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#1
Hey everyone, I'm sure some of you are used to my Cigar box guitar build threads by now, but now I'm going back to full size guitars. Hope I can handle it

This build is one of my custom designs and will have a swamp ash body and set maple neck. The scale will be 25.75 with 22 frets and a 12" fret board radius. My original plan was to do an all white guitar with a natural flamed maple (bound in white) fret board, white GFS (keepin costs down) power rails, and chrome hardware for a classy look. After I finish typing this I'm gonna go mess with some color dyes on some scrap ash and see if I like any of those instead(ill post them samples later tonight to get your opinions as well). Well... I guess that's it for now, here a few starter pics for ya.

Template


Wood...


Thicknessing the body down about 1/4 inch


Body rough cut with no sanding yet


More to come soon!

-Tyler
#2
I messed with the dyes tonight but nothing worth showing came out of it. I was going for a look similar to this:

Except using either red or blue but the color didn't hold in the grain after sanding back the way I had hoped, so this builds gonna be a nice clean white.

I did manage to get a few templates made tonight though so I guess I'll show those since its all I got

Electronics cavity template


Humbucker template




and fitting the Power Rails
#3
Your thumb looks deformed.....

I shall be watching this mutant thumb man =D
My gear:
Yamaha f335 acoustic
Ibanezs ex 270
2003 mim strat
peavey xxl head through Marshall cab
Tama rockstar drum kit
#6
Time to update!

Laminated maple neck being glued up



I found this 1/4 inch maple at Lowes. It has a nice flame to it so I'm going to be using it for my fretboard. Can any one tell me how to pop the grain while retaining a semi natural maple color? I'm not sure what color dye to use


Threw in some bevels for comfort.






#8


you need one :p
Epiphone Les Paul Plus Top
Jet City JCA5212RC (SLO Modded)
Ibanez WD7 Wah
Mad Professor Sweet Honey Overdrive
TC Electronic Flashback Triple Delay
TC Electronic Trinity Reverb
#9
This is looking great, you do some clean work.

As for the question about popping the flame without coloring, you don't have to dye maple to really pop, just make sure you finish it. I have had flame pop with tru-oil, and obviously lacquers will do the job.

As for that finish on that Hufsmchid (sp?) guitar you were looking at, I am pretty sure it is a torched finish. At least that is what it looks like. I would recommend trying that out, because torched swamp ash is just awesome.

As I am not sure if I am allowed to link to another forum, send me a PM and I will send you a link to a guy who has a thread that is a great outline for that torched look.
#10
The reason I asked about the stain is because I remember a youtube video(That I can no longer find) where a guy popped the grain on an already beautiful piece of quilted maple and made it absolutely stunning but it still looked natural. I want to say he used a amber to darken the low spots and then sanded back but I cant recall for sure.

PM sent!
#13
Quote by \m/slipknot\m/
The reason I asked about the stain is because I remember a youtube video(That I can no longer find) where a guy popped the grain on an already beautiful piece of quilted maple and made it absolutely stunning but it still looked natural. I want to say he used a amber to darken the low spots and then sanded back but I cant recall for sure.

PM sent!

he used amber, sanded back, then some other vintage-esque tint, sanded back alittle, then clear coated.

i think it was a prs guy.

edit: nvm, that was a different video i wash thinking of. the one i'm thinking about the stainer used: cherry, sanded back, then some kind of amber.
Last edited by Ashe_Mc at Feb 24, 2012,
#15
if you don't have an amber stain on hand, just use superglue as a porefiller/base. Brings the grain out like crazy!
Just call me Julius, J, etc.
Taking an Internet break for a while, will come on when I can.
#17
Here's some progress:
scarf joint jig


gluing the joint


fret board marked and cut




truss channel and hotrod



Some one suggested staining the figured fret board blue to go with the white and chrome scheme and this caught my interest. What do you guys think? Should I stick with a natural maple color or do a blue and if so what kind of blue(light, dark, fade)?
#18
Quote by \m/slipknot\m/
::Now totally self conscious about my thumb:: I shall hide it in shame in all up coming pics

lol



Feel lucky, I have a hitch hikers thumb thats so bad that when I give a thumbs up people think im giving a thumbs down. Seriously though I cant play classical hand position cause of it.


There is a lot of good builds going on right now. Ill have to ad this to my list of builds to watch.
#19
I got the cavity cover done tonight!



Staying away from screws for a nice clean look


Magnets! 1/16" x 1/8"





For some one who would be traveling a lot or playing gigs I would use stronger magnets but for the average at home player this if more then enough. Unless your literally throwing the guitar around the cover wont come off.
#21
Magnets for the control cavity cover is a great idea. Where can I buy them? Thanks.
#22
http://apexmagnets.com/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=2

They have disc magnets of all shapes and sizes. May i suggest the 6" x 2" at the bottom of that page. It has a pulling force of close to 1200lbs and is only $800! I thought the warnings were kinda ridiculous:

***WARNING*** This is an EXTREMELY Powerful Magnet! The end user MUST USE SAFETY PRECAUTIONS when unpacking and using this magnet. Remove all metal objects within a 5 foot radius before unpacking. Magnets of this size and strength can pull metals objects to them when brought too close. Two magnets of this size will fly together with great force and can break bones.
#23
In all seriousness, Leevalley has rare earth magnets god for this, and like 20 cents a peice.
Just call me Julius, J, etc.
Taking an Internet break for a while, will come on when I can.
#24
Nice find nowa, apex has them in sets of 30( 1/4" x 1/16") for like 9 bucks which comes to roughly 30 cents a piece but lee valley is like 23 cents each if you order 50 or more, so you'll save a little cash. Apex did have really fast shipping for only like $4, I have no experience with lee valley so I don't know there shipping rates or speed but its nice to have options.
#25
Lee valley charges by price, so like 60-120$ worth is 9$, and over 150 is 10.50 or something, and it gets to me in 3 days, every time. They also drop it off at teh door even when we arent here
Just call me Julius, J, etc.
Taking an Internet break for a while, will come on when I can.
#28
The coloration on that maple board is pretty nice. The headstock looks cool, its like First Act meets Schecter
#30
Wasn't diggin the headstock at first, but it looks really good with the whole guitar.

Very nice!
#31
I got a decent amount done today!

Tuner holes drilled and my "R" cut



Carving the neck




Tone/vol/ switch/ jack holes drilled



Here's a tip for any newer builders who might need it: My template for the neck pocket was not as snug as I wanted it so rather then making a new one, a strip of tape on each side gave me just enough extra material for an ideal fit.

#33
Quote by \m/slipknot\m/
Fits nicely


This thing has a really good feel to it, its very comfortable in a playing position



How well does that stringless G chord ring out? lol

Looking really nice so far, what material are you going to use for the inlay on the headstock?
#34
Lol, not gonna lie I played through a whole song with out the strings

I'm actually planning to leave the "R" cavity open. It will get coated with the white paint and clear and kind of look like it was just pressed in to the headstock. Just trying something different, ya know.
#35
Looking good man! So is that a no on the crazy blue fretboard?
*insert witty statement here*
#36
Awesome work, I am interested to see what you do with the tenon in the pickup route, as I was going to take care of it before I glued the neck in, but would much rather glue it in and then deal with it.

If this makes sense, how much space (lengthwise) did you put between the edge of the pickup and the end of your fretboard. I was thinking that I would do 3/16" or 1/8".
#37
Quote by metalhead352
Looking good man! So is that a no on the crazy blue fretboard?

Yeah I decided to save the blue for another build and keep this one simple. I am planning to mess with colored fret boards in the future, if done right it could look really nice.

Quote by rapfohl09
Awesome work, I am interested to see what you do with the tenon in the pickup route, as I was going to take care of it before I glued the neck in, but would much rather glue it in and then deal with it.

If this makes sense, how much space (lengthwise) did you put between the edge of the pickup and the end of your fretboard. I was thinking that I would do 3/16" or 1/8".


To get the neck pup cavity back I set up a guide and clamped it tight then ran a router through to get it to the right depth.


There is about 1/4" between the fret board and the edge of the cavity. Then the pup ring will cut that space in half leaving about 1/8" showing. Part of the tenon was above the surface but not in the routing area so I just used a chisel to level it.


all glued up



and a rough heel carve
#39
Very cool. that is what I was thinking about doing, good to see someone else do it first!
#40
Hey guys I put some of the hardware on to get an idea of how it is going to look. I'm not sure if I'm feeling the rail pickups but maybe I'll like the them better once the body is painted white to match. I'd like to hear your thoughts on them too so let me know what you think!









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