#1
I just bought a new Ibanez and i have had it set up. The action is incredibly low and there are no dead notes/buzz at all... EXCEPT for the first fret on the high E string that doesnt ring out at all. If i had to judge by the sound it makes i would say the string is getting caught on the second fret. I tried raising the action a lot and the issue, although it got a little bit better, never went away.

I am afraid the first fret might be lower than the others, in this case is there anything that can be done to fix the problem?

Thanks.
#4
yes and before you even bother, slip a bit of paper under the string, in the cut of the nut and see if that helps first.
Jenneh

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#5
You may need to level your frets, not a complete refret.
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#6
Sounds like the 1st is uneven. I would check to see if the 2nd fret is in fact too high first. Thats the better case scenario, in that it can be easily filed down a bit to resolve the problem. But of the 1st really is too low, you will need to have the all the frets leveled.
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#7
this is why you slip a bit of paper under the string, in the cut of the nut first.

you check if the nut cut is low.

then you check the first fret height, by fretting between the 2 and 3rd fret,
and seeing if the string touches the 1st fret when you do.

talking about refrets, and leveling frets, makes no sense until
you do the other things.
Jenneh

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#8
Are we talking about open strings or the first fret itself here?
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#9
The open string doesnt have any problem, as well as fret 2-24.

Also, my guitar has a locking nut so i dont understand where i am supposed to put the piece of paper. I just tried fretting between the second and third fret (if i understood correctly you meant i have to fret the G note) and the string does not touch the first fret while doing so.

By looking at it it seems the first fret is a bit lower on the treble side, i will try to upload a pic to get some feedback.
#11
my high e played open made tons of buzz. brought it to the tech at GC. he said to change the stirings, i did. same strings out of same box of ten sets of 11's. went away. sometimes it could be something so small. the strings were beyond their lifespan on the guitar before though. put paper in between the nut and the string and see if it stops buzzing.

my guess is nut cut too deep.
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#12
Quote by tappooh
The open string doesnt have any problem, as well as fret 2-24.

Also, my guitar has a locking nut so i dont understand where i am supposed to put the piece of paper. I just tried fretting between the second and third fret (if i understood correctly you meant i have to fret the G note) and the string does not touch the first fret while doing so.

By looking at it it seems the first fret is a bit lower on the treble side, i will try to upload a pic to get some feedback.



oh ok, yeah with a locking fret much harder to identify if it's a nut or a fret issue.

if the locking nut sits too low, then it would require a shim under it to clear the fret.

but you measured and found that the string does NOT rest on the first fret,
when fretting between the 2nd and 3rd.


so my suggestion to you, is

1. make sure the string doesnt have a kink in it.

2. check that neck's relief, make sure there's enough,
to eliminate the chance that the guitar is back bowed.
(how to do that, click green link in my sig. look at forst post)

3. check the intonation at the 1st and second fret.
if they match, there's a greater chance of a crooked fret.

and if you feel that's the case, after checking,
then just get that one fret redressed.
it's not expensive, and should resolve the issue.
Jenneh

Quote by TNfootballfan62
Jenny needs to sow her wild oats with random Gibsons and Taylors she picks up in bars before she settles down with a PRS.


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#13
Quote by jj1565
oh ok, yeah with a locking fret much harder to identify if it's a nut or a fret issue.

if the locking nut sits too low, then it would require a shim under it to clear the fret.

but you measured and found that the string does NOT rest on the first fret,
when fretting between the 2nd and 3rd.


so my suggestion to you, is

1. make sure the string doesnt have a kink in it.

2. check that neck's relief, make sure there's enough,
to eliminate the chance that the guitar is back bowed.
(how to do that, click green link in my sig. look at forst post)

3. check the intonation at the 1st and second fret.
if they match, there's a greater chance of a crooked fret.

and if you feel that's the case, after checking,
then just get that one fret redressed.
it's not expensive, and should resolve the issue.

Hey, i followed your guide and i tried to check the neck relief by pressing fret 1 and 19 on the low E. The string touches every fret (1-19). I also checked other another RG with locking nut and the low E also touches several frets but there is nearly no buzz at all.

Does the action change if i turn the truss rod? Im really satisfied with the current action, it really bothers me that there is just a single fret not ringing out...
#14
Quote by tappooh
Hey, i followed your guide and i tried to check the neck relief by pressing fret 1 and 19 on the low E. The string touches every fret (1-19). I also checked other another RG with locking nut and the low E also touches several frets but there is nearly no buzz at all.

Does the action change if i turn the truss rod? Im really satisfied with the current action, it really bothers me that there is just a single fret not ringing out...



you're guitar is a little back bowed.

you need to add a little relief.

turn the truss rod 1/4 turn counter clockwise.
dont force the turn and let it settle in tune.

feel free to measure again, and check playability,
but dont adjust it any more than that without posting back here.

*also, dont compare your guitar to other guitars.
it's not that your guitar is pin straight.
it's actually bowing backwards.

i'm shocked that you didnt pick up even more buzz / dead frets,
than you did.

it will change how the guitar plays,
but shouldnt change the action nearly as
much as messing with the bridge did.

also, all adjustments are reversible.
which is why we go over this, step by step.

edit:
just an FYI,
if the guitar played correctly before the setup,
then there's a much greater chance that
creating a little relief, will resolve the issue.

if it doesnt, and you cant seem to intonate the
guitar either, then i suggest you let them
pull, level, or redress that fret.
Jenneh

Quote by TNfootballfan62
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Last edited by jj1565 at Feb 20, 2012,
#15
Quote by jj1565
you're guitar is a little back bowed.

you need to add a little relief.

turn the truss rod 1/4 turn counter clockwise.
dont force the turn and let it settle in tune.

feel free to measure again, and check playability,
but dont adjust it any more than that without posting back here.

*also, dont compare your guitar to other guitars.
it's not that your guitar is pin straight.
it's actually bowing backwards.

i'm shocked that you didnt pick up even more buzz / dead frets,
than you did.

it will change how the guitar plays,
but shouldnt change the action nearly as
much as messing with the bridge did.

also, all adjustments are reversible.
which is why we go over this, step by step.

edit:
just an FYI,
if the guitar played correctly before the setup,
then there's a much greater chance that
creating a little relief, will resolve the issue.

if it doesnt, and you cant seem to intonate the
guitar either, then i suggest you let them
pull, level, or redress that fret.

Something i have been wondering on for a long time. You said to press fret 1 and 19 and see if there is any room between the low E and the frets in 7-9 range. Wouldnt the string height in 7-9 frets range be different depending on the bridge height? Wouldnt there be more room if i raised the bridge?

Sounds like a stupid question but i need to understand before i do any adjustments.
#16
Quote by tappooh
Something i have been wondering on for a long time. You said to press fret 1 and 19 and see if there is any room between the low E and the frets in 7-9 range. Wouldnt the string height in 7-9 frets range be different depending on the bridge height? Wouldnt there be more room if i raised the bridge?

Sounds like a stupid question but i need to understand before i do any adjustments.



the bridge height And the nut height are completely taken out of the equation,
when the string is fret at the 1st and 19th at the same time.

all you are doing when you fret the string, is creating a perfectly straight line.

and then comparing that line (the string) to the fretboard.

if the fretboard was banana shaped, you would notice a lot of gap at the middle frets.

if the board had a wee bit of relief, you would see that the string is a hair up from the top of the fret wire there.

if the board (neck) is bowing slightly backwards, then the string will lay flat on the
middle and in your case, all frets along the board.

you want the neck to be pin straight, or slightly bowed.

some guitars can function with a pin straight neck.
some need a hair to a thin picks worth of gap.

and some lesser quality guitars (or acoustics, or slide guitars, ect...) need as much as a credit card's thickness in gap
to be able to play buzz free.
Jenneh

Quote by TNfootballfan62
Jenny needs to sow her wild oats with random Gibsons and Taylors she picks up in bars before she settles down with a PRS.


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#17
Quote by jj1565
the bridge height And the nut height are completely taken out of the equation,
when the string is fret at the 1st and 19th at the same time.

all you are doing when you fret the string, is creating a perfectly straight line.

and then comparing that line (the string) to the fretboard.

if the fretboard was banana shaped, you would notice a lot of gap at the middle frets.

if the board had a wee bit of relief, you would see that the string is a hair up from the top of the fret wire there.

if the board (neck) is bowing slightly backwards, then the string will lay flat on the
middle and in your case, all frets along the board.

you want the neck to be pin straight, or slightly bowed.

some guitars can function with a pin straight neck.
some need a hair to a thin picks worth of gap.

and some lesser quality guitars (or acoustics, or slide guitars, ect...) need as much as a credit card's thickness in gap
to be able to play buzz free.

Ok im going to give it a try. After i make the adjustment how long does it take for the neck to adapt? Would it be a problem if i keep the guitar hanging off the wall like in the picture above?
#18
Quote by tappooh
Ok im going to give it a try. After i make the adjustment how long does it take for the neck to adapt? Would it be a problem if i keep the guitar hanging off the wall like in the picture above?



just adjust and check how it plays.

the resting period is really waiting between adjustments.

how you store it isnt going to effect anything.
Jenneh

Quote by TNfootballfan62
Jenny needs to sow her wild oats with random Gibsons and Taylors she picks up in bars before she settles down with a PRS.


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#19
Ok so i adjusted the truss rod about an hour ago, about 1/4 turn counter clock wise like you said and tuned to pitch. I tried playing it now and its a lot better now - even though it seems the action went up a little the F note is now ringing but there is still some buzz left. The amp barely picks it up but you can hear it. I tried pressing fret 1 and 19 and now there is a VERY SMALL amount of space between the low E and the strings, lets say half a millimeter. Im going to leave the guitar as it is for another 10-12 hours and then check again if anything changes.
#20
Quote by tappooh
Ok so i adjusted the truss rod about an hour ago, about 1/4 turn counter clock wise like you said and tuned to pitch. I tried playing it now and its a lot better now - even though it seems the action went up a little the F note is now ringing but there is still some buzz left. The amp barely picks it up but you can hear it. I tried pressing fret 1 and 19 and now there is a VERY SMALL amount of space between the low E and the strings, lets say half a millimeter. Im going to leave the guitar as it is for another 10-12 hours and then check again if anything changes.



ok, you can always add a little more relief, see if the buzz goes away, and
THEN adjust for lower action at the bridge.

worst case, you know how to do this now, and can wait, and then go back to how it
is now.
Jenneh

Quote by TNfootballfan62
Jenny needs to sow her wild oats with random Gibsons and Taylors she picks up in bars before she settles down with a PRS.


Set up Questions? ...Q & A Thread

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#21
Quote by jj1565
ok, you can always add a little more relief, see if the buzz goes away, and
THEN adjust for lower action at the bridge.

worst case, you know how to do this now, and can wait, and then go back to how it
is now.

I thought i would report here the results in case someone has the same issue.

I made a couple more SMALL (less than a quarter turn) adjustments on the truss rod and then tried to adjust the height on the bridge. The buzz is now 95% gone, the action is very low and the frets intonate well. I will try to tweak it once more just because im really picky but im very satisfied with the outcome.

Thanks for your time explaining the neck relief. Thank God there are still some kind and helpful people out there, unlike the "tech guy" at the local store which i have good reason to believe he is a crack addict and i would never hand a guitar to him LOL!
#22
! excellent

enjoy and rock out.
Jenneh

Quote by TNfootballfan62
Jenny needs to sow her wild oats with random Gibsons and Taylors she picks up in bars before she settles down with a PRS.


Set up Questions? ...Q & A Thread

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