#1
Hello!

I am thinking that I could invest in a 4X10 cab, that I could use now, but it will be mainly projected to the future.

My idea is the following: actually, I have a Fender amp that handles 160 watts at 4 ohms, but comes in combo with an 8 ohm 15" speaker. if I plug a second 8 ohm cab to it, i'll get the full 160 watts from it. my idea is to get a good, unexpensive 4X10 cab to do so. STILL, I want this cab to be usable in the future, when I might get another head (250 to 500 watts at 4 ohm, so the cab should have at least 300 watts power handling, i guess).

this way, i kinda "improve" my actual amp, and i get something that i'll need if i change/get another amp. also, I'd like to experiment a 4X10 cab.


My main reason to do this is beacuse I can count with the money rigth now, and the cab is the only thing that i can invest and use now, but still get to use in the long term.

I've been looking at hartke's VX series (because I don't think aluminum cones are a good idea rigth now, so i'd stay away from XL series) because thay are paper coned, has 400 watts in 8 ohms, and are unexpensive.

there's also :
- peavey tvx
- marshall mbc

It seems that there aren't too many here, though I have to check local shops yet. this is mainly internet offers.


So: what would you recommend?
Is this a good idea?
Should i be looking at other cabs(please say which ones, i'll try to check if they're available)?
any other advice will be appreciated. thanks!
Quote by FatalGear41
When you break a bass string, that snapping sound is the sound of six dollars going down the crapper.



Sterling Ray 35
Hartke Ha3500 head - Gallien Krueger 212MBE cab
Tech 21 VT Bass
Zoom b2
#2
I don't belive this, but ¡Bump!
Quote by FatalGear41
When you break a bass string, that snapping sound is the sound of six dollars going down the crapper.



Sterling Ray 35
Hartke Ha3500 head - Gallien Krueger 212MBE cab
Tech 21 VT Bass
Zoom b2
#3
I can definitely recommend avoiding the Marshall MB stuff, I find it thin, glassy, and noisy. Not entirely sure whether that was the amp or the cab, as I've only used them together, but not a good sign.

I've used a Hartke stack before combo before. I don't know a great deal about Hartke stuff, so I don't know what it was called, but it was provided backline at a venue so I would suspect it was from one of their cheaper ranges... it was a 2x10, but I was actually really impressed by it. Sounded quite nice and had a lot more clarity (without being harsh) than many amps.

Peavey stuff is usually good. I don't have any direct expience with that particular cab, but I'm sure it will be well made and reliable one way or the other.
#4
I'd advise you to choose any cab on the basis of how it sounds first of all. We all have different tastes so you have to make that choice yourself, however i would advise against a 4x10 unless there is one you really like.

The reason is that with modern technology they are unnecessary. A good 2x10 or 2x12 will match the sound levels of even the heaviest drummer and that is the thing you need to match. If you need to be louder than that the drums will have to be miked anyway and so you can go the PA. There is never a good reason to be louder than the drummer.

Why carry around and pay for twice the number of speakers. Spend the same money on a 2x10 and the drivers will be better quality your cab will be lighter and you will have a better sound. If you need any extra power then buy a second 2x10 stack them vertically and get much better directional control of your sound.
#5
Sounds like a Fender M-80.
A nice, punchy transistor amp, built like a tank, and a name like a tank.
Rated 80W@8ohms, 160W@4ohms.

Just keep in mind that the harder you drive an amp (the more drivers you have to feed), the earlier the amps' output will start clipping, thus reducing the amount of "useful output power" your amp can effectively put out at lower impedence, translating to, eventually, less volume.

That's why speaker efficiency has also to be taken in account. The less efficient a speaker, the more electrical power it takes to drive a speaker at a same level as a more efficient one.

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From the cradle to the grave.
#6
I have a VX410 and, while it sounds REALLY good for the price, it's not very loud (low efficiency I guess). So just take that into consideration.

Having said that, I don't know how loud it is compared to other similarly priced 410s, I can just comment on mine.

EDIT: also, yeah, stay away from the Marshal MB series.
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#7
well, as far as 2X10 cabs, I found the ampeg SVT 210av which is 200 watts (that may be too little) in 8 ohms.
I also found SWR working pro 210, but it's kinda out of my price range.

And i can add a 4X10 fender rumble cab as another option.

I wouldn't mind a 2X10, but it seems that I haven't got too many options, and they have less watts tollerance than i need. and the ones that have, are way too expensive.

As far as the speakers efficiency, I know that with my budget I can't expect for the best cab. I don't intend to get my hands on a pro cab, just another to be able to use now, and foremost to use in the future, when i get to buy a head. so basically, i need to know what are the best cabs available in the hartke VX410 price range.

I would like to get a 2X10, but i need it to have at least 250 power handling at 8 ohms. and it can't go high end price.


any help will be appreciated. thanks for the replies so far!!
Quote by FatalGear41
When you break a bass string, that snapping sound is the sound of six dollars going down the crapper.



Sterling Ray 35
Hartke Ha3500 head - Gallien Krueger 212MBE cab
Tech 21 VT Bass
Zoom b2
#8
I can't recommend based on experience (not until Friday anyways), but Carvin has some good-priced cabs, like the one I bought, the BR210 4ohms/400 watts, which I got used for about $150. They have an identical 8ohm model that goes for the same price, which is about $280 new.
Last edited by edgeyyz at Feb 27, 2012,
#9
yeah, but carvin is not availabe here, or is highly overpriced
Quote by FatalGear41
When you break a bass string, that snapping sound is the sound of six dollars going down the crapper.



Sterling Ray 35
Hartke Ha3500 head - Gallien Krueger 212MBE cab
Tech 21 VT Bass
Zoom b2
#10
Can you get any TC electronics bass cabs? They have some nice 2x10 and 2x12 cabs that are prretty inexpensive ( atleat in the US)

And the Fender Rumble 4x10 is a 4 ohm cab, so you would have to disconect th internal 15" speaker to safely use it with your M-80.

If you can get you hands on a Hartke AK 4x10 cab those are really nice they are soposedly Ampeg SVT cab clones.
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#11
Quote by Robbgnarly
Can you get any TC electronics bass cabs? They have some nice 2x10 and 2x12 cabs that are prretty inexpensive ( atleat in the US)

And the Fender Rumble 4x10 is a 4 ohm cab, so you would have to disconect th internal 15" speaker to safely use it with your M-80.

If you can get you hands on a Hartke AK 4x10 cab those are really nice they are soposedly Ampeg SVT cab clones.

yeah, hartke's AK cabs has an extra 100 watts, to make 500 watt power habdling, but they are like 1/3 mor expensive, and I think that might be too much... even though I'll consider it.

and no, no tc electronics around
Quote by FatalGear41
When you break a bass string, that snapping sound is the sound of six dollars going down the crapper.



Sterling Ray 35
Hartke Ha3500 head - Gallien Krueger 212MBE cab
Tech 21 VT Bass
Zoom b2
Last edited by Sudaka at Mar 1, 2012,
#12
buy something used, you can't get a better SPL per dollar than buying something used. Peavey is a good brand that is incredibly durable, GK and Hartke also put out some good stuff. Whatever it is you buy, play through it first. I wouldn't worry about most "power handling" specs, they're mostly bunk - they're using thermal wattage limits to define low end output - you'll run out of useable xmax long before then.
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