This usually means you used too much of whatever chemicals or oils you put on, though sometimes even just a tiny amount of lemon oil can leave a rosewood fretboard feeling almost like a gloss-finished maple board. it really depends on what kind of rosewood has been used. Point is, don't worry about it too much, though perhaps try using less oil next time.

Last but not least, if you're not sure, leave it alone. No guitar has ever fallen apart because the fretboard wasn't given conditioner. No guitar will make your playing worse just because the finish hasn't been polished and buffed. Guitars can be damaged by over-conditioning. There are guitars from the 50s that have never been cleaned or conditioned yet they play better than anything made today. If you're not sure if a particular chemical should go on a particular part of your guitar, don't put it on there. If you're not sure if a brush is good enough, don't use it. If you're not sure if your fretboard needs conditioning, don't condition it.

This was extremely helpful, as were most of the replies. Thanks man.
#17
when i post something on craigs list i say something along the lines of "include item for sale in title or will be regarded as spam" or "will not reply via email unless you include a phone number" something like that.

those messages are predominantly bots or something i don't think anybody sits there and copies and pastes them.

also i seem to get them less frequently if i post during daytime hours, however i have better luck selling with a late night listing (3am or so) so that people have a chance to see it in the morning before it is swarmed.
WTLT 2014 GG&A

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