#1
Don't know if this is the right kind of question here, but here goes. I have a cheap acoustic I bought new around 2006. Unfortunately, it had some green wood and a short warranty. The bridge more or less curled away from the body and was slowly separating. It had some buzzing and when I took it to the shop, they pretty much dismissed it as "beyond economical repair". Well, I only paid $180 for it, but they figured it needed a new bridge and it would cost more than a replacement to make a new one. Last week I finally got around to buying a better one that doesn't buzz, cost a bit more, and has a bridge solidly attached to the body. Oh, and it has a better warranty.

So, I finally took stock and determined that the old one is playable, sounds halfway decent, and other than the bridge that's gradually separating, is not junk to me if I can make some repair to it and still have it be playable. Throwing caution to the winds and armed with a book on guitar repair, I coaxed the bridge off, and straightened it out. Here's the rub: The sound box has actually bulged out slightly, so even though the bridge is flat, it doesn't quite sit flat. I figure if it's beyond all hope, it's no great loss. The X-frame is still glued to the inside, so i don't know why the area around the bridge seems to have bulged out. I soaked the wood and I have some weights trying to coax it back into shape, but does anyone have any tips?
#2
depending on how bad the bulge is you might be able to fix the action by sanding down your saddle.

if after sanding it down as far as you can, it's still too high, you can take a router tool or a file and make some channels in your bridge which will allow the saddle to be lowered a little more

example: http://i41.tinypic.com/2hyjddy.jpg


if the bulge is still keeping the action up, your best bet is to hyper-humidify the guitar and try to slowly press the bulge back down. if you have a hard case and a couple magazines just put the magazines stacked on top of the bulge so that when closed the case pushes down on it with some constant pressure. this is what i was told when i had a similar problem, anyways...it didn't actually work for me but i didn't give it long before i just went ahead and routed out the bridge.
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#3
Thanks Mike, but high action wasn't the problem I was having. If anything, the action was low because the bridge was slowly curling toward the neck, and the saddle was correspondingly getting lower. Between some water, weights, and a heating pad I've got the sound box flat again, and the bridge is straight. I'm just trying to figure out if it's going to do the same thing if I glue it back together. I figure the difference this time is I can do a better glue job on the bridge and make sure the bridge isn't warped, since it appears the bridge didn't have much glue to start with. Could very well be the sound box was just a lousy piece of wood to begin with and no amount of regluing the bridge will fix it.