#1
My friend just finished building this guitar:





But when we tune the guitar to standard tuning, both with open strings and 12th fret harmonics, the notes are sharp at all frets.
What do you think may be causing this problem?
Squier "VMC" Stratocaster
PRS SE Singlecut
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Ampeg GVT52-112
#2
either an intonation thing (which sucks because you cant really intonate that bridge..) or the bridge is too close (or far?) from the nut. Re-measure the distance from bridge to nut. If its not your scale length then he'll have to move the neck :/
#3
Quote by michaelbot9000
either an intonation thing (which sucks because you cant really intonate that bridge..) or the bridge is too close (or far?) from the nut. Re-measure the distance from bridge to nut. If its not your scale length then he'll have to move the neck :/

What are the reference points for measurement?
Top, middle or bottom of the nut?
Middle of the 12th fret, or the actual 12th fret (the fretwire)?
Top, middle or bottom of the bridge?


But from a first, quick measurement, it seems that the bridge is too close to the nut.
Squier "VMC" Stratocaster
PRS SE Singlecut
tc electronic polytune
CMAT MODS Signa Drive
Blakemore Effects Deus Ex Machina
DIY gaussmarkov Dr. Boogey
EHX Small Clone
Mooer ShimVerb
DIY Beavis Devolt
T-REX Fuel Tank Chameleon
Ampeg GVT52-112
#4
I would offer advice but you pictures combined with my wife's facebook games have killed my internetz
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#5
Measure from the edge of the nut to the 12th fret, then from the 12th fret to the leading edge of the bridge. Should be same distance when measuring next to the high E string.
thin slice o skin
#6
Intonation. Mesure the distance between the 12th fret and the nut, then double t. what wou'll obtain should be the distance between your bridge and you nut. Reading your post, It's most likely the bridge is too close to the neck.

Here's some information frm the PRS website about how to intonate this type of bridge:
PRS Stoptail Designed to take full advantage of the resonant properties of our guitars, the PRS Stoptail Bridge provides direct transmission of string vibration to the guitar body and makes set-up a breeze. First used in 1991 on the PRS Dragon I guitar it now appears on almost half of all PRS guitars sold. This bridge features slots that recess the strings comfortably as they pass over the top, in a gentle curve. Although it is pre-compensated for modern string gauges, fine-tuning is possible by adjusting the set screws at each end of the bridge. Tuning and Set-up Hints Action height is adjustable by raising or lowering the studs that the bridge sits on. To adjust the mounting studs, first detune the instrument to relieve all possible string tension on the bridge. Next, using a Quarter, perform the necessary height adjustments to the bridge. Then, retune the guitar. Bear in mind that the brass studs are a soft metal that could be prone to marring if adjustments are made too forcefully. Intonation can be adjusted using the two allen set screws facing the tail end of the guitar. A strobe tuner or other electronic tuning device should be used. Match the octave (fretted) note of the first and sixth strings with their corresponding 12th fret open harmonics by shortening or lengthening the strings with the adjusting screws using the allen wrench provided. Start with the treble side and then go to the bass side, return to the treble side for one last check. The other four strings are present and will intonate correctly provided a conventionally gauged string set with a plain third (G) string is used. Use of a wound third string is not recommended with this bridge. When setting the action at the 12th fret the string height should be 2/32" on the treble side to 5/64" on the bass side. Remember to tune and retune until the process is complete.


Its for the PRS stoptail, wich looks like your own bridge.
http://www.prsguitars.com/csc/bridges.html
#7
Quote by Linkerman
What are the reference points for measurement?
Top, middle or bottom of the nut?
Middle of the 12th fret, or the actual 12th fret (the fretwire)?
Top, middle or bottom of the bridge?


But from a first, quick measurement, it seems that the bridge is too close to the nut.



probably already been mentioned in the posts above this, but:

measure from inside edge of nut to middle of the 12th fretwire. This should be 1/2 your scale length. If it is not, the neck was made wrong.

measure from the inside edge of nut to the inside edge of bridge (where the strings meet the edge). this should be your scale length. If it is not then the neck or bridge were positioned wrong.

either way, the 12th fret is half way between the nut and the bridge so make sure the two halves are the same size
#8
Right now, all the measurements are absolutely correct.
The guitar is tuned to standard (both open string and 12th fret harmonics).

It's still too sharp when fretting.

The action is 4mm at the 1st fret, 6mm at the 12th fret.
Can this high action be the problem?
Squier "VMC" Stratocaster
PRS SE Singlecut
tc electronic polytune
CMAT MODS Signa Drive
Blakemore Effects Deus Ex Machina
DIY gaussmarkov Dr. Boogey
EHX Small Clone
Mooer ShimVerb
DIY Beavis Devolt
T-REX Fuel Tank Chameleon
Ampeg GVT52-112
#10
If it's sharp then you want to move the bridge back. If your measurements from the nut were exact but you have a zero fret then your measurements are technically wrong. As mintsauce says, the presence of a zero fret means that is where you should be starting from. Putting that all together I'm going to bet your bridge should be moved back a bit. Looks like you have enough room on the intonation screws to make the adjustments.
#11
Quote by -MintSauce-
Measure from the zero fret to your bridge, and make sure that the zero fret is touching the strings. You shouldn't be measuring from the nut if you've got a zero fret.

Thank you very much! Problem solved!
As soon as we lowered the nut and the strings to touch the zero fret, everything was perfect.

We didn't know that the strings had to be touching the zero fret. Actually, i've never seen a zero fret before, it was a surprise to me. But my friend said that he followed 100% the plan he downloaded, shown the plan to me, and it had a zero fret indeed.

Quote by inkandlead
If it's sharp then you want to move the bridge back. If your measurements from the nut were exact but you have a zero fret then your measurements are technically wrong. As mintsauce says, the presence of a zero fret means that is where you should be starting from. Putting that all together I'm going to bet your bridge should be moved back a bit. Looks like you have enough room on the intonation screws to make the adjustments.

Nope, everything was in its right place (nut, bridge, frets) and the measurements were correct.
It was that damn 4mm action!


Thank you all very much for your time and advice!
Squier "VMC" Stratocaster
PRS SE Singlecut
tc electronic polytune
CMAT MODS Signa Drive
Blakemore Effects Deus Ex Machina
DIY gaussmarkov Dr. Boogey
EHX Small Clone
Mooer ShimVerb
DIY Beavis Devolt
T-REX Fuel Tank Chameleon
Ampeg GVT52-112
#13
Quote by Linkerman
Thank you very much! Problem solved!
As soon as we lowered the nut and the strings to touch the zero fret, everything was perfect.

We didn't know that the strings had to be touching the zero fret. Actually, i've never seen a zero fret before, it was a surprise to me. But my friend said that he followed 100% the plan he downloaded, shown the plan to me, and it had a zero fret indeed.